A once in a lifetime pilgrimage to Mt. Nachi, on the Kumano Kodo

Mondo Social Updated on 2024-02-01

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There are two pilgrimage routes in the world that are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, one in Spain and one in Wakayama, Japan.

The pilgrimage route in Spain was the path of a devout apostulous apostle in the Middle Ages; The Kumano Kodo in Japan is the general name of the ancient Japanese royal family, nobles and people who went to the three mountains of Kumano [Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Speedama Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha], and is a 7 trail that runs through the mountains, primeval forests or rural villages and towns in the three prefectures of Wakayama, Mie and Nara in the southern part of the Kii Peninsula in Honshu, Japan.

A must-see on the Kii Peninsula in Wakayama, Japan, is the three shrines that are now very easily accessible.

Before introducing each shrine, let's take a look at their locations.

The following map is a map of the sacred sites and pilgrimage trails in the Kii Mountains, and you can clearly see that the three shrines are not close to each other.

In addition to walking, each shrine is accessible by bus, but the most convenient is located not far from ShinguKumano Speedama Taisha Shrine

My favorite is that I took a bus from Kii-Katsuura and hiked the mountain road of DamonzakaKumano Nachi Taisha Shrine

And the deepestKumano Hongu Taisha ShrineIt is located in the very center of the five pilgrimage paths and is also the most religious shrine.

To start the rest stop of the Kumano Kodo hike, we chose a small fishing port by the sea: Kii Katsuura.

From the bus stop in front of the station, you can take the Kumano Bus for half an hour directly to Nachi Taisha Shrine.

We chose to get off three stops early and hike the mountain road of Damonzaka.

"Damonzaka" is a classic 1-kilometer-long trail leading to Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine.

Take a bus bound for Mt. Nachi from Kii Katsuura and get off at Damonzaka Station, where you will find the entrance to this trail on the side of the road.

The first section of the road through the village is unremarkable, but suddenly, huge cedar trees begin to appear on both sides of the stone steps, and this beautiful mountain path that often appears in various magazines introducing the Kumano Kodo slowly unfolds.

On each side of the entrance, there is a huge cedar tree about 800 years old, which is the famous "couple cedar" on the gate saka. Passing through the cedar and continuing upward, you will find a century-old Japanese forest of cedars, cypresses, camphor trees, and bamboo.

For thousands of years, the mountainous region of Mystic Kumano has been considered a "sacred place where the gods live". And the first stop, Damonzaka Road, convinced me of this. Although the woods are dense, they are not gloomy and scary.

The roots of the trees cut through the stone steps beneath their feet, and the huge amount of life energy was visible to the naked eye.

Although I can only walk in a short period of 1 hour, the growth, death, and rebirth that have been nurtured here for thousands of years are not determined by human will, and human beings are too small under the charm of nature.

A combination of Shinto and Buddhist architecture

After walking for about 1 hour on the gate saka, you will reach the exit, and there is still a steep climb to Nachinasha.

At the end of the stairs is the Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine with a bright orange background and a white background.

Nachi Taisha Shrine and the adjoining Seigishi-ji Temple are one of the few shrines and temples in Japan that stand side by side.

A shrine and a temple were once combined to become a place of worship for traditional Japanese Shinto and foreign Buddhist believers.

In the 19th century, Meiji** forced the separation of gods and Buddhas, but to this day, the two shrines are still connected, which shows that there should be harmony in nature.

An 850-year-old sacred camphor tree

In front of the Nachi Taisha Shrine, there is a huge camphor tree. The branches stretch out and even extend above the roof of the shrine.

This nearly 1,000-year-old tree is enshrined as a sacred tree. There is a natural hollow in the trunk of the tree, and for a small fee, you can burrow into it and feel the breath of the ancient.

Because of its longevity, the camphor tree is revered in Japan and becomes an eternal, spiritual being.

In Hayao Miyazaki's film My Neighbor Totoro, Totoro, the god of nature, calls a giant camphor tree home.

In many ancient temples in Japan, you can see camphor trees or other ancient trees being enshrined, which also confirms the saying that there are eight million gods in the hearts of the Japanese.

See the majestic Nachi Waterfall from near and far

After visiting the Nachi Taisha Shrine and Seigandoji Temple, you will walk deeper into the mountain and see the beautiful Nachi Waterfall cascading down from the high mountain in a few steps.

Nachi Waterfall is slender and soft compared to the various huge waterfalls in China, but it exists not because of the magnificent scenery in nature, but because of its religious significance.

Nachi Taisha Shrine + Seokandu Temple were both built to worship Nachi Falls.

On the way from Aogando Temple to Nachi Falls, you can enjoy it from different angles, especially the picture framed with the orange-red triple stupa, which is also one of the spots that represent the Kumano Kodo**.

From the entrance of Nachi Falls, you will find a steep stone staircase path in the forest, and at the bottom of the road, you will find a deep pool and Hitaki Shrine below Nachi Falls.

For 300 yen, you can enter the Hitaki Shrine Observation Deck, where you can see the waterfall up close and feel the water splash on your face.

And the 300 yuan ticket turned out to be a flying dragon shrine to extend the life of the imperial guard.

Kii Katsuura Station - Daimonzaka (1h) - Nachi Taisha Shrine + Aogando Temple (1h) - Nachi Falls (1h) - Kii Katsuura (4-5 hours in total)

1) There is a tourist information center and restrooms after getting off the bus at Daimonzaka. It is recommended to go to the toilet and get a map of the Kumano Kodo first, and after leaving the station, you will need to walk to Nachiyama to have a toilet.

2) Leave the station and walk to the "Damonzaka Chaya" on the road, where you can rent clothes from the Heiankyo period. It costs about 3,000 yen for 2 hours and 4,500 yen for 3 hours.

3) In front of the teahouse is the entrance to Damonzaka.

4) Transportation. Kii Katsuura: By bus, get off at Nachiyama bus stop for about 30 minutes.

The previous stop is Nachi no Taki Station, which is a station heading to Nachi Falls.

Get off at the third to last station [Daimonzaka] station and hike up the mountain from Daimonzaka.

Shingu Station: Take a bus and get off at [Shrine-jimae] bus stop for 15 minutes.

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