Unexpectedly, this year's Spring Festival Gala was quite well received.
Chunshan Learning", "Nigmaiti Playing Cards Didn't Match", "After watching the Xi'an Branch, the national pride reached its peak" and other hot spots made the audience happy.
In fact, there is only one reason, that is, the Spring Festival Gala program team finally took care of the preferences of the people.
And one of the shows gave the audience a big surprise.
"Nianjin".
Liu Tao, Liu Shishi, Li Qin, and Guan Xiaotong stood on the stage wearing Hanfu from different dynasties of Han, Tang, Song, and Ming, and led a group of Hanfu girls to bring a visual feast of traditional culture to the audience.
This can't help but remind people of the "Landscape Ni Dress" that caused a lot of scolding on the Spring Festival Gala in 2021.
Three years later, Hanfu finally gained further official recognition and was displayed in front of people all over the country and even the world.
Behind this is the blue thread of a movement called "Hanfu Revival" in the past 20 years.
Countless Hanfu lovers are not afraid of people's words and think of tradition, just to put the Han national costumes that have been stripped back on their bodies.
From being pointed at to being everywhere now, why did the revival of Hanfu come to this day, and what is their persistence for?
In 2003, a group of awakeners and practitioners of Han culture began to gather in a forum called Hanwang, and one of the things they exchanged was Hanfu.
As the traditional clothing of the Han nation, although Hanfu was driven into the corner of history in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, people have not forgotten its existence for hundreds of years.
In fact, as early as the ** period, some experts and scholars called for the revival of Hanfu.
Zhang Taiyan, the first person in modern Hanfu, likes to wear a collared shirt embroidered with the word "Han" on the chest, in addition, Qian Xuantong wears a "Xuanduan" office, Xia Zhenwu bundles his hair in a deep coat, and Zhang Daqian travels in Europe with wide robes and big sleeves, all of which are the inheritance of Hanfu.
It's just that the social turmoil at that time ended in the end.
At the beginning of the new century, the country and the people, the people, and the people, once again gave the opportunity for the revival of Hanfu.
As a result, the convergence of these people has also become the spark of the current road to the revival of Hanfu.
According to the sentence "How can it be said that there is no clothes, and the son is the same robe" in the "Book of Songs: Qin Feng", they called each other "Tongpao", and began to study ancient books and even make their own Hanfu and share it on the Internet.
In 2003, 19-year-old Wang Yuliang made his first Hanfu according to the style on the Hanwang forum, and made it public on the Internet on July 21, becoming the first person to publicly make his own Hanfu.
On November 22 of the same year, an electric worker named Wang Letian imitated the clothing style in the TV series "The Son of Heaven" and took to the streets of Zhengzhou with the help of Cai Wei Workshop, the first Hanfu merchant in China.
After the incident was reported by Singapore's "Lianhe Zaobao", it immediately attracted widespread attention at home and abroad.
And this became the first social public event that really promoted the revival of Hanfu.
People began to find out that there was still such a thing as Hanfu, and it turned out that there were so many stories behind Hanfu that should be remembered.
To put it simply, Hanfu is the clothing of the Han nation, which can be traced back to the period of the Yellow Emperor, the Zhou Dynasty was finalized, and a complete crown and clothing system was officially standardized in the Han Dynasty.
Although there were some changes in later dynasties, it basically retained the characteristics of handing over the right side and flat tailoring.
According to normal development, Hanfu should have been passed down to the present like the traditional costumes of Japanese and Korean peoples.
However, with the entry of Qing troops in the late Ming Dynasty, in order to weaken the sense of national identity of the Han people and maintain the rule of the Manchus, the Qing Dynasty began to implement the policy of "shaving hair and making it easy to wear".
Not only did they force the Han people, who had adhered to the principle of "their parents did not dare to damage their bodies" since they were children, to shave their hair into the Manchu "money rat tail" hairstyle, but they also did not allow ordinary people to wear Hanfu.
In order to implement this decree, the Qing army spared no means to carry out the 10th of Yangzhou, the 3th Massacre of Jiading, and the 81st of Jiangyin throughout the country.
After that, China was full of blood, only ruins in the north and south, thousands of miles of uninhabited, and the eyes were full of devastation.
Since then, Hanfu has disappeared from the daily life of Chinese until now.
If it's just a piece of clothing, it's not a pity to disappear from history.
But as a clothing system that has been inherited for thousands of years, the preciousness of Hanfu lies not only in its practicality, but also in its culture.
No matter which ethnic group's traditional costumes, because they are formed simultaneously with this nation, they are naturally closely related to the living habits and spiritual pursuits of the clansmen.
China has always called itself the "State of China", and it is written in "Zuo Chuan Justice: Ten Years of Dinggong": "China has great etiquette, so it is called Xia; There is the beauty of chapter uniforms, which is called Hua. ”
Therefore, Hanfu is not only synonymous with "well-dressed country", but also a part of the "state of etiquette".
The former is a piling up of aesthetic taste and craftsmanship.
Needless to say, the fabric technology and patterns have entered the realm, just look at the style of the praise clothes and belts, even the most ordinary fabrics, can also show soft and smooth lines in action, in order to reflect the Han nation's soft and comfortable, detached and calm national character, as well as subtle natural, elegant and fresh aesthetic taste.
The latter, on the other hand, is the manifestation of social structure and ideology.
We all know that ancient China paid attention to respect and humility etiquette, rules and laws, and Hanfu is the perfect carrier of these behaviors.
Not only the emperor's generals, officials, soldiers and civilians have their own specific clothing systems, but also have special clothing systems at key nodes in daily life, wearing sacrificial clothes during sacrifices, court clothes during court meetings, auspicious clothes for marriage, military uniforms from Rong, and fierce clothes for mourning.
Although these strict and cumbersome etiquette norms now seem to carry an extremely strong class imprint, in feudal society, they are indeed the embodiment of advanced culture.
Therefore, with the influence of Han culture, Hanfu has also spread to neighboring small countries, and the costumes of Japan, South Korea, Vietnam and other countries are also based on Hanfu, coupled with their own living habits, climate and environment imitation.
Therefore, when Wang Lotian and a group of pioneers pushed Hanfu to the front of the people, some people of insight learned about the past of their national traditional clothing.
History cannot be changed, but culture can be reborn.
As a result, a folk movement based on the revival of Hanfu and actually regaining the self-confidence of Chinese culture began to be carried out in the north and south of the country.
Like the development of anything, the road to the revival of Hanfu is also a parallel of hope and ups and downs.
Nowadays, when we look back at the beginning of the Hanfu movement, there is actually no decency.
Because the people who discussed the promotion of Hanfu at that time were just ordinary people, although they loved it, because most of them did not have so much economic strength, or simply found a purchase channel (online shopping has not yet become popular), and there was no too complete knowledge system.
Therefore, the empty slogans, and even if they have Hanfu, they are all extremely simple, do not conform to the shape, and even the style of the photo studio.
But it is precisely the foundation they have laid, building clubs and organizing activities in schools and society, that has become the burning thread of the Hanfu revival movement.
And after a long and chaotic preliminary exploration, the Hanfu revival movement finally began to have the end of the big guy.
In November 2007, a young scholar with the online name of the master of the Ming Dynasty founded the "Daming Clothing - Chinese Clothing History Forum", and released a large number of Q versions of Ming Dynasty clothing on it for propaganda and popularization.
Because of the exquisite and exquisite restoration in the picture, more people have a new understanding of the Ming ** ornament.
In March 2009, the Hanfu brand "Ming Huatang", which is dedicated to the restoration and research of Han national costumes, was officially registered in Hong Kong.
Because of the careful production, as well as the high degree of restoration of the fabric shape and pattern craftsmanship of the Ming ** decoration, the Hanfu produced by Ming Huatang has also become the favorite of many colleagues.
In October of the same year, the costume restoration team launched the first batch of original works based on ancient books, such as the Western Han Dynasty longevity pattern curved robe, the Sixteen Kingdoms Qi yarn skirt, and the early Tang Dynasty Lianzhu brocade half-arm Confucian skirt, which has since become a model benchmark in the Hanfu circle.
In addition to the fate of the big guy, Hanfu has also begun to be loved and promoted by some people with social influence.
In June 2013, Xu Jiaofang Wenshan appeared at the Shanghai International Film Festival wearing Hanfu, becoming the first star to wear Hanfu on the red carpet.
In November of the same year, Fang Wenshan launched the first Xitang Hanfu Culture Week, which has never been interrupted ever since.
However, compared with these positive news, due to the lack of popularization of knowledge, the public's impression of Hanfu in those years was still either fancy clothes or Japanese hanbok.
Therefore, when Hanfu takes to the streets, most of the people it faces are still misunderstandings and accusations.
On October 6, 2004, a group of comrades dressed in Hanfu went shopping on Wangfujing Street in Beijing.
I don't want to think that the next day, a forum in Beijing will be based on "Shroud on the Street? After many years of reform and opening up, feudal superstition on the streets", the title of "These people's ** put on the Internet.
also wrote: "Last night, 8 young people dressed in shrouds ......Walking to Wangfujing in shrouds, they hope to contribute to the revival of the traditional funeral industry. ”
And one thing that caused more controversy in society was the burning of Hanfu in Chengdu.
On the Chung Yeung Festival in October 2010, a girl dressed in opera was dining in Tex near Chunxi Road when she was suddenly besieged by a group of university students, claiming that she was wearing a kimono.
Even though she explained that she was wearing a Hanfu curly skirt, the other side completely lost her mind and kept threatening her to take off her clothes.
Eventually, she escaped the scene with clothes borrowed from a friend, and her beloved opera was burned down by the group of college students.
The sad thing about this incident is that both parties acted with a patriotic heart, but because of the poor information and the extreme psychology of one side, it eventually led to a disaster.
The controversy is varied and different, and even in the Hanfu circle, there is a dispute between the "reformists" and the "retro faction".
The former advocates that Hanfu should be "improved" into a form that conforms to modern elements to facilitate daily life;
The latter believes that Hanfu must be restored according to the shape of historical classics and existing unearthed cultural relics, otherwise it is nondescript.
And in addition to domestic obstacles, there is also foreign coveting.
With the revival of Hanfu, not only Malaysia has begun to pay attention to traditional culture, but Korea has also realized the power of culture.
Someone found that in the 2008 Korean historical drama "King Sejong", there was a large number of plagiarized content of the Ming Dynasty's clothes and crown drawn by the owner of Fangfang.
Since then, South Korea's copying of Chinese hanfu has become almost the norm.
However, such a noisy situation proves that the Hanfu movement is growing savagely, indicating that all non-governmental forces are working together to push "Hanfu" into the public eye.
The arrangement of history is sometimes such a coincidence.
The ancient Hanfu has been revitalized by relying on the most emerging technology, the Internet.
Wang Letian wore Hanfu on the street, and it was the first to spread through the Internet, and Hanfu lovers also united into a small circle through the Internet to communicate.
And now the blooming of Hanfu everywhere actually comes from the first-class growth of China's Internet.
When Hanfu was pushed to the front of hundreds of millions of people by the Internet, the ancestors began to display their own crushing aesthetics.
Nowadays, many people's love for Hanfu is actually the most simple and straightforward reasonPretty
Since I learned about Hanfu, because of "The Legend of the New White Lady", the girl who used a bed sheet to pretend to be a white lady finally has a reason to wear clothes as beautiful as in the play.
And because of the thousands of years of inheritance, the styles of Hanfu are extremely diverse, and each one has it.
The elegance and solemnity of the Qin and Han dynasties.
Wei Jin's handsome and chic.
The grace and luxury of the Tang system.
The elegance and subtlety of the Song system.
The dignified atmosphere of the Ming system.
There's always one that will hit your aesthetic.
At the same time, thanks to the development of e-commerce, there are a variety of Hanfu styles and sizes on the shopping platform.
And because of the increase in the number of purchases, the industry has gradually taken shape, the production cost has begun to decline, and the level of craftsmanship has gradually risen.
According to the data, in the first quarter of 2023 alone, the sales volume of China's Hanfu market will be about 36200 million yuan, a year-on-year increase of 154%。
The embarrassing situation of having nowhere to get even though colleagues loved Hanfu is finally gone.
And these hanfus, in addition to being worn daily and at traditional festivals, are also used for travel photography.
This is another major reason for the explosion of Hanfu.
At the moment when the country is rich and the people are strong, the cultural self-confidence of the Chinese is getting higher and higher, and this is the cultural orientation carried by Hanfu.
Wearing the clothes of my Han family, I am a state of etiquette.
Xi'an, Luoyang, Hangzhou and other old capitals have frequently become popular tourist cities, and men and women who love traditional culture or simply like to take photos have begun to wear Hanfu to travel to the local area.
In Xi'an, Shaanxi, girls wearing wide robes and big sleeves and fluttering clothes checked in the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and traveled to the Tang City that never sleeps; In Luoyang, Henan, you may be the only one on the bus wearing modern clothes; In Hangzhou, Zhejiang, tourists put on Hanfu to participate in the "Chenyue Lantern Festival" and tour the West Lake at night ......
Even abroad, there are more and more international students wearing Hanfu or taking to the streets, or attending ceremonies to promote Chinese culture.
The pursuit of beauty is always common, and on social platforms, some celebrities, Internet celebrities, and KOLs have also begun to wear Hanfu in their lives, shooting, and even activities, thus driving more people to know Hanfu and like Hanfu.
And in addition to top-down promotion, there is also infiltration from small to large.
Due to official recognition, many schools have now incorporated Hanfu into their daily curriculum.
When these children grow up, in their concept, Hanfu is no longer a fancy dress, but a national costume that is worn every day.
Not long ago, Dior's "plagiarism" of horse face skirt incident also made the horse face skirt, a Hanfu category, out of the circle.
Nowadays, both Hanfu lovers and ordinary people are proud to have a horse-faced skirt.
This also shows that Hanfu can be fully integrated into current life, but it has not been seen by more people.
It is conceivable that in the near future, Hanfu will eventually achieve the goal of the revival movement.
One is to integrate into everyday life.
More and more people are beginning to stop seeing Hanfu as an ancient costume, but as an ordinary piece of clothing that can be worn to do all kinds of down-to-earth things.
You can wear it to work, shopping, traveling, or even eating a barbecue at a roadside stall.
The other is that the Han culture carried by Hanfu is valued.
On November 12, 2004, Tianjin ** held a performance at the Tianjin Confucian Temple, the performance team wore Qing costumes, and some of the participants also wore Qing Dynasty official uniforms.
Fang Zhexuan (screen name "Tianya is in Xiaolou") tried to communicate with the organizers about this issue, but to no avail.
In desperation, she went to the side hall alone to change into Hanfu and came out to worship Confucius.
Although Fang Zhexuan's actions that day did not change the decision of the Tianjin Confucian Temple, it sparked widespread discussion online.
With the popularity of Hanfu, the Tianjin Confucian Temple finally began to use Hanfu in 2013 to hold a ceremony to worship Confucius.
We all say that we need to inherit culture, but inheriting culture requires carriers.
And Hanfu is one of the best carriers.
In his New Year's Eve speech in 2020, financial writer Wu Xiaobo once described today's Hanfu revival movement as follows:
In China today, there are 3 million hanfu lovers, with an average age of 18 to 24 years old. If it is a hand-embroidered Hanfu, ** is 8,000 to 20,000 yuan. Do you remember the post-60s and post-70s here? When we got paid after working, the first thing we did was to go to the mall and buy ourselves a suit, indicating that I was an adult and a modern person. Today a girl took her salary to buy a Hanfu, indicating that I am a Chinese. ”
Start with the clothes and reach Boyuan.
The revival of Hanfu is just the beginning, and we still have more ambitious goals.