Winter in Yakutsk Special thermometers are frozen and cracked, and they dare not wipe their noses when they are frozen
There is no spring, summer, autumn in Siberia, only winter and winter. ”
Why is it so cold in Siberia?"Köppen Climatology" gives this explanation: Siberia is located in the "cold polar center" of the northern hemisphere, where the temperature is very high and absorbs very little heat energy, so the weather is very cold, and under the action of moist sea water, it is easy to form cold waves. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that winter in Siberia is about the same as winter, and a special thermometer is frozen, which means that the weather here is very hot.
The hinterland of Siberia, Yakutsk is undoubtedly the most typical:
122 square kilometers of the city are built on permafrost;Winter temperatures are below minus 30 degrees Celsius, while in each winter, the temperature is 6 months higher;From here there is a direct distance of more than 650 kilometers to the Pacific Ocean and more than 1,000 kilometers to the Arctic Ocean;The lowest temperature of the day was -657 degrees Celsius, maximum temperature 384 degrees Celsius, with a maximum temperature difference of 102 degrees Celsius in a day.
If I were asked how cold the winter was in Yakutsk, my answer would be: after 3 minutes of opening, the temperature drops by 60 degrees Celsius, and the windows never close;He didn't want to touch his nose for fear of freezing.
Yakutsk, also known as the "Ice City", is the capital of the Russian Republic of Sakha, which covers an area of 3.08 million square kilometers but has a total population of less than one million, making it the largest administrative region in Russia. In other words, although the Republic of Sakha is 100,000 square kilometers larger than India, its population is less than 1,324 times that of India.
Although the population is small, it has been inhabited for 3,500 years, and probably in the ninth century, they formed what the Russians called the "Yakul people" (abbreviated "Yakul people"), because of the yellow **, facial features and Chinese are very similar, so it is considered the most populous place in Asia on the planet.
In 1782, Tsarist Russia occupied Sakha and established the Irkutsk Province, where a large number of Slavic exiles poured in, and established an agricultural community based on agriculture and fishing, mainly wheat, oats, potatoes and other crops, mainly animal husbandry, hunting and fishing, Yakutsk is the largest industrial base in Siberia due to its colder temperature, suitable for diamond, gold, oil and timber.
That's why Yakutsk has grown to the point it is today: Eurasian mixed ethnicity is common, all speak Slavic languages, but the food and culture are Asian, there are few pastoralists, but their festivals are essential.
The first time I heard about Yakutsk from the Russians, it was from Moscow to Irkutsk, and during the flight of more than six hours, I talked with Nisaline for a long time, and after getting out of the car, Nisaline and I decided to go straight to Yakutsk, more than 1500 kilometers away, Baikal had just snowed, there were no "ice bubbles", so we fished here. Coincidentally, a close friend of Nisaline's was also on the way to Yakutsk, so the three of them traveled together.
Yakutsk and Moscow are separated by six time zones, and since Soviet times, it has been planned to build a railway to Yakutsk between Irkutsk and Yakutsk, but it has not yet been built, and people have to get off at the Amur station and take a bus from the town of Tomto. Even so, there are still many passengers who give up direct flights and take the train to Yakutsk, along the way, they rarely see the scenery of the snow country, but the facilities of the railway station are relatively simple, some platforms are almost non-existent, even if they hold a wild dog, no one will stop them.
Nasha is a good friend of Nisaline, she is a woman on the island of Olkhon Baikal, under her leadership, the family moved to Yakutsk, and Nasha was admitted to the Yakutsk State Academy, according to her understanding, the train from Lake Baikal to Yakutsk is the best choice in Siberia.
Yes, the snow on the tracks is as beautiful as the trains in Switzerland, especially at Hani station, where the snow-capped pine trees resemble rows of white jade statues, giving a warm feeling when the sun shines on them.
At first, I thought Tomtó was just a small town, but after getting off the train, I realized that this is not ordinary, it was a former industrial and transportation hub established by the Soviet military, with a railway station, a bus station, a residential area, a shopping street, and a tourist attraction. The bus stop to Yakutsk takes only 5 minutes from 9 pm to 6 am.
Let him come to Yakutsk for a tour, you must have some kind of nerve."
In the car, an old lady heard that I was going to Yakutsk, and excitedly "scolded" Nisaline and Nasha, for the locals, Yakutsk is not an easy thing to do, there is heavy snow everywhere, there is cold wind everywhere, there is no fun at all, let alone other places. Nisaline smiled, "We are both young, and if we don't muster up the courage this time, I'm afraid we won't have a chance in the future." ”
When I got out of the car, my grandmother grabbed my hands and told me repeatedly: "I shouldn't take off what I should wear, I shouldn't say what I should say, I shouldn't say what I shouldn't say, I shouldn't say what I shouldn't say, I should say what I should say or what I should say." ”
And in the middle of this square is the hardest, straightest Christmas tree, probably the oldest on the planet, about fifteen days after Christmas, it will be erected until April next year. During this time, it is not that no one wants to do this, but trees are as hard as iron, and branches break at the touch of a button.
He remembered that the famous European traveler Dobson once said that in winter, the sun is barely visible in Yakutsk, and even at noon, only a shadow is shown in the sun, and no heat is felt at all. On that day, when I came to Yakutsk, I saw such a scene, the sun at sunset, like a tungsten lamp without electricity, looking like it was about to go out.
Yakutsk was originally famous for its mammoths, and the city center has the world's largest mammoth memorial, however, in the eyes of locals, mammoths are myths and museums, and everyone prefers ancient cows and strong bears, and statues of cows and bears can be seen everywhere on the streets.
According to common sense, the favorite of the Yakkur people living in this bitter cold land are sled dogs and reindeer, Nasha said, the cart dog is their means of transportation, and the reindeer are their food, which cannot be used as souvenirs.
In the following week, I often saw villagers driving sled dogs or reindeer into the city, preferring to drive through the city.
I don't want to drive for three or four hours, after all, the car will be "scrapped" after being parked outside for more than five minutes, and even the best cars will be overwhelmed by the bitter cold of Yakutsk. According to the figures released by **, Yakutsk has 350,000 inhabitants and more than 7,000 private cars, and there are only three heated parking lots in the city, which cost 400 to 500 rupees (40-50 yuan) per hour.
According to the average salary of Russians, the salary of Yakutsk natives is higher than that of ordinary workers, and it is difficult for ordinary workers to reach more than 40,000 yuan, and Nasha, as a university teacher, earns only 900,000 rubles a year, which is equivalent to more than 8,000 yuan a month.
Therefore, life in Yakutsk is completely controlled by the state, vegetables, fruits and food are directly from the regions, the necessities of life are purchased from Novosibirsk, and electricity and electricity are state-run. In short, after large-scale financial subsidies and tax incentives, housing prices in Yakutsk have been lower than in most Russian cities, a three-bedroom house, the monthly rent is between 7,000 and 15,000 rubles, electricity, electricity, and living expenses account for 40% each, 50% in the third year, 70% in the fifth year, and 80% rent is exempted in 10 years, which is why Yakutsk can still retain hundreds of thousands of people.
After walking around the street, he realized that the ** in Yakutsk is really too cheap, a 2A 5-kilogram reindeer rib costs only 250 roubles, and the local favorite pork leg bone costs less than 300 roubles. You know, those reindeer are raised in the wild, more than 100 catties of reindeer, at most more than 10,000 rubles, while 10 catties of meat in China cost more than 1,800, which is why Russians are so keen on meat, after all, vegetables are worth more than meat.
The main attraction of Yakutsk is not the commercial and cultural streets, but the fish market, where dozens of different species of fish are neatly placed in a wooden tank** (they cannot touch the ground, and they cannot be lifted if they touch the ground), which is really rare in Siberia.
I asked an aunt casually, there are two kinds of fish in Yakutsk, one is produced in the Sea of Okhotsk in the Far East, because of its huge size, so customers are generally dragged one by one, or cut with a chainsaw, the lowest is more than ten catties, seven or eight hundred rubles;The other is the freshwater fish imported from Lake Baikal and the Lerna River, and the ** on the market is generally about half a catty, the most expensive one is seven hundred rubles a catty, most of them are fresh, and the cheapest box is about five or six hundred rubles.
The next morning, with a maniac laugh, Nasha showed me two **s on her phone: one was a straight skirt and one was a frozen noodle.
In fact, there are all kinds of strange things in this world, so after someone questioned that Yakutsk really had such a high temperature, they would use such a method to show their contempt. It's actually very easy, just wet the skirt, then shake it outside (the bottom of the skirt touches the ground), release it after three minutes, and you can stand up.
According to Russian regulations, after winter, all villages and towns must install thermometers, but because the temperature is extremely low, the general thermometer can only be placed for more than an hour, and the thermometer will be **, for this reason, Russia has developed a special low-temperature thermometer, which can read -70 degrees Celsius, but even if it is a special thermometer, there will be cracks.
When the temperature drops to 0 degrees Celsius, everyone has started to invite relatives and friends to dinner together, and the temperature of 0 degrees Celsius or lower means the arrival of spring and the end of "hibernation". To be sure, the outdoor thermometer is below freezing most of the time, and it's -65 degrees Celsius.
Frankly, I also asked Nasha a stupid question: Do natives be afraid of the cold?
Nasha said very seriously: "The Yakutsk people, in theory, are the most resistant to the cold, and their children have been exercising since they were very young, and we started when we were young, and then under the supervision of parents and teachers, we poured cold water outdoors several times, which is a Russian tradition.
Yakutsk people also have an unwritten Xi, that is, when they are just six months old, parents will consciously send their children outside, even if they can't walk, they must put their children at home, the colder it is, the more they have to go out. Even when their children take exams, they maintain this Xi, and even when their children take exams, they are "kicked out of the house" by their parents, leaving them to play outside sweaty before they can go back.
Seeing this group of children who are not afraid of the cold, I immediately understood why Yakutsk is so hardy.