Forced by the situation, the small boss on the Yellow River Road and the cook of the grass class rushed out of Huashan Road!
Text |Shen Jialu
On this day, Jiangnan Xiaohan, misty drizzle, and wet clouds four episodes ("Flowers" Chapter 2 No. 2), Wong Kar-wai's TV series "Flowers" appeared on CCTV and Tencent at the same time. **, the beginning is the small vegetable market of Jing'an Temple, Tao Tao sells hairy crabs, and Husheng and Mei Rui drink coffee. The first small climax is **, the man who cuckolded took three little apprentices to eat pork liver noodles and vegetarian chicken in the Daming restaurant opposite the alley, and saw the egg seller enter the door, and the four masters and apprentices "......."Ran into the alley and looked at the third floor, the curtain cloth had been pulled ......"In the front and back alleys, the residents are in an uproar, and they all run out to watch the white opera, the rice is not tao, the vegetables are not burned, the dishes and chopsticks are not placed, and those who sit on the toilet also jump up and run outside. The word "food and color" in Shanghai was vividly interpreted by Lao Jin.
The film crew restored a Yellow River road at the Chedun Film and Television Base
The film crew restored a Yellow River road in the Chedun Film and Television Base, and the lights like the Tower of Babel created a dreamy atmosphere of the ** era in an extremely exaggerated way. In fact, Lao Jin usually prefers to eat on Jinxian Road near the Writers' Association, and he has a special feeling for digging three feet into the ground and then building a small restaurant with an attic on it, and the proprietress of the green onion row is his thoughts. ** wrote: "Reiko has been to Japan for many years, and recently returned to Shanghai, and set up a small restaurant on Jinxian Road in the center of the city, called 'Night Tokyo'. At this moment in Shanghai, there are not many small restaurants with a storefront, low pockets and attic inside. As usual, a television set was hung in the store, and six or seven small tables were placed, each of which was for three or four people. There are many guests, the table is turned over and sits six people, and there are many guests, and the round table is launched, and the dojo is made in the snail shell. ”
Stills from "Flowers".
Lao Jin wrote quite a lot of eating scenes in **, but the focus is on the people not in the dishes. Most of the words are said after drinking, and the scene is explained in a few words, and the order is up to the point: in a small restaurant, toppings and side dishes, three bottles of beer. Or a large pot of white chopped chicken, a small bowl of ginger seasoning, and a bottle of rice wine. "Night Tokyo", a guest of curry beef or three-silk rice bowl. "Four like spring", two bowls of small wontons, two fried pork cutlets, two bowls of scallion oil noodles, Yixing turbulent;Or eat two bowls of frozen mint mung bean soup and eat and talk about it. At the bus terminal, the restaurant opposite sells fried raw and fried chicken and duck blood soup all night, and the lights are dazzling. Eating shabu mutton on Yunnan Road is just a pot of mutton, a guest of mutton liver, and the others are egg dumplings, spinach and so on. Huxi Hotel, formerly known as Huxi Zhuangyuan Building, white cut, dry cut, white chopping, clear robbery, belly stall, time piece, paddling, bald roll, and lion head and so on. The largest pomp and circumstance is only three tables at a time. Once, I borrowed Sihanouk's cause and asked the ** character to perform a Shanghai-style mouth, and reported in one breath the famous scriptures such as sirloin steak, pan-fried lamb, creamy Portuguese chicken, baked onion soup, baked snails, and flat-mouthed eight treasures, gold powder and slippery gold bars.
Stills from "Flowers".
The most wonderful episode appeared in the prison of the old society, where the enemy puppet prison warden withheld food, and the poor prisoners lived in the troubled times on two bowls of thin porridge and soup a day. Bao's father said that the prisoner had banknotes in his hand, he could buy them casually, he could order food and drink, casually, the hawker went directly into the prison, did the steamer business, sold meat steamed buns, crystal big bags, shrimp wontons, wontons, and directly picked them into the prison patio, dropped a bowl of eel paste noodles, called a guest of Cantonese barbecued pork rice, big fish and meat, everything, oil woks, spring rolls, moss and small yellow croaker ...... in the patioAfter reading Lao Jin's "Looking Back", you know that there is the suffering experience of his father, who was a capable underground worker.
Lao Jin usually eats with friends, does not talk about pomp, he is more interested in people than food. As soon as "Flowers" came out, the layman watched the excitement, but many peers hated it to the point that the roots of their teeth itched - he wrote all the things in the corner of Shanghai Beach, what do we eat?Luckily, he didn't dig into the technical aspects of cooking, and I was able to dig a bite of food in my own field.
Huanghe Road, once known as Shanghai's three famous food streets, Picture: Screenshot of "Shanghai Story".
Today, I will rub a hot spot and talk about the yard dishes of the Yellow River Road (some people also call them mold dishes). Forty years ago, Shanghai's private economy stepped on the accelerator, and the catering industry wanted to cooperate with economic development, so three food streets were formed: Yunnan South Road, Huanghe Road, and Zhapu Road. The entrance of the food market on Huanghe Road is the best, close to Nanjing Road, the road is open, the wall is broken to open a store, it is convenient to enter and exit, and it is the most popular. But the bosses and proprietresses who went to the sea to start a business are all halfway home, and most of the chefs they can invite are also "three-legged cats", which tastes homely all the way. The manager and chef of the state-run hotel are dismissive, and if they are seen by their peers, their reputation will be ruined!
Forced by the situation, the small boss on the Yellow River Road and the cook of the grass class rushed out of Huashan Road!If you haven't formally apprenticed to a teacher, there are no rules and regulations in your mind, and the dishes of Benbang, Chaoshan, Huaiyang, Guangdong-Hong Kong, Southeast Asia, Europe, South America, etc., how delicious and how to come, mixing and matching is a tried and tested routine. There are several dishes, the chef from the professional class can't think of it, such as sauna shrimp, throwing the live grass shrimp on a pot of pebbles that are burned to 500 degrees Celsius, and then pouring a bowl of seasonings, after the pebbles that store enough heat are stimulated, they form a steam like a nuclear bomb, and the noodles are very spectacular. The waiter quickly pressed the lid with his eyes and hands, so that a small universe was formed in the pot, and after more than ten seconds the lid was opened, the shrimp body turned red, cooked, peeled and eaten, the taste was superb. The name of the sauna shrimp is a bit ambiguous and humorous, but it is full of sound and color, and it is very ornamental, and it will soon go from the Yellow River Road to Shanghai.
Polong Mapo Tofu Photo: Shen Jialu
There are also lobsters to eat, sashimi, pepper and salt in addition to a pot of rice. This pot of rice makes people who work hard in the lower classes feel extremely friendly. The taste is not counted, even the shrimp whiskers and shrimp shells are not wasted, and the Shanghai people's budget-conscious housekeeping endowment is fully reflected. Geoduck sashimi, eat up the curled mussel slices, and burn a bowl of tofu soup with internal organs, fresh off your eyebrows!Salted egg yolk can also be used in dishes, what salted egg yolk Lipu taro, salted egg yolk winter melon, salted egg yolk tofu, salted egg yolk nine belly fish, salted egg yolk dragon fish, salted egg yolk paste crab, all have a surprising winning effect, but also can get the smacking praise of diners.
Grassroots food, the name is not particular, in order to attract attention, you might as well be silent, so that diners can remember it in a sudden smile. For example, the new dish launched during the World Cup - Zhu Bajie playing football, is actually braised pork feet and feet with a lion's head. Slice raw tomatoes and sprinkle them with sugar, which is called volcanic snow. Glutinous rice and sugar lotus root is called the road road, and the financial road is passed, and good things will come naturally. Stir-fried shredded beef with celery, a very real dish, is called playing the piano to the cow.
Braised pork with eggs Photo: Shen Jialu
Or ask what gang?There is no gang and no faction, and it is called "yard dish". The word yard, the atmosphere of the rivers and lakes is very strong, in the past, Shanghai people made an appointment, it was called "with yards". Optimus Prime knocked Xiao Sanmao down, the yard was not matched, and he bullied the weak, which was despised by the community. In the north, the toppings are called noodle codes, and the amount of stir-fried vegetables in a pot is also called a vegetable code, and sometimes it also refers to the auxiliary ingredients in a pot of vegetables. There is also the Suzhou yard, which has been a book of heaven in the eyes of ordinary people, it is a popular business password in commercial banks, pawnshops and pharmacies, which belongs to the calculation and chip system, and has now become an intangible cultural heritage item. If the word yard is read in Northern Jiangsu dialect, it has a unique charm. Therefore, I think that the yard dish is a proud presentation of non-mainstream culture, and there is a mixture of exotic culture and Shanghainese culture behind it.
Chopped pepper grouper Photo: Shen Jialu
There is no fixed way to eat, and those who are palatable are precious, this is the truth handed down by the ancients. On the Yellow River Road, I also ate fried yellow snail slices with XO sauce, Tianhua secret warm crab, steamed soft-shelled turtle with glutinous rice, steamed river eel with lotus leaf powder, fried chicken cartilage, steamed salted egg with stinky tofu, satay garlic fragrant bones, crayfish vermicelli pot, onion intestine pot, crab roe yellow croaker lion's head, Korean beef tenderloin vermicelli pot (there is no such dish in Korea), fried silver cod with cheese butter, beer fish steak, fish belly with avocado milk soup, white crab roe skin casserole, pan-fried foie gras with lotus root clip, fried goose paw with abalone sauce and black truffle fried rice, thick soup with peach gum, Black pepper shrimp with shredded radish shortbread and more. Wang Zengqi said that the fried dough sticks stuffed with meat in the "chewing sound moving ten miles" are his first creation, and there is an upgraded version on the Yellow River Road, which is stuffed with shrimp and shrimp, which tastes better.
Black pepper small green dragon plus noodles Photo: Shen Jialu
Rice cakes are a home-cooked staple food, and they can also be used in dishes on the Yellow River Road, and the classic style is fried rice cakes with hairy crabs. Hairy crab is also called June yellow, in the middle of summer, the alley people use to fry edamame, which is a wonderful dish to accompany the wine. After forming an alliance with the hairy crab, the rice cake sucks the sauce of the hairy crab, and the taste is first-class, and it can be served on the table. Later, he made fried rice cakes with eight treasure hot sauce, fried rice cakes with cream crab, fried rice cakes with soft-shelled turtles, fried rice cakes with sour and hot bullfrogs, fried rice cakes with boy chicken, fried rice cakes with black pepper and cowboy bones, fried finger rice cakes with moss, etc., and the hard-working rice cakes finally won the Oscar for Best Supporting Actor!
The sea is inclusive, eclectic, advancing with the times, and new ideas are emerging, so that "yard dishes" have many fans. Sometimes the old eater who is full of wine and food has a whim, and calls the chef out to discuss, so that the master simply stir-fries another pot, the taste is right, and an innovative dish is born.
Salted egg yolk bean paste Photography: Shen Jialu
Now the Yellow River Road Food Street has entered the Ice Age, only the Moss Shengyuan and Qianlong Food are still "vowing to live and die with the position", steamed anchovy with wine lees, beef ribs in roast sauce, shallot head strips, Qianlong Huadiao chicken, braised dragon head roast, sea emperor tofu, seafood fishing vermicelli, sad cold noodles, etc., were accidentally copied by the regular army, and the boss had to keep quiet.
Nong is a yard!This sentence is still the highest evaluation of a Shanghai man. As for the yard dishes, there is also the embarrassment of not being named properly. But if the chef and the diners don't care, then it's okay. Delicious is king.