If autumn is a picturesque chapter, then late autumn is the most beautiful page. Autumn in Jiangnan is very short, only more than two months in full, and late autumn is only more than 20 days of it. "Thousands of miles of rivers and mountains are far away, and the reeds are deep in the lonely boat", in every small corner of light and shadow, if you use dim sum, there will always be some casual encounters. I once tried to walk all over the West Lake in one morning, but there were so many places for me to stop that I often hesitated. I have also been in the morning light through the forest, see each ** has become transparent and gorgeous, with the morning practice of the master, clumsily raise his hands and move his hands, although I did not find the sourness of the dantian, but in the backlight still feel that the years are so quiet.
Since Hangzhou and Shaoxing have been connected to the intercity light rail, there has been no opportunity to try it. Take advantage of the deep autumn colors of the ancient city to take a day trip without self-driving. Shen Garden is the best place to see the autumn colors. It was originally the private garden of a wealthy local merchant during the Southern Song Dynasty, and is famous for the poignant love story between Lu You and Tang Wan. The flowers and trees in the Shen Garden are sparse, the pavilions and water pavilions, the winding paths are secluded, and the visitors are scarce. Sitting under the lonely crane Xuan near the water, a few red maples are dazzling, like a red love, still appealing to the autumn wind of hunting. The red beech tree in front of the Eight Wing Tower is not outdated, like fire, like a heart. More than 800 years have passed, and the small garden is not human, and it has long been impossible to find the traces of Lu You's "a few years of sorrow and separation". There was a family passing under the handsome and tall ginkgo tree, and I seemed to feel that the autumn colors of Shen Garden had added a lot of warmth.
Shaoxing's Fushan, because of its circling and circling, shaped like a Wolong, was once called "Wolong Mountain". Later, because the yamen of the old Shaoxing Prefecture was located at the east foot of the mountain, it was renamed Fushan. Fushan is quiet in the middle of the noise, which is the spiritual totem of the old Shaoxing people and the original hometown of Wuyue culture. I've been here a few times, and in late autumn, when I come back to this mountain, it seems that I am recovering a piece of dusty history. The autumn breeze blows on the road, and you can't meet the tourists who come to climb the mountain. Fallen leaves paved the winding paths, and the majestic winged buildings were deserted. I took a few photos of the yellow leaves flying in front of the attic, overlooking a corner of the city that was barely obscured by the trees. When I went down the mountain, I saw a couple sitting by the ancient city wall, talking and listening to each other as if they were looking back at history. The red maple fluttered beside them, and the picture was very warm.
After coming out of Lu Xun's former residence, he was attracted by the canopy boat in the water alley. The canopy boat is a unique water vehicle in the water town of Shaoxing, named after the black paint of the canopy. It is a geographical business card for visiting Shaoxing. Take a canopy boat and shuttle between the small bridges and flowing water to make a trip to Shaoxing. Along the Baozhu Bridge, Shimen Bridge, Jiuwu Bridge, until the city square, a mountain, a river, an ancient city, a wall, a tile and an old street, listening to the sound of the oars along the way, it seems to have regained the feeling of taking a canopy boat for the first time many years ago. There is a beautiful young lady, who is too late in time to find the feeling of being in the same frame as the canopy boat. Seeing her regretful look, I helped her take a beautiful photo of the side of the canopy boat, and the smile on the photo had already told me about her inner wealth.
Taizhou in the Tang Poetry Road is not only a quiet and desolate place in the distant sea frontier, but also a fascinating Buddhist holy land. This time, I didn't have time to re-walk the ancient road of poetry, so I came to the woods in the city to immerse myself in the experience. The Jialanjing Cultural Corridor stretches along the river, reproducing the scene of poets such as Li Bai, Du Fu, Luo Binwang, and Gu Jing visiting the landscape here. On the "Tang Poetry Road" in autumn colors, there are many plants such as sweetgum, ginkgo, reed, oak and black tree, and statues of poets are erected every few meters, and there are poems and character profiles related to Taizhou next to them. The woods were quiet, the sun dappled on their faces, on the poems carved in stone, and it looked like there was a different kind of quiet beauty.
In the painting of Qiulin Chengguo, thousands of black trees shine in the eyes." When I walked to this section of the Civic Square, under the blue sky, a black tree growing on the edge of the pond had bright leaves that rendered the autumn colors to the extreme. No matter which angle you look at, it is elegant and handsome. Even the stone dolphins lying on the ground opened their mouths and drank the autumn colors. I was overjoyed to see this, and I took many photos in a row.
On the promenade of Poetry Road, I suddenly found that the ginkgo tree, which was very young and thin a few years ago, had grown very markedly. Near the ginkgo biloba is a forest of osmanthus flowers, and when I photographed the ginkgo, I clearly smelled a fragrance. You know, the osmanthus flowers in the south of the Yangtze River generally bloom around the Mid-Autumn Festival, and it is rare that there is such a wonderful fragrance at the turn of autumn and winter!Facing the autumn breeze of the four seasons of osmanthus, quiet and elegant and extraordinary, not with the spring flowers, but quietly blooming several times in late autumn, smelling the cinnamon fragrance to appreciate the ginkgo, the elegant osmanthus and the rich apricot yellow in the same frame, how rare it is!I don't know who made it who made it when osmanthus and ginkgo were togetherZhu Shuzhen, a poet in the Song Dynasty, once said: "The west wind is good at everyone, and it is very autumn to be busy." Under the window of a light storage book, people and flowers are fragrant separately". Roaming on the road of Tang poetry, smelling the fragrance of flowers, reading the masterpieces of big coffees, I feel that I am also like autumn leaves, revealing a fragrance of osmanthus flowers. It's a really beautiful feeling.
Xianghu Lake is my lake of meditation, and it is the place that I walk the most besides West Lake. Xianghu Lake is too big, and in late autumn, I walked relatively more around the embankment. In the morning and evening, the water on the lake is as clear as a mirror, as if it can contain all things. Surrounded by dark mountains, the orange-yellow-orange-red leaves are dotted, and the sky is reflected in the clouds and colorful autumn colors. Walking slowly along the embankment and both banks, walking across the ancient bridges, I saw a few pedestrians wriggling in the lake from a distance. In the air, sometimes small birds or herons and gulls pass by the trees, and they are very happy and relaxed. Above their heads, the plane that was about to return to Xiaoshan Airport in a few minutes made a rumbling sound, but the birds were probably more accustomed to hearing it, and they were not moved at all, but called more cheerfully.
It's been sunny for a week, I've seen too many bright maple love, the day of Xianghu Lake in the afternoon becomes rain is coming and not coming, the lake light between the autumn colors is like an elegant ink danqing, not thick or glamorous, not vulgar or noisy, everything is like a quiet and gentle woman, intellectual and straightforward, just right. One or two small boats cruising lightly on the lake, the pale yellow reeds and faint maple forests on the shore blend together with the gray and blue mountains in the distance and the lonely island in the middle of the lake, permeating with an ethereal and distant atmosphere, as if the painter used the coloring technique of "ink and color and ink", which is elegant and not sluggish, forming a picture of intricate overlapping color layers, thick and thin. Such a quiet landscape reveals a strong Song Yun heritage. I watched the two young ladies concentrate on painting the lake, and they are also the characters in the painting!
From the Xiangpu Fish Viewing Corridor to the "One Mirror Rongtian" Water Pavilion and gazing outward, this feeling became more and more intense. There is a sub-couplet in the water pavilion, which is called "The lake light writes a thousand peaks show, and the sky shadow melts into ten miles of autumn". It seems to have been written for the scenery at this moment. The author of these two poems is Yang Shi, the old county commander of Xiaoshan who has made great contributions to the construction of Xianghu Lake. Yang Shi is to Xianghu Lake, just like Su Dongpo is to West Lake. People may still be talking about Su Dongpo's work on the Wanghu Tower of West Lake, "Black clouds turn over the ink and do not cover the mountains, and the white rain jumps into the boat." The wind blows and blows away, and the water under the Wanghu Tower is like the sky", the author describes that he was drinking on the Wanghu Tower, and saw the scenery after the rain was coming in the West Lake and the sky was clear. Yang Shi, who was also a poet of the Northern Song Dynasty, made an appointment with a few friends to visit Xianghu Lake by boat, and also wrote a small poem of "Wanghu Tower", but Yang Shi's Wanghu Tower, of course, refers to the shore of Xianghu Lake. The vast, clear surface of the lake is calm and unwavering, and the starry night sky is reflected on the lake. On the lake, it seems to be stepping on the clouds, slowly roaming in the Milky Way. How wonderful and charming is the ethereal distance of Xianghu Lake in autumn!Every time I stand in this mirror Rongtian Water Pavilion, I feel that I am in dialogue with Yang Shi in the air, and I am full of poetry.
I once bought a book of ancient Song Yun paintings on the Internet, which contains a painting of "Xiaoxiang Picture" by Dong Yuan, a painter of the fifth generation. In the painting, the ink is mixed with light colors, and the mountains are mostly used with the idea method, almost no lines, and the vegetation of the distant mountains is expressed with ink dots, creating a vague and textured mountain-shaped outline. The painter uses the technique of leaving a large blank space to create a feeling of misty clouds, deep mountains and forests, and a slight blur of smoke and water. Fishing boats are dotted among the mountains and rivers, with vivid colors and subtle depictions, adding infinite vitality to the quiet and deep mountain forest. Later, I read a lot of materials and said that "Xiaoxiang Tu" is not necessarily a real painting of Xianghu Lake and landscapes, but a paradise in the south of the Yangtze River in the minds of literati and craftsmen. Although I was a little disappointed, I always compared the impression in the album with the landscape of Xianghu Lake in front of me, and felt that the elegant and quiet Xianghu Lake was more natural and humanistic than in the painting. "The wild color is not separated by mountains, and the sky is directly connected with the water." Late autumn is the romantic season, and the unexpected surprises in Xianghu Lake have deepened this impression.
The bright window and the picture of dawn and sunshine are opened, and it is 300 miles into Xianghu Lake. In ancient times, the vast Xianghu Lake traffic was mainly by waterway. Therefore, Xianghu Lake has "the boat as the medium, the bridge as the hiring;".phoenix crown and xia veil, ten miles of red makeup". Such a lively and festive wedding on the lake has only been seen in movies and television. Nowadays, more and more young people are in love with the "blue water reflecting the red boat, and the talented will be beautiful.""scenes. On the blue waves, the two boats depend on each other, looking at each other, and I can't tell how much romance there is.
The ancient costume of the family cruise ship flashed back to the dream of Xianghu Lake at this time, and it was a landscape painting with a strong folk atmosphere. My gaze followed the two red boats, chasing them all the way across the lake, sometimes one after the other, the husband and the wife, sometimes merging into one, the bow of the boat looking at each other, all tenderness melted by the surrounding landscape. Such a popular wedding photo show is not always met by the lake.
My Travel Diary Walks through the Four Seasons of Hangzhou