At the beginning of the year, look at the first line Flowers hit with the Red Gang tailor? The Re

Mondo Social Updated on 2024-02-01

CCTV Ningbo News on January 10 (Reporter Zhang Wenwen, Chen Jinlian, Yu Ye) "Wear a suit to wear clothes, don't let clothes wear people; To see from afar, to see closely, to stand and look good, to walk up to look good, this is the 'spirit'. Recently, the TV series "Flowers" was on the air, and when preparing for the "line", the actor asked the Ningbo Red Gang tailor to customize a set of suits, and his temperament instantly changed from a street youth to an elegant gentleman. Outside the play, the Red Gang tailor has once again become the focus of all parties.

Where is the "Spirit" of the Red Gang Tailor?

After watching the drama, many people want to come to a set of "Bao Zong's same style", recently, Ningbo Fenghua Wang Xingchang clothing store**, has become the same suit booking**. On January 9, the reporter met Mr. Sun, who had come from Qingdao to customize a suit, in the store.

I think the service is very thoughtful and meticulous, and when we made suits in the past, we didn't have so much energy, including arms and legs, so I think the effect will be very close to the body, especially good. Mr. Sun told reporters that he always walks with Bao, engaged in import and export, and this time customized the same "double-breasted" suit in the play, "I learned that the Red Gang tailor has been inherited for a hundred years, and I am looking forward to the effect of ready-to-wear." ”

Where is the "Spirit" of the Red Gang Tailor? In the drama "Flowers", only the choice of suit fabrics is very particular: "Suits must be made of materials ......."Summer, Peris, Van Lidin; In winter, flannel, billet, and shevy. Wang Xiaofang, the sixth-generation head of Wang Xingchang's dress, told reporters that the choice of fabric is very important, and he will generally communicate with customers first to understand what kind of work the other party is engaged in, what kind of occasion it is necessary to wear suits, and then recommend fabrics according to personal body shape.

Wang Xiaofang is selecting fabrics for customers (photo by CCTV reporter Zhang Wenwen).

After the fabric is chosen, the next step is to see the Red Gang tailors show their skills. In the practice of 100 years, the Red Gang tailors have explored the process ideas with "four skills", "nine potentials" and "sixteen characters" as the core, and formed skills such as "visual mental arithmetic, special shape correction, renovation and hole filling".

Wang Xiaofang said that the four skills refer to knife skills, hand skills, machine skills, and hot skills, among which, the "knife skills" with the cutting principle as the core and the "hand skills" represented by the needle method are the most complex, and the "hot skills" characterized by pushing, returning, and pulling are the most effective. The nine potentials are the nine styling characteristics of different parts of the human body summarized by the tailors of the Red Gang, and the sixteen-character formula reflects the standard of the effect of ready-to-wear, corresponding to the "nine potentials".

Customers try on and adjust (photo provided by the interviewee).

There is a saying in the Red Gang industry, "Sufficient processing materials, fine workmanship, never out of shape", which is their commitment to customers. Wang Xiaofang told reporters that the customization cycle of a suit generally takes 35 days, during which it has to go through two try-ons and adjustments. Taking the sample as an example, if you want to make the clothes that best fit the customer's body, it is difficult to do it in one step, and you must try on semi-finished products. The conventional sample is divided into two "hairy shells" and "smooth shells", and the difficult ones need four or five times.

In the past few days, the customization ** in Wang Xiaofang's store has begun to sound at half past six in the morning, and sometimes there are customers who come to consult at one or two o'clock in the morning, and the orders have been scheduled for the new year, "I have to work overtime recently." Wang Xiaofang said.

The "Red Gang Tailor" of the new era

The first set of tunics, the first suit, the first suit shop, the first suit school, and the first suit theory book, Ningbo "Red Gang Tailor" created 5 firsts in the history of Chinese clothing.

Among these "firsts", the figure of "Rong Changxiang" cannot be ignored. In 1910, Wang Caiyun opened the most luxurious three-storey and ten-room "Rong Changxiang" velvet suit on Nanjing Road in Shanghai at that time, becoming the most famous professional clothing store in Shanghai. In 1916, it began to operate as a sole proprietorship. Sun Yat-sen, Zhang Taiyan, Mei Lanfang and other celebrities have come here to make suits.

The sewing machine in the exhibition hall of "Rong Changxiang" (photo by Zhang Wenwen, reporter of CCTV).

After a hundred years, today's "Rongchangxiang" has developed in inheritance and innovated in inheritance. "At present, we are mainly engaged in foreign trade exports, online e-commerce and advanced customization. Wang Guanjie, general manager of Ningbo Rongchangxiang clothing Co., Ltd., introduced that the company has established a high-end workshop for more than 20 years, and at present, the output value of the high-end workshop can reach 6,000 pieces a year.

Especially in October every year, it is the busiest time for our high-end workshop, because there are usually more people who get married in October, and many people will choose to customize a set of dresses. Wang Guanjie told reporters.

Rong Changxiang" high-end workshop (photo by CCTV reporter Zhang Wenwen).

While maintaining the original intention, "Rongchangxiang" is also constantly innovating. With the development of science and technology, more fabrics to choose from, more accurate measurements, and more exquisite skills ......To bring customers a customized experience that takes into account both aesthetics and comfort. "Through three years of research and development and experimentation, the master of our high-end workshop has also developed a new technology - fabric cold and heat treatment technology, after this technology, the suit can be machine washed without shrinkage. ”

Recently, Wang Guanjie has also been paying attention to the drama "Flowers", and many friends have contacted him to customize suits. "The era of industrialization has brought ready-to-wear into the stage of mass production and large-scale production, but there are still many customers who insist on customizing suits. Wang Guanjie said, "The service is sincere and thoughtful, and the skills and skills are exquisite, and we will continue to inherit and carry forward the skills and spirit of the century-old Red Gang." ”

The "Red Gang Spirit" has always been

With just a pair of scissors, an iron and a tape measure, how did a Red Gang tailor create a fashion legend? "Dare to be the first, proficient in skills, integrity and commitment, diligence and dedication", Feng Yingzhi, director of the Red Gang Culture Research Institute of Zhejiang Textile and Garment Vocational and Technical College, gave a definition of the "Red Gang Spirit", which is still shining after a hundred years.

Rong Changxiang" high-end workshop (photo by CCTV reporter Yu Ye).

Ningbo dress, makeup world", since the reform and opening up, the new era of "Red Gang Tailors" who have inherited the "Red Gang Spirit" has shown their strength. A large number of clothing giants such as Shanshan, Youngor, Luomeng, Aiyimei, and Peacebird have risen in Ningbo and have been at the top of the sales list all year round.

How to pass on the "Red Gang Spirit" to the "New Red Gang"? In Zhejiang Textile and Garment Vocational and Technical College, the inheritance of Red Gang culture is a - the establishment of the Red Gang Culture Research Institute; It is a lesson - to carry out the teaching of Red Gang culture courses; It is a corridor - a platform for the display of Red Gang culture on campus; Relying on the China-CEEC Vocational College Industry and Education Alliance, the Red Gang clothing skills workshops have been successively implemented in Bulgaria and Serbia, so that the Red Gang culture can spread to all over the world.

The Red Gang Clothing Skills Workshop was unveiled in Serbia (Photo courtesy of Zhejiang Textile and Garment Vocational and Technical College).

In terms of skill inheritance, it is necessary to combine the handicraft skills of the traditional Red Gang culture with the current advanced technologies such as digitalization; In terms of cultural inheritance, schools, enterprises and other parties need to work together to make the genes of the Red Gang culture deeply rooted in young students and make the Red Gang culture endless. Feng Yingzhi said.

For a long time, Ningbo attaches great importance to the development of the garment industry and builds it as one of the six 100-billion-level industrial clusters. At present, Ningbo has 860 enterprises above the designated size, 9 listed companies, and 6 national individual champion enterprises, and has formed an industrial system with complete categories and advanced technology such as textile fibers, high-end fabrics, clothing, decoration, machinery and equipment, etc., and its comprehensive strength ranks first in the country. From January to November 2023, the output value of enterprises in Ningbo's fashion textile and garment industry will reach 1153700 million yuan.

Since 1997, the prosperity of Ningbo's garment industry has given birth to the "Ningbo International Garment Festival", which has been held for 27 sessions. The people of Ningbo, who inherit the skills and spirit of "Red Gang Tailors", are leading the city and the industry into a new era, and the rise of "Global Capital of Intelligent Manufacturing and Innovation" and "Oriental Coastal Fashion Capital" is accelerating.

For more exciting information, please refer to the application market** "Central Radio Network" client. Welcome to provide news clues, 24-hour report**400-800-0088;Consumers can also complain online through the "Woodpecker Consumer Complaint Platform" of CCTV. Copyright Notice:The copyright of this article belongs to the Central Radio Network, and it is not allowed to be unauthorized **. Please contact: cnrbanquan@cnrWe will be held accountable for not respecting the original.

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