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UMA WANG Designer Wang Juice Source: WWD International Fashion News UMA WANG Designer Wang Juice Source: WWD International Fashion News.
Author |Zifeng
On the stage of Milan Fashion Week, the models wore the work of Chinese designer Wang Juice, and the audience was immediately attracted by the wide robes: the clothes did not have the Chinese patterns they had seen before, but they could remind them of the ...... of that faraway oriental country
After the show, Wang Ju said in an interview that she did not want to deliberately show Chinese style in this show, but rubbed the subtlety and blank beauty of the Orient into her clothes, and let people appreciate Oriental aesthetics in a way that is more Chinese design imagery.
Compared with the rapid development of other designers' careers, Wang Juice's brand road is extremely patient and steady. After working as a knitwear designer in China for ten years, Wang Ju went to St. Martin's College for further study and set up his own studio, which was later renamed Uma Wang. As one of the first Chinese designers to enter the international market, Wang Ju's designs convey the introverted, casual and natural aesthetic taste of oriental culture, as well as the romantic emotions that connect the past and the present.
Uma Wang's work, like herself, exudes a calm and soft temperament in terms of color, cut and fabric. Most of the colors of Wang Ju's works are mature tones such as brown red, beige, deep red and dark green, and the clothes are washed to show a mottled effect of uneven color dyeing, which constructs the unique trace aesthetics of UMA Wang. In terms of the cut of the clothing silhouette, uma wang rarely has a large area of skin-revealing design, and mostly uses the technique of wrapping or exposing the back or neck, exuding an easy-going and natural attitude. In Wang Ju's eyes, the beauty of women is shown in this state of wrapping and draping.
The fabrics used by Uma Wang are unique and sophisticated. Wang Ju expresses the scenery she has seen during her travels around the world, the inspiration she has received, and the emotions that arise from it in the fabric. She transforms the decay of the natural world into a double layer of dilapidated tassels, the bark of trees in nature, the wrinkled water, and the mottled walls, all of which have become the inspiration for Uma Wang's designs, all of which reflect Uma Wang's unique acceptance and aesthetic attitude.
Taking cross-regional culture as the theme of inspiration, Wang Ju takes the initiative to embrace the attitude and vision of international fashion, so that his design innovation meets the diversified needs of the international market. When she first appeared at Milan Fashion Week, Wang Ju quoted the Tao Te Ching to interpret her design: "It is said to be formless, the image of nothing, and it is to be trance." The first is not seen, and then the second is not followed". Wang Ju does not deliberately use figurative oriental symbols in his works, but uses space and shape to express this idea. In Wang Ju's understanding, the clothing space is like the blank space in Chinese painting, which plays the role of the finishing touch in the painting, especially with the beauty of oriental imagery. This kind of rhyme is embodied in the integration between clothing and the human body, women wear such clothes, and the pace of walking will drive the clothes to form a second shape, which is very beautiful. Since then, Wang Ju has continued to create across regional cultural backgrounds, and has integrated the aesthetic connotation of oriental Zen into it.
2 UMA WANG 2019SS Paris Fashion Week Backstage **UMA WANG official website.
In every show after Uma Wang, Wang Ju has always shown romantic humanistic feelings and oriental aesthetics. In 2019, Wang Ju released his work at Paris Fashion Week, under the dim light, the model was dressed like a mysterious priestess, a declining prince and nobleman, retro and elegant, decadent and romantic. Inspired by the ancient and mysterious Andes Mountains and the unique civilizations of the Inca period, this time gives the impression of being on an ancient island, with priests in broad robes performing mystical rituals. In this collection, romantic ethnic customs are rooted in intricate Chinese embroidery, and floral fabrics in late autumn tones sway with oriental influences.
uma wang2019fw **umawangofficial
In the spring and summer of 2020, Wang Ju used the ruins of Pompeii as inspiration to recreate the love-hate feelings of a thousand-year-old city destroyed by a volcanic eruption. The murals, floor tiles and inscribed stone monuments of the ancient city are dyed on textured fabrics, and through traditional plant dyeing and special distressing treatments, she adds a mottled sense of history and endless stories and memories to the clothing. Loose long suits and dresses, with delicate pleats and rich layers, Wang Ju used these delicate arrangements to meet her unique style of understated elegance.
UMA WANG Fall/Winter 2021 Collection***umawangofficial
Fall/Winter 2021, Uma Wang's introduction to the collection is like the whisper of a soothsayer: "The ancient sea, the ship of the survivors." Falling rose petals, cruising goldfish, animal scented blankets. Strange magic, geometric allegory. In terms of silhouettes, Wang Ju continues the traditional Chinese design style, using proportions to change the length of the sleeves and the width of the trousers, or exaggerating the silhouette of the jacket to make it look like old clothes from memory, but without losing the beauty.
In this way, Wang Ju conveys a "subconscious" message, and Uma Wang is undoubtedly always romantic, a romance full of historical elegance. In short, you may not be able to tell which part of Wang Juice's clothes is Chinese elements, but you can always feel the unique charm.
Wang Ju crosses countries and regions to find design inspiration, integrates diversified thinking into his works, and we can always see the bits and pieces of oriental culture in every detail. With gentle and calm tones and casual and natural tailoring, Wang Ju tells the secret and romantic emotions in her heart, and the indelible humanistic feelings and the feminine beauty image she pursues have made Uma Wang successfully create her own characteristics in the fashion industry.
Uma Wang's design works were released for creative analysis (2019-2022 series).
Instructor |Mao Lihui.
Author |Zheng Zifeng(Wuhan Textile University, Graduate School of Fashion Arts).
Picture |Internet.
This article is the original work of Fashion** (columnist: Zheng Zifeng, editor: ucoo. Welcome**, please indicate the source of the original text: This article only represents the author's point of view, not the view of fashion**.