At the beginning of the Lunar New Year, China's microecological anti-aging field ushered in an important breakthrough!
As we all know, since the seventies and eighties of the last century, microecological skin care has grown from a small branch in microecology to a scientific skin care target that many international giants, Chinese enterprises, institutions and universities have focused on and studied in depth, and is regarded by industry insiders as one of the fields with the most development space and research depth in the future.
As a local brand in China, Dr. Er, a subsidiary of Freda, has built the first ** strain resource bank in China, established the first ** microecological scientific skin care platform in China, promulgated the ** microecology and ** health expert consensus, and then took the lead in drafting the first domestic cosmetics ** microecology evaluation guide Microbiome (amplicon sequencing) [1], in-depth research on the correlation between microbiota and ** physiological parameters research and application, and crack the secret of functional bacteria. It has not only become the most representative and leading local brand in the domestic microbial skin care track, but also truly entered the deep water area of scientific research in this field.
On February 19th, Dr. Maier used a new product launch conference to show the whole industry the brand's blockbuster research progress in the field of microecological skin care, revealing a set of high-end anti-aging new paradigms targeting the best microecology behind the new product "Flash Charge Water Emulsion".
What is the most cutting-edge research direction in the field of microecological skin care? The answer may be: to achieve ** anti-aging from the perspective of microecology.
However, even in the international field, there are few research results related to microecological anti-aging. Professor Ma Laiji, an expert in microecology, said that although there are some studies on the correlation between aging and microecology, they have not yet been implemented at the level of applied research.
A 2022 international study showed that the microbiota structure changes significantly with age, such as a significant decrease in P. acnes and a significant increase in species such as Roche [2]. Another study showed that the friendliness of some strains such as streptococcus and staphylococci to ** also reversed with age. [3] In addition, there are also clear studies that show that changes in the structure of the microbiota can cause inflammatory aging in the body, and microecological disorders have a crucial relationship with immunity and inflammation.
Therefore, Dr. Maier wants to truly find anti-aging targets from the perspective of microecology and come up with solutions, which is tantamount to a leap from 0 to 1. So, what exactly did Dr. Maier's R&D team do?
Dr. Li Yan, R&D director of Dr. Er, said that in the first step, the team found out the "young bacteria" and "aging bacteria" that affect the ** microecology through the real Chinese ** microbiota big data.
It is understood that in order to find the microflora strongly related to aging, Dr. Aier conducted a study on the correlation between physiological parameters and microflora of a total of 242 healthy Chinese women, and divided these groups into three groups according to age: 18-25 years old, 26-35 years old, and 36-45 years old.
At the same time, the physiological parameters such as ** moisture content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), oil, elasticity, roughness and other physiological parameters were detected, and the facial flora of the subjects was collected and analyzed for related data. 17 physiological parameters and 23 different strains with high abundance were used to do the study, and finally three major results were obtained:
1. Dr. Aier's research team first found that with the increase of age, the physiological parameters and bacteria have changed greatly, especially the microflora: the richness of the microflora increases and the secondary metabolism increases.
2. Discovery of the "senescent bacterium" Pseudomonas. Its abundance increased significantly in the process of increasing age, and showed a significant correlation with the decline of firmness and elasticity, after a series of "decryption" such as DNA sequencing, the strain has been included in the Chinese strain resource bank, it is understood that this is also the only one that has been entered into the national strain resource bank from the Chinese women's healthy population "senescent bacteria".
3. Discovery of the "young bacteria" Propionibacterium. Its abundance will decline with age, and the R&D team screened it and found that it has the characteristics of scavenging free radicals and producing short-chain fatty acids, which can provide lipid balance and promote collagen growth.
Based on these basic research results, Dr. Maier has obtained an important basic argument: the microbiome can be used as a new target for the anti-aging track.
As a next step, Dr. Maier began to research and develop cosmetic ingredients that can inhibit "aging bacteria" and improve "young bacteria".
We found that Dr. Maier's self-developed ingredient 'Probiotic Fermented Algae' is very good at inhibiting aging bacteria, and the polyols and corresponding oils that we have screened for cosmetics development can also inhibit it very well. Applying these results to the product can promote the increase of young bacteria, inhibit the growth of aging bacteria, and do anti-aging from the microecological target, so that the microbiota structure of the entire aging state can reach a young microecology. Li Yan said.
At the same time, the R&D team also made additions on the basis of the young microecology, and successively achieved the effect of improving the physiological state of aging from the perspective of strengthening the ** barrier or strengthening the epidermal connection layer and the anti-aging of the dermis, and finally formed a new path to improve aging.
Taking microecology as a skin care target for the anti-aging track is actually a new paradigm of high-end anti-aging. She believes that "the so-called new paradigm of high-level anti-aging is to change the aging microecology into a youthful state on the basis of combining the improvement of the physiological state, and finally achieve the simultaneous change of the microecology and the physiological state." ”
In three years, Dr. Maier handed over a heavy answer sheet in the scientific research of microecological skin care.
At the press conference, the landing product of Dr. Aier's microecological anti-aging research, Flash Charge Water Emulsion, was also unveiled. "Fbeauty Future Traces" found that from the three levels of composition, form and skin feel, this new set of water emulsion has made a comprehensive upgrade.
First of all, from the perspective of ingredients, the product adds the exclusive patented ingredient of "5% probiotic fermented brown algae", the collagen combination of recombinant collagen and adenosine, and the "ten peptides" ingredient with superconducting decapeptide technology, which can achieve anti-aging from three dimensions.
It is understood that "probiotic fermented brown algae" is a compound ingredient containing more than four components such as polysaccharides, oligosaccharides, amino acids, small peptides and glutathione, which has a variety of skin care effects such as strong microecology, repair, anti-wrinkle, and anti-oxidation. It was obtained by Dr. Aier's R&D team through "double probiotic fermentation technology", and obtained a national patent in 2018 (a method for preparing seaweed fermentation broth by probiotic fermentation and the application of the seaweed fermentation broth in cosmetics, patent number: CN108653059A).
This ingredient was first used in Dr. Eyre's anti-gravity emulsion launched in 2021, and the concentration of the ingredient has been increased in this upgraded version of the product, Flash Charge Emulsion.
The collagen combination of 17kda small molecule recombinant human collagen and adenosine can ensure that collagen penetrates into the dermis through the skin in a 1+1 2 way and has a long-lasting effect. In addition, with the addition of the "decapeptide" ingredient with superconducting decapeptide technology, superconducting decapeptide technology is the first supramolecular peptide in China's beauty market, and after comparing with the data of ordinary molecular weight peptides, it is found that the permeability has increased by 107%。
Secondly, in terms of shape and skin feel, Flash Water has developed skin care water with essence-level standards, and the overall efficacy can be compared with essences and creams, which can provide consumers with a skincare experience with a streamlined process but no reduction in efficacy; In terms of product texture, microcapsule technology is used to achieve a 97:3 water-oil ratio, and the overall texture is closer to the essence, forming a refreshing and non-greasy skin feeling.
Dong Tiantian, product director of Freda, emphasized that the flash water emulsion will be a set of brand symbolic core products, Dr. Aier with nearly one million real user feedback as insight, with the exclusive ingredients empowered by science and technology as the core, this set of products not only reflects Dr. Aier's keen insight into product innovation and consumer needs, but also an important breakthrough in the field of microecological anti-aging.
The upgraded flash rechargeable emulsion has a great improvement in efficacy compared to the first generation of products (i.e., anti-gravity emulsion) from both in vitro model testing and human testing. Li Yan added, "The test data shows that before and after the use of the upgraded flash water emulsion, the abundance of aging bacteria on the surface of the human body is significantly reduced, the abundance of young bacteria is increased, and the anti-wrinkle, moisturizing and repair abilities are enhanced by 2-3 times in the improvement of physiological state." ”
Behind every product upgrade and scientific research achievements of Dr. Aier, it is the scientific research personnel who work day and night, which is also the soul of Dr. Aier's product quality and product innovation. Gao Chunming, member of the Party Committee and deputy general manager of Lushang Freda, and general manager of Freda Biological Co., Ltd., said. Judging from the test results, the new flash-filled water emulsion is also a high-quality landing result of the new paradigm of microecological anti-aging.
From probiotic emulsion, anti-gravity emulsion to flash-filled emulsion, Dr. Maier has been working hard to maximize the value of basic research and link to applied research, and maximize the results of basic research research into product development. It is this kind of thinking that has allowed it to embark on a sustainable development path for a scientific and technological skin care brand.
According to the "Microecological Anti-Aging***" jointly released by Beauty Practice, Dr. Aier, Shanghai Daily Chemicals Association, TMIC and other industry institutions and associations, the market size of microecological anti-aging products will be nearly 5.5 billion in 2023, doubling from 2022. Nearly 7,000 brands of microecological anti-aging products have entered the market, an increase of 37% year-on-year.
At the same time, in the past three years, the application of microecological ingredients in skin care products has increased from 23% to nearly 26%, and the attention of products has also increased significantly. All kinds of data prove that the microecological skin care market has entered a period of rapid growth.
Much of the impetus behind this comes from the basic research of leading companies in the field.
Among them, representative international companies such as L'Oreal, Johnson & Johnson, COSMAX, DSM Firmenich, and Chinese local cosmetics companies such as Freda have set up relevant teams and carried out large-scale clinical studies, applied for various patents, and published them in authoritative journals, providing a solid scientific foundation for the research and development of microecological skin care products and boosting the application of microecology in the field of cosmetics.
Among these companies, Freda may be one of the companies with the fastest research speed, the highest efficiency and the highest degree of systematization from 0 to 1 in basic research, applied research and standard setting.
As early as the end of 2019, Dr. Yaer and Shanghai Institute of Technology completed the big data project of "Research and Application of Correlation between Microbiota and Physiological Parameters", and had basic research based on the microecology of Chinese. Subsequently, in 2021, the world's first special book "Microecology" that comprehensively expounds the microecology was released, and the following year it established a microecological scientific skin care platform to realize a platform-based research system from scientific research theory, human body data, formula technology to market application, and began to work on standardization in the field of microecology in 2023.
Under these in-depth research on microecology, Freda has applied for more than 20 invention patents related to microecology; He has published more than 10 international SCI papers related to microecology, and his research results have won 3 national and provincial scientific and technological progress awards, and many strains such as "Staphylococcus epidermidis CCSM0287" have been included and preserved by the General Microbiology Center of the National China Microbial Strain Collection and Management Committee.
Combined with the above basic research and market insight of the microecology, Freda has created a complete "microecological scientific skin care industry chain" composed of the front-end probiotic functional raw material matrix and the back-end based on the product research and development of the microecology based on the macroecology based on the basic research and market insight of the microecology.
In the past six years, Dr. Maier has continued to unlock 'firsts' and explore the field of microecology with a newborn calf mentality that is not afraid of tigers," said Bai Baiming, deputy general manager of Shandong Freda Biological Co., Ltd. It is understood that after completing the "first five-year plan" in the field of microecological skin care research ahead of schedule, Dr. Maier's second five-year plan is about to be opened, continuing to expand his territory in this field.
1] Group standard for microbiome (amplicon sequencing) (standard number: T CHCIA 0012-2023).
2]ryan caldwell. strains to go: interactions of the skin microbiome beyond its species. doi: 10.1016/j.mib.2022.102222；aurelia santoro. microbiomes other than the gut: inflammaging and age-related diseases. doi: 10.1007/s00281-020-00814-z
3]zichao li. new insights into the skin microbial communities and skin aging. doi: 10.3389/fmicb.2020.565549
Written by Wu Sixin.
Proofread by Li Lin.