On the basis of borrowing from the Tang Dynasty, the clothing style of the Song Dynasty gradually formed a new fashion trend. Unlike women in the Tang Dynasty, who pursued plump figures, women in the Song Dynasty preferred slender figures. The costumes of the Song Dynasty were also more simple, without excessive decoration and exaggerated design, and did not appear too restrictive. This fashion pays more attention to nature and comfort, showing the culture and lifestyle of Song Dynasty society.
The dress system of the Song Dynasty basically followed the Tang Dynasty, and all kinds of costumes, such as robes, robes, bows, and hairpins, were still worn according to their status ranks. The main hues of dark cyan, cyan, yellow and crimson were also maintained in color, which was similar to that of the Tang Dynasty. However, unlike formal dresses, the regular clothes of the Song Dynasty were closer to life.
In informal settings, women can choose the style and color of their regular clothes according to their preferences. In contrast, the colors of the Tang Dynasty's regular clothes tended to be gaudy and luxuriousThe regular clothes of the Song Dynasty were elegant and pure, which also reflected the simple and elegant style of the society at that time.
Undergarments and culottes are commonly worn by women. Despite the differences in fabrics and patterns, due to the rules of the rulers, commoners could not use overly bright colors to make clothingOnly light-colored fabrics can be used. This provision reflected the difference in social status between commoners and nobles at that time.
Lake blue is one of the colors often worn by women in the Song Dynasty, it is like clear lake water, giving people a fresh and natural feeling. This color is often used in women's shirts, skirts, and some accessories to keep them between walksLike a fairy in a lake, it is full of agility and elegance. Off-white was another color preferred by women in the Song Dynasty. This color is gentle and soft, like the rising moonlight, giving a sense of tranquility and comfort. Off-white is often used in women's underwear, tunics, and some home clothing, showing a simple and elegant style.
"History of the Song Dynasty: Yufu Zhi III" contains: "The clothes of the concubine. One is Yiyi, the second is Zhuyi, the third is ceremonial clothing, and the fourth is Juyi. ”The color of the clothing of married women in the Song Dynasty would vary according to the rank of their husbands. They usually wear red or yellow gauze shirts with white gauze trousers and long yellow skirts.
The patterns of women's hair ornaments in the Song Dynasty are mostly based on luan phoenix and flower branches, which are very fine and rich. For example, the silver comb of the Song Dynasty unearthed in Jiangxi is representativeIt is beautifully carved with a half-moon-shaped curly lion pattern. In addition, there are many kinds of silver hairpins unearthed in Jiangxi, some are plain and elegant without patterns, and some are carved or inlaid with precious stones.
It is worth mentioning that the flower crown began to rise in the Tang Dynasty, but in the Song Dynasty, the flower crown was very popular, and women liked it very much. The corolla is made of silkAccording to people's preferences, craftsmen design flower crowns in a variety of colors and styles, which can be used with clothing. The color of the corolla is very colorful, such as light red, bright red, and light yellow.
In the Song Dynasty, there was a kind of jewelry called "waist yellow", because women at that time, especially commoner women, often wore a yellow apron around their waists. This attitude of pursuing beauty is not only found among aristocratic women, but also widely popular among ordinary women.
They like to use flowers as a natural decoration for their heads, among which peonies and peonies are the most popular. At that time, it was fashionable to wear white flowers on the head and purple clothes, and then wearing purple flowers. If they wear a goose yellow dress, they will choose a red outfit to match to achieve visual balance and beauty.
"Cultural History of the Song Dynasty" contains: "Zi said: quality is better than literature, and literature is better than quality. Polite, then gentlemanly. ”In the daily life of women in the Song Dynasty, warm colors were the mainstay, such as red, orange, yellow, etc. These colors are lively and intimate, but not too harshIn line with the gentle and introverted temperament of women in the Song Dynasty. On important occasions, such as festivals and rituals, cool colors such as blue, green, purple, etc. are mostly used. These colors look solemn and solemn, which can highlight the dignified and virtuous women of the Song Dynasty.
During the Song Dynasty, various hair buns were often paired with headdresses made of precious materials such as gold, silver, pearls, and jadeite, which inherited the traditions of the Tang Dynasty. Therefore, women in this period would choose to be in the middle of the cheek or forehead for important occasionsDecorative with pieces of metal, patterns cut out of coloured paper in different colours, or decorated with black reflective sequins and gold leaf, these embellishments are both beautiful and functional.
The status of the literati of the Song Dynasty was significantly improved, and they showed an elegant, erudite, gentle, and courteous image, which attracted the pursuit and yearning of many people. During this period, people were keen to create this aesthetic image, expecting to show the same style. The design and style of Song Dynasty costumes strongly reflect this desire, perfectly demonstrating the suave, unpretentious character.
Over time, the color of the clothing gradually changed from gorgeous bright colors to low-key plain colors, which made the image of the Song Dynasty woman show the characteristics of gentleness and elegance. The costumes also highlight their restrained and restrained character. Paired with the gowns that were popular at the time, this costume was very much in line with the etiquette norms of the time.
The prosperity of the commodity economy in the Song Dynasty promoted the diversification and marketization of the development of clothing. The consumption level of the gentry class has increasedIt has given birth to more fashion elements, such as silk weaving, embroidery and other crafts, which are widely used in clothing production.
The Song Dynasty was the peak period of China's ancient scientific and technological civilization, and the weaving industry was further improved on the basis of the Tang Dynasty. The scale of government-run silk production during the Song and Song dynasties far exceeded that of the Tang DynastyThere are a number of government-run silk production organizations in the capital, such as the Silk Brocade Academy, the Wensi Academy, the Inner Dyeing Institute, the Tailoring Institute, and the Cultural Embroidery Institute. These organizations were huge in size and had many craftsmen, often with three or four hundred looms and more than a thousand craftsmen. The scale of the silk weaving industry led to the remarkable development of the entire silk weaving industry in the Song and Song dynasties.
In terms of output, the output of silk fabrics in the Song Dynasty was greatly increased on the basis of the Tang Dynasty. During the period from Tang Zhongzong to Tang Tianbao, the annual production of silk fabrics was only 2 millionIn the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, the output of various silk fabrics had reached more than 8.1 million horses, and in the early years of Yuan You, it was as many as 24.45 million horses.
"Song Hui Yao" contains: "Ju clothes, Huang Luo for it, its knee covering, large belt and clothing leather belt, with the color of the clothes. Yu is the same as the robe, but there is no pheasant. Silkworms are obedient. ”The weaving technology of the Song Dynasty has been greatly innovated and developed, which makes the light silk, a thin and smooth silk fabric, have been better applied. To make the light silk as light as a feather and transparent as a cicada's wings, it requires very superb silk reeling technology and exquisite silk pulling and weft winding skills. Its weaving industry is very prosperous, which also makes its clothes look more gorgeous and extravagant.
The costumes of the Song Dynasty differed from the plump style of the Tang Dynasty, showing more refined and elegant characteristics, which was in line with the aesthetic pursuit of elegance and grace in the Song Dynasty. The fine and clear aesthetic ideals of the Song DynastyThanks to the innovation and development of weaving technology in the Song Dynasty. On the basis of the techniques of the Tang Dynasty, the Song Dynasty innovated the process of adding gold threads to the brocade, making the costumes more ornate and exquisite.
The Uighur gold brocade technique was greatly developed in the Song Dynasty, and its process was complex and costly. The Northern Song Dynasty has issued bans many timesThe restriction of the use of gold ornaments indicates the maturity and widespread use of the gold addition process in the Song Dynasty. The tomb of Huangsheng in the Southern Song Dynasty in Fuzhou is an important empirical evidence for the study of the history of Chinese clothing, and its burial costumes and silk fabrics include all kinds of silk, yarn, and qi.
Silk is also a major innovation in the weaving technology of the Song Dynasty, which is characterized by weaving a fabric with a gold wire engraving effect through the warp and weftIt can weave very beautiful clothing patterns. This craft reached its peak during the Song Dynasty, bringing new developments to the clothing and decoration industry at the time.
The changes in women's clothing in the Song Dynasty were closely related to the changes in the social environment, and the Song Dynasty ideology, which was respected by the ruling class, played a role in fueling the flames and had a profound impact on its changes. Clothing is one of the manifestations of the culture of an era, which reflects the characteristics of the times and social culture.
History of the Song Dynasty and Yufu Zhi III
Cultural History of the Song Dynasty
Song will want to".