In winter, according to the usual practice, the citrus will not continue to shoot at this time. However, due to the influence of El Niño, the weather in southern China has been a bit too hot this year. In addition to the shoots, some orchards even bloom. Now that it is blooming, there is a high probability that it will not come to flower next year, which means that the yield is gone. The climate is abnormal, the flowering period is chaotic, yellowing is spreading, and the citrus industry is as sluggish as the economic environment. Where should citrus growers like you and me go?
Citrus wants to have enough high-quality flowers, if you want to have good flowers, you need to have timely and ripe autumn shoots, if you want to have good autumn shoots, you need to control the yield, and adjust the shoot time through fertilizer and water. In the past, it was a natural thing to grow citrus to make money, and now it is a master who can grow citrus without losing money. Now the involution has been rolled into the very traditional industry of agriculture. It's hard now, and maybe even harder next year.
Therefore, for citrus trees with fewer fruits and more vigorous trees this year, it is necessary to spray paclobutrazol or uniconazole appropriately to control the pressure and promote flower bud differentiation. For this year's trees with more fruit and relatively weak trees, because of the lack of nutrients, the flower bud differentiation will not be very good, so it can be strengthened by root nutrition, mainly to supplement organic matter and phosphorus, boron, zinc, and promote flowering through foliar spraying of amino acids + phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. At this time, it is not advisable to spray paclobutrazol + potassium dihydrogen phosphate to promote flowering, otherwise it will aggravate the risk of leaf yellowing and causing dead trees.
For everyone's main concern, what to do with the trees that have now appeared buds. Here we provide you with a few ideas for your reference. The following operations are for reference only.
First of all, we need to investigate the proportion of flowers, and see how many buds can enter the flower bud differentiation after flowering.
1.If the tree is full of flower buds, there are no bud eyes and the flower buds will be differentiated again. Then you can only bet that this winter will not be cold, try your best to keep this batch of flowers, and use small fruits to overwinter. Maybe next year we will be able to get the earliest chance to go public. However, theoretically, the expansion of small fruits in the coming year will be affected after wintering, and the fruit diameter will be relatively small, and even in the cold winter, there will be a risk of total annihilation. Therefore, this is the best way to deal with it, and it is not a priority.
2.If there are fewer flower buds now, there are many places to be differentiated, which is the least stressful. At this time, the idea of operation is to quickly remove the branches that have already seen flowers, and then promote the citrus to enter the second batch of flower bud differentiation stage.
The specific operations can be as follows:
Priority is given to manually erasing the flower buds, and then spraying potassium dihydrogen phosphate 300 times + boron 1500 times + 25% paclobutrazol 400 times to promote flowering
If there is no artificial flower picking, then it is necessary to use scissors to remove the last branches that have become flowers, and then hit 2-3 times in a row to promote flowering: potassium dihydrogen phosphate 300 times + boron 1500 times + 25% paclobutrazol 400 times;
If you don't have time to pick the flowers, and there is no way to cut off the flower branches, you can arrange 5% S-attractin 2000 times + mineral oil 200 times at this time, and strive to knock the flower buds down, and then consider promoting flowering.
The above content is compiled and edited by the Ask Farmers team, for reference only!
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