The following discussion in the cold fashion circle is a discussion and summary of industry issues. These sharing are the culmination of collective wisdom. (They do not represent Leng Yun's personal opinions). I hope that more people in the industry can benefit in this way!
Origin and characteristics of bio-based materials
1.Biomaterials are in the ascendant, what are the common bio(based) materials?
In addition to the traditional cotton and linen silk, modern biological (based) materials are mainly various materials or fabrics that appeared after the industrialization of genetic engineering in the 1980s. For example, kombucha mycelium, genetically modified colored cotton, sorona bio-based fabrics, mushroom leather, regenerated cellulose and so on. They also mentioned some bio-based materials that have been commercialized or are under development, such as modal, acetate, chitosan, seaweed fiber, etc.
After entering the 21st century, human beings have more biotechnology to use, and synthetic biology has entered the industry, resulting in the production of more and more bio-based materials or fabrics. For example, modal, lyocell, viscose, acetate, cupro after the transformation of plant raw materials;Fiber fabrics formed by chitosan, seaweed fibers, polylactic acid, spider silk protein fibers, pineapple leaf fibers, etc. Scientists' ideas are nothing more than this: to modify the genes of plants or microorganisms to produce fabrics with certain characteristics;Renovation of previous "waste" (coconut shells, pineapple leaves, etc.);Certain materials are produced directly in the laboratory using cells or microorganisms. Many of these plant or microbial materials have been applied to clothing fabrics.
Compared with traditional petroleum-based chemical fiber fabrics, bio-based fabrics can reduce the dependence on petroleum resources and have the advantages of degradability. However, due to the fact that it is still in the early stage, the production cost of bio-based fabrics is high, and it is necessary to reduce costs through technological innovation and achieve large-scale application.
Some designers are experimenting with various crop waste materials to develop fabrics such as banana peels, coffee grounds, etc. This enables the reuse of agricultural waste, but the scale of fabrics that can be developed is relatively limited due to the limited amount of waste itself produced.
Genetically modified technology can be used to breed crops with specific properties as fabrics**. However, the existing transgenic colored cotton has poor color fastness and has not yet been able to achieve the expected effect. GMO technology should focus more on improving the functionality of the fabric itself, rather than just coloring.
Ideal bio-based fabrics can be used directly in ready-to-wear garments, skipping the traditional printing and dyeing process. However, to achieve the desired color quality, it still requires the ingenuity of the designer. The production process and the design link need to strengthen cooperation and communication, and designers also need to design and deal with undesirable colors and do a good job of fabric color mixing from the source.
At present, some teams are developing forward-looking new materials such as mycelium leather. These technologies are still in their infancy, and there are challenges such as production controllability. However, as a potential alternative material, it has great prospects, and its commercialization process needs to be paid attention to.
In short, bio-based fabrics have broad application prospects, but there are still considerable technical and cost shortcomings from research and development to implementation. The next step is to make technological breakthroughs in reducing production costs and improving material properties to achieve large-scale replacement of traditional fabrics. As a potentially sustainable alternative, bio-based fabrics deserve continued attention and development.
2.Will biomaterials replace traditional materials, and what are its properties and advantages?
In recent years, biomaterials have received widespread attention, on the one hand, to form a differentiation from traditional chemical fibers, and on the other hand, to fit the general trend of sustainable development and green consumption. The rapid development of synthetic biotechnology has opened up possibilities for the application of biomaterials. Biomaterials can be relied on as a petroleum resource, which is more in line with the needs of low-carbon environmental protection.
Compared with traditional cotton, linen silk or chemical fiber materials, bio-based materials often have a unique shape and touch, and the process is in line with the concept of sustainable fashion, and it is easy to degrade in the ecological environment. In the society, it can cater to the sustainable development policy of ** and the green consumption preferences of consumers.
Compared with traditional materials, biomaterials can be updated and iterated quickly, and the production cycle is shorter. Similar to cell-cultured meat analogues, the material can be "produced" in a matter of days through microbial fermentation, for example. This significantly reduces the resource and environmental costs of raw materials. The speed and controllability of the bioprocess is its core advantage.
At present, industries such as apparel and footwear are beginning to use bio-based materials for product design. For example, Nike's plant-based nylon shoe series, Lululemon's sportswear series made of red alcoidin, and polylactic acid products from Xtep, Nike and other brands. These success stories demonstrate the potential of biomaterials in the fashion industry.
At the same time, the application range of biomaterials is far beyond the clothing industry, and can also be widely used in luggage, furniture and other fields. It is in line with consumers' pursuit of sustainable and green concepts, and is also one of the important means for enterprises to achieve carbon neutrality goals. Biomaterials can be a sustainable alternative across multiple industries.
In the long run, biomaterials have the potential to develop into a huge industrial ecology. It can be innovatively integrated with cutting-edge technologies such as information technology and synthetic biology. In the future, the bioeconomy will reconstruct the production mode of the traditional material industry. However, at this stage, there are still many difficulties in the development and commercialization of biomaterials. It is necessary to accumulate technology in reducing production costs and improving material properties to achieve mass application. Relevant standards and specifications also need to be established and unified. But with the advancement of key technologies, it has the potential to completely disrupt the traditional materials industry.
For biomaterials companies, it is necessary to focus on developing the types of materials that meet the market demand while controlling the quality. Consumers also need to be made aware of the sustainable value of their products. Only by gradually building up brand influence can you stand out from the competition.
For traditional material enterprises, it is also necessary to lay out in advance and gradually explore the application space of biomaterials. It can cooperate with cutting-edge technology companies to conduct product trials. It is necessary to keep up with the change trend brought by new materials and win in the transformation.
In short, biomaterials can provide new ideas for sustainable human development and green and low-carbon transformation, but their development and application require the joint efforts of all parties to actively promote it.
The connotation and future trend of biodesign
1.Biodesign in a sustainable perspective
Biodesign is currently a popular design field that can be applied to industries such as clothing. It integrates cutting-edge concepts such as biomimicry and biotechnology to explore the sustainable application of materials. Biodesign offers new ideas for circularity. But it is not a stand-alone school of design, but should be integrated into the overall concept of sustainable design.
When judging materials, we can't simply equate "natural" with "sustainable". Judging a material is based on its impact throughout its life cycle. Synthetic materials can also be green and degradable through technological innovation. At the same time, not every biomaterial is fully sustainable, and some biomaterials, such as plant-based nylon, are not biodegradable and still have an impact on the environment.
At present, biological design and materials are still in the experimental stage, and there are not many cases of real commercialization. There is a flood of new noun concepts, and consumers should not blindly follow them, but also need to make rational judgments. Many so-called "green" products are suspected of exaggeration. Biodesign is also being tested from the lab to the market.
Regarding the application of biomaterials and biodesign in clothing design, functionality is necessary, but it is not possible to blindly pursue multi-functionality. Functions are not absolute, and for use scenarios, composite functions may also bring inconvenience, and designers need to balance lightness, aesthetics and other needs. Differentiated and scenario-based applications are possible development directions in the future.
Of course, design is only one part of the product development process. From raw material development to the end consumer, everything is equally important. Marketing ultimately determines the success or failure of a product. No matter how good the design is, it is difficult to be recognized by the world without effective promotion. Design needs to be both functional and aesthetic, and keep an open mind to win market recognition.
At the end of the day, it's about people that design solves. It needs to pay attention to the demands of different consumers and provide meaningful products. Design should not be about entertaining itself, but about creating a combination of functionality and emotional value. Bio-design and new technologies offer new possibilities for sustainable fashion.
2.Sustainable design in practice
Sustainable design cannot be separated from the needs of the present and talk about the future. It needs to improve the ecology while also allowing the majority of users to perceive specific conveniences. The essence of design is the display of creativity. Endless creativity requires a wide range of inspiration and critical thinking. This requires designers to be forward-looking, humble and diligent in learning, and at the same time think from the perspective of ordinary consumers, in order to continue to innovate in this rapidly changing era.
When it comes to corporate practices for sustainable design, there are also a few things to keep in mind:
First, set clear sustainable design goals and not just empty concepts. Targets need to be specifically quantified and an implementation plan developed. Second, design with sustainability in mind from the start. Sustainability should run through the whole process of R&D and production, establish a reliable raw material chain, track and audit the new materials used, and ensure their sustainable attributes. Finally, it is evaluated and certified through a third party. This can give credibility to the green nature of the design.
Of course, this requires a time and cost investment from the business. But sustainable design is the inevitable direction of the development of the fashion industry. Companies need to continuously improve their sustainable design practices to stay ahead of the market.
3.Why is biodesign the future?
The advent of biodesign has opened up new possibilities for the fashion industry. In terms of fabrics, a variety of new bio-based and functional fabrics have been introduced, providing designers with different opportunities to play. New materials provide a broader space for design innovation. But it also faces challenges from the lab to the market.
New material technologies need to be market-proven and nurtured by consumers. The future development trend of technology will definitely be dominated by chemical fiber technology, and the proportion of biological (base) can only be said to be higher and higher. But we can't deny that new materials in clothing will bring new functional advantages, such as fabrics with the same texture can be antibacterial, mite removal or other more advanced functions. Therefore, the new brand should have a long-term vision and steadily accumulate influence. We can't blindly pursue concept hype and deviate from user needs.
Functional products can be considered in the medical and health field. This type of product is not very sensitive to ** and has a certain threshold. But regulatory risks need to be carefully assessed. In addition, digital innovations can be explored, such as the use of AR VR technology to enrich the product experience and give the product a new cultural connotation.
Returning to the selection of fabrics in the apparel industry, functional fabrics have broad application prospects. It can be used in medical protection products to improve the protective effect, and can also be used in everyday clothing to increase the comfort of use. However, functionality cannot be used as a single selling point of the product, and the core value of the product also lies in the design aesthetics and brand culture. Consumers are not only buying features, but also pursuing the emotional value behind the product. This requires designers to integrate and optimize.
For example, sportswear can be made of soft, breathable functional fabrics that can be complemented by a streamlined design to enhance the aesthetic appeal. The product should take into account the multi-faceted value and optimize the combination through design. More innovative applications can also be explored for functional fabrics.
For fashion companies, it is necessary to do the following to cope with the industry changes brought about by new material technology:
First of all, establish a material technology R&D team to track cutting-edge trends in a timely manner and make technical reserves. At the same time, it is also necessary to strengthen the study of the market and consumer demand. Cooperate with relevant scientific research institutions to test and apply new technologies. Validate the viability of new technologies on a small scale. But there is also the issue of cost-effectiveness.
In addition, select representative products to test the water of new technologies. It is necessary to have a clear marketing promotion plan and conduct consumer education. New technologies need to be gradually accepted by users. Don't rely too much on a single technology. Product value is a system engineering, and new technology is only one part of it. There are also many factors that need to be considered in the design.
In short, biodesign provides support for sustainable development and will also drive the transformation of the fashion industry. However, the specific implementation needs to adopt a gradual strategy and grow together with consumers.
The owner concluded
1. The origin and characteristics of biological (based) materials.
1.What are the common bio-based materials?
In addition to the traditional cotton and linen silk, modern biological (based) materials are mainly various materials or fabrics that appeared after the industrialization of genetic engineering in the 1980s. For example, kombucha mycelium, genetically modified colored cotton, sorona bio-based fabrics, mushroom leather, regenerated cellulose and so on. After entering the 21st century, human beings have more biotechnology to use, and synthetic biology has entered the industry, resulting in the production of more and more bio-based materials or fabrics.
2.Will bio-based materials replace traditional materials, and their properties and advantages.
Compared with traditional cotton, linen silk or chemical fiber materials, bio-based materials often have a unique shape and touch, and the process is in line with the concept of sustainable fashion, and it is easy to degrade in the ecological environment. In the society, it can cater to the sustainable development policy of ** and the green consumption preferences of consumers.
2. The connotation and future trend of biological design.
Fashion, as a concentrated embodiment of aesthetic value, is always at the forefront, and the content of science and technology is increasing.
1.Biodesign in a sustainable perspective
Domestic: Xtep's polylactic acid windbreaker, bio-based fabrics in bananas**, etc.
Overseas: T-shirts made of plant-based nylon launched by lululemon, Nike's "Happy Pineapple" sneaker series, Patagonia sportswear using microbial dyeing technology, and bio-based down jackets launched by Moncler.
Biodesign is all about "naturalness". Good design should be sustainable, environmentally ethical, and constantly pushing the boundaries of materials and disciplines.
2.Sustainable design in practice
Sustainable design cannot be separated from the needs of the present and talk about the future. It needs to improve the ecology while also allowing the majority of users to perceive specific conveniences.
3.Why is biodesign the future?
The advent of biodesign offers new possibilities for the fashion industry: to reinvent tradition and embrace the new. The mainstream trend of future technology development must still be dominated by chemical fiber technology, and the proportion of biological (base) can only be said to be higher and higher. However, it is undeniable that new materials in clothing will bring new functional advantages and bring changes to human life that conform to the times.
Text arrangement: Zhang Huaikai
Text Editor: Chen Chang
Art Editor: Li Ning