In order to cooperate with our specially planned shooting for the Spring Festival, Song Xingwen specially opened up an open kitchen with professional equipment in the museum on the third floor of "Shilou No. 1". As a result, in those days, the local diners and the southern "Little Golden Bean" came to check in the "restaurant opened in the first food history museum in Harbin" to have a journey through time and space between food and the city. Unexpectedly, by mistake, in the hundreds of turns and thousands of cultural relics that have witnessed the century-old history of Harbin cuisine, I followed my sense of smell and found the whole process of the old chef's on-site hand-made restoration of each century-old famous dish of Harbin - in this immersive experience of food and history, I gained unexpected joy.
Sense of taste,It is easiest to awaken nostalgia and longing. After tasting the food, I still crave the taste,We call it "home".
In the view of Song Xingwen, the founder of "Shilou No. 1", the taste on the tip of the tongue is a kind of nostalgia. Chinese New Year is the most delicious reunion of the year and a mixed feeling of nostalgia.
This is also the reason why he, as a post-70s veteran outsider, recommended the sauce beef as the first representative dish of "Harbin New Year's Flavor", asked the old chef to demonstrate it, and shared the recipe.
When I was a child, my father, mother, and neighbors were all skilled in almost every family. When I was a child, on the Chinese New Year's Eve dinner table, smoked sauce must be indispensable. In Song Xingwen's view, this habit has also been passed down to the table of every Harbin person on Chinese New Year's Eve. Sauce beef, as a representative of Harbin smoked sauce, contains the deep emotions of Harbin people.
Harbin smoked sauce, as a local representative snack of Harbin, belongs to the northern school in the local snacks of smoked sauce in the country, and is developed in the old Taoist people. The development of Daowai smoked sauce can be traced back to the craftsmanship brought by Shandong people to come to the east to take root and settle in the old Daowai, and at the same time integrate the handicraft characteristics of Harbin locals, and finally form a taste that only belongs to Harbin people.
The technique of Harbin smoked sauce, every household has some of its own small doorways, some Chinese medicine materials are more, and some are more in pursuit of the original taste. "For example, I remember my father and mother making this sauced beef, and they rarely put medicine because it would rob the flavor of the beef. They are more seasoned with sugar and soy sauce. Therefore, the reason why Harbin smoked sauce is famous is also due to the high-quality soy sauce in Harbin. ”
Human migration has led to the meeting of ingredients, and gastronomy has inherited the taste memory and lifestyle of generations of a city.
As a director of the Harbin History and Culture Research Association of Heilongjiang Province, Song Xingwen compiled the first "Harbin Food Map" in Harbin in 2007. In order to explore the story behind the time-honored hotel, he collected more than 1,000 cultural relics such as plaques, bills, dishes, and eating utensils of the old Harbin hotel, and accidentally pieced together the life history of the city's residents for more than 100 years.
He has been committed to the development and restoration of the 2,000 old recipes of Harbin cuisine that have been excavated and sorted out. In his opinion, Harbin's smoked sauce is enough to truly record the history of population migration in Harbin during the period of population migration in the eastern part of Harbin with taste, and it is the "taste of mother" in the minds of Harbin people.
Nowadays, many local brands of smoked sauce meat have risen, constantly iterating the smoked sauce technique, and also brought Harbin smoked sauce out of Harbin and become the carrier of "Erbin" food symbols.
For Song Xingwen, smoked sauce is "Dad's taste". His father has been dead for many years, but every festival, Song Xingwen always remembers, "My father is a good cook, and the best thing is sauced beef."
So, he really wanted to share his "childhood taste" with us, even though "I may never taste that good again in my life".
Home is where life begins.
In fact, a person's whole life is on the way home. Every year during the Spring Festival, people who go out look for the taste of the New Year.
Under the same roof, make a fire, cook, and use food to unite the family and comfort the family.
People grow, love each other, part, reunite ......Home-cooked delicious, but also the taste of life. The ordinary pots and pans are full of ordinary people's ordinary lives.
After a short reunion, the children will set off again with their heavy bags.
The clutch of food witnesses the gathering and dispersion of people.
Harbin smoked sauce,
It was also stuffed into a bag by mothers.
Back with the "taste of nostalgia",
People are starting anew,
Run to the south and the north. Harbin ** reporterWang Kun Wen **Director
Wang Boyu **Filming and production
Zeng Qingling text ** shooting
Unauthorized prohibitions**
Editor in charge: Qiu Xue
Review: Gu Xiaodong
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