Stepping into the Forbidden City, the eaves of the corridor are flying, the colorful paintings are gorgeous, and it is a lively and extraordinary scene. However, under this magnificent exterior, there are countless secrets that no one knows.
The strips of white cloth worn around the necks of Qing Dynasty concubines are one of the elusive symbols. What exactly does it represent? What kind of story is hidden?
In the early years of the Qing Dynasty, the concubines were dressed very simply, unlike the complicated dress of the Ming Dynasty, their necks were not decorated and were exposed. This is consistent with Manchu customs, but under the influence of Confucian culture, it is considered immoral. So during the Shunzhi years, a new kind of accessory appeared - that is, the strips of white cloth we see today.
This strip of white cloth was called "Longhua", and its original function was to cover the neck and keep warm, and it was very popular with the Manchu court. The new promise can only wear a plain white Longhua, and the nobles and above can be decorated with simple patterns. The appearance of Longhua also symbolizes the changes of the times when the Qing Dynasty's clothing tended to be conservative and began to be influenced by Confucian etiquette.
As the emperor of the early Qing Dynasty, Emperor Shunzhi was deeply influenced by Han culture, and he also hoped to reflect the concept of "well-dressed models" of the Han people in his clothing. At that time, the Han scholars and doctors had a lot of complaints about the dress of Manchu women with their chests and necks exposed, and Emperor Shunzhi issued a new order to establish Longhua in order to reduce ethnic disputes and also for the consideration of "changing customs and customs". This kind of accessory that covers the neck kills two birds with one stone, which not only reflects the will of great unification, but also makes the Manchu and Han Dynasty have a unified standard.
At first, Longhua was just an ordinary white cloth, but the Manchu women loved and hated this new decoration. They liked the warmth of Longhua, but hated it for restricting the right to dress freely.
Seeing that Han women can choose the color match as they like, Manchu women can only be confined to the lifeless white, and they will inevitably complain in their hearts. But for the sake of the emperor and the family's face, they could only endure the pain. In the Shunzhi Dynasty, Longhua was properly wrapped around the neck of every concubine from the beginning to later, witnessing the helplessness and compromise in this historical change.
Longhua seems simple, but it hides an extremely important identification role - it has become a symbol to identify the identity and status of concubines. The emperor's harem has three thousand beauties, and the pattern on the dragon can make him recognize the identity of a concubine at a glance.
The simplest strip of white cloth represents the promise of the new palace, and the flower and plant patterns such as the four gentlemen show that she has become a nobleman. Those who dare to embroider peonies can only be the queen. The Queen Mother often chooses auspicious decorations such as the word "Fu". In this way, the emperor could know the hierarchy in the harem and avoid mistakes when canonizing and summoning.
It is not difficult for us to imagine that the emperors of the Manchu Dynasty had to face the number of harem beauties that are difficult to count. In the Kangxi Dynasty alone, there were thousands of concubines. They have their own charms, but the emperor wants to distinguish their identities one by one, which is really beyond the reach of manpower. The emergence of Longhua just makes up for this problem.
Through the different colors and patterns of Longhua, the emperor could quickly judge whether the beauty in front of him was new to the palace or had already been favored. New concubines in their twenties usually wore white or light purple dragons without any ornamentation.
This means that she is still a promise without status. As for the noble-level concubine in her thirties, her Longhua is darker in color and embellished with simple flower and plant patterns. At a glance, the emperor could guess her approximate identity.
This made it convenient for the emperor to quickly identify people's names and identities in the complicated affairs of the harem, avoiding embarrassment. The harem concubines also used Longhua to know the level of their companions, and the new young man promised to know how to get along with the nobles politely, and the palace maids could also follow the top in turn to avoid overstepping the level. It can be said that Longhua has become the best helper to identify the hierarchical order of the harem.
With the changes of the times, Longhua has also gradually transformed from the initial shelter to a tool to display decoration and identity. During the Qianlong period, the colors and patterns of Longhua tended to be rich, and it was no longer plain white. The concubines competed for beauty, and the peonies and peonies embroidered on Longhua attracted people's attention.
The style of Longhua has also been improved day by day - from the original separate collar to the stand-up collar integrated with the top, which fits the line of the body. The queens of different periods, Longhua, left their own marks: soft and dignified or gorgeous and extravagant, all of which show their personalities.
In the middle of the eighteenth century, with the height of the Qing Dynasty's national power, court art also reached its peak. This affects the style and function of Longhua. As a necessary accessory for concubines, it must also keep pace with the times, from monotonous white cloth to exquisite and gorgeous. This provides a great opportunity for concubines who are looking for beauty.
They began to paint colors on the dragon and add embroidery for novelty. Some embroidered peonies imply nobility, and some choose flowers to imply auspiciousness. There are also wearers who directly embroider their names on Longhua, so that the emperor can know which concubine she is at a glance.
In addition to the richer visual effects, the addition of decorative dragons also gave the concubines the opportunity to express themselves through delicate needlework, or to curry favor with the emperor.
In the late Qing Dynasty, Longhua was completely a fashion accessory for concubines to show their respective tastes and identities. They frequently order new Longhua and constantly bring forth the new. This is contrary to the original design of Longhua, but marks the progress of the times.
From the Ming Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, from simple to gorgeous, Hua has undergone changes and witnessed the rise and fall of the feudal court. It is not only a symbol of imperial power, but also the sustenance of the concubines who are shackled.
In 1911, the Qing Dynasty collapsed, and China's more than 2,000-year-old feudal imperial system came to an end. Longhua, the object that restricts concubines, also follows the historical stage. **Later, women finally liberated their spirit and body, and Longhua could only be reduced to a historical witness in the museum.
Gone are the days when concubines wore dragons, replaced by women's freedom in clothing and life. This also indicates that China has entered a new era of modern civilization. We see that the secret of Longhua is not only beautiful, but also that it opens a window of history.
After the fall of the Qing Dynasty, China went through a turbulent period of warlord warfare and Japanese invasion of China, until the birth of New China. In the past nearly a century, Chinese women have also experienced unprecedented emancipation. From topless and backless to bound feet, to today's freedom of dress, women have come a long way.
Longhua no longer exists, but we must not forget the imprint of the times it once reflected. Clothing no longer defines a woman's value, but equality and freedom still need to be defended together.
Looking back at history, not for nostalgia, but for absorbing the strength to move on. When we go through the ups and downs, we will finally see the day when the flowers bloom.
Behind the gorgeous clothes, there are untold stories hidden in the past. In today's red dust, we should also remind ourselves: don't be deceived by appearances, and dare to discover the truth behind things. Inquiry full of wisdom and courage is the key to understanding the world.