Editor's note:Whether you wear new Chinese clothes or not, I believe you must have heard a little about horse face skirts! Not only are celebrities vying to wear its upper body first, but it also beats popular items such as jackets and military coats to become the top ten commodities in 2023. This skirt, which was originally only popular in the Hanfu circle, why did it start to become popular outside the circle? I recommend you read this article to see what are the reasons for the popularity of horse face skirts.
In 2024, the horse-faced skirt is a little hot.
Even if you've never bought one, you've probably seen other people wearing horse-faced dresses on the street, on the subway, or in the mall.
The horse-faced skirt, which used to exist only in the Hanfu circle, is entering the wardrobe of outsidersBecome a popular item for fashion wear. According to CCTV News, during the Spring Festival this year, Cao County, Shandong, as the production and sales base of Hanfu, sold more than 300 million New Year's clothes for the Year of the Dragon, which is dominated by horse-faced skirtsFactories are working overtime and still can't keep up with the speed of orders. How popular is the horse face skirt? Among the many Hanfu elements, why is the horse-faced skirt so out of the circle? Who caught the heat of the horse-faced skirt?
Defeat the Jacket and OvercoatThe horse-faced skirt became a dark horse
Many people's perception of the popularity of horse face skirts starts from social **.
Open Xiaohongshu, in addition to the jackets and yoga pants that the middle class loves to wear, horse-faced skirts also appear under the topics related to daily wearLet the little red book girl call "Hualiu is the top stream".
The horse-faced skirt is a type of Hanfu, developed from the rotary skirt of the Song Dynasty, originally designed to facilitate women to ride a donkey, and later evolved and improvedIt has evolved from a traditional costume to a fashion item. The current horse-faced skirt is not only good-looking, but also very worker-friendly: in order to prevent **, a concealed buckle design has been added to the skirt door, and an inner pocket has been added to the skirt pleats in order to facilitate the loading of things.
As of the end of February 2024, the number of Xiaohongshu's "horse face skirt" notes exceeded 1.05 millionAnd it has maintained a month-on-month growth trend over the past year. Under the relevant notes, the Chinese women who want to link in their lives have gone out and left messages "squatting shop" and "is there a link",The horse-faced skirt has gradually stepped out of the Hanfu circle and has become a daily item that can be purchased by non-Hanfu lovers.
The popularity of the horse face skirt spread quickly on social ** and soon translated into an increase in sales. In 2023, Tmall Double 11, ** sold more than 730,000 horse-faced skirts. Under this popularity, the horse-faced skirt was also rated as the top ten products in 2023defeated the jackets and military coats that earned enough eyeballs last year and became the first place in the clothing category. The horse-faced skirt ran all the way, driving Hanfu on the Tao clothing platformIt has grown into a market with annual sales of nearly 10 billion. At the end of 2023, ** will be singled out of the "national costume" of Hanfu and become an independent second-level category, and further divided into 5 subcategories: Hanfu tops, Hanfu pants, Hanfu suits, Hanfu skirts, and Hanfu dresses.
According to Mojing Insight data, the sales of Hanfu skirts in January 2024 will exceed 300 million, accounting for nearly 9% of the entire Hanfu categoryAnd the main commodity of Hanfu skirts is horse-faced skirts.
Key points of the horse-faced skirt out of the circle:Hanfu is moving towards regular service
Although the horse face skirt has gone through a history of more than a thousand years,But from being unpopular to being out of the circle, it is a matter of these two years.
The Dior plagiarism incident in 2022 has become a turning point on the road to the horse-faced skirt out of the circle, and after that, the recovery of the horse-faced skirt can be roughly divided into two stages:From consciously protecting traditional culture, to unconsciously integrating into everyday wear.
Not long after the plagiarism incident, actor Xu Jiao wore a horse-faced skirt on the red carpet of the closing ceremony of the Golden Rooster Awards, and many international students also spontaneously wore horse-faced skirts to attend the graduation ceremony"The best way to protect is to wear it out" became the revival slogan of the horse-faced skirt.
By now, the national sentiment stirred up by the plagiarism incident has gradually subsided, but the horse-faced skirt has received wider attention, and the possible reason is,Some celebrities have incorporated horse-faced skirts into their private clothes and become the wild spokespersons of horse-faced skirts.
Yang Mi and Xu Jiao's horse-faced skirts are worn, **Internet) As soon as the star gets on his body, the marketing account seizes the topic, drives the tap water to join the discussion and buy the same style, and people wear horse-faced skirts to walk out of the house generously, and they don't feel alternativeHorse-faced skirts are gradually becoming a common clothing choice. However, there are also several conditions for the trend of Hanfu regularization represented by horse-faced skirts to be established. The first is the diversity of collocation. As a niche culture, the inheritance of Hanfu advocated by Hanfu fundamentalists often follows traditional shapes, styles and etiquette.
However, a complete set of hanfu is difficult to wear out on a daily basis, and to the layman, the horse-faced skirt is more like an elongated version of the pleated skirt, which can be perfectly matched with sweaters, shirts, and suits.
So,The mix and match of tradition and modernity has become the key point for Hanfu to go from a minority to the public. However, the mix and match of horse-faced skirts and modern clothing has also caused dissatisfaction in the traditional Hanfu circle.
Previously, Yang Mi's horse-faced skirt at the airport caused controversy because he put the skirt door that should have been placed in front of him on the side and matched it with a coat, and there was also a series of ** "Are there any taboos in wearing a horse-faced skirt" notes on Xiaohongshu.
These controversies go some way to explaining the popularity of horse-faced skirts. Nowadays, the crowd of people wearing horse-faced skirts is no longer limited to the Hanfu circle, and many outsiders who "simply think it looks good, so they plant grass" have also joined in.
The second is the life-like nature of the scene. Most people's lives rarely have red carpets and banquets, more work, study and daily life, and the horse face skirt should be adapted to more life scenesIt is necessary to dilute the shame of ordinary people about "overdressing". Judging from the notes of Xiaohongshu, the horse-faced skirt is not just a New Year's robe or wedding banquet toasting dress, more and more people are trying to wear the horse-faced skirt to class, commute or have a meetingHorse face skirts are infiltrating from special occasions to daily life, becoming a more everyday choice. Finally, there is the popularization of **. At a time when people are generally reluctant to spend money on clothing, shoes and hats, it is difficult for thousands of Hanfu to enter the wardrobe of ordinary people. To take off the hat of Hanfu kaolin, it is crucial to lower the ** threshold. Magic Mirror data shows that on **Tmall, more than seventy percent of Hanfu skirts are less than 200 yuan, and the five products with the highest sales are also concentrated at the price of two or three hundred yuanIt's not much different from buying a regular dress.
Many brands are also using technology to lower the barrier to entry for Hanfu. For example, the Hanfu brand Weaving Division has improved the fabric structure and pleating process to make the horse-faced skirt machine washableIt reduces the best economic cost in terms of cleaning and care.
Brands poured in quickly
The factory catches the heatGood-looking, convenient, and cheap horse-faced skirts go to the everydayLet many brands taste the taste of hot and piping hot.
In January 2024, the sales of Tmall Hanfu skirts increased by 171 year-on-year2%, many new brands that have not been established long ago smelled business opportunities and quickly poured in, eating the dividends of this wave of Hanfu economy.
Founded in March 2023, Xinghe Hange chose to enter this field because of the popularity of Hanfu, and has become the sales champion of Hanfu skirts on the Tao platform in less than a year. According to Ah Wei, the person in charge of store promotion of Xinghe Hange, the main product of Xinghe Hange is the horse face skirt"This category is not very complicated, and it is closer to everyday clothing." "DT Business Observer" noticed that the regularization of Hanfu is not only the demand of consumersIt is also the result of the brand's intentional promotion. Open the Douyin of Xinghe Hange*** You can see a series of short ** of "When the horse face skirt enters the daily life", the model wears the horse face skirt and walks in the commuting scene such as shopping malls and subway stationsIt sends a signal that you can also wear a horse-faced skirt in your daily life.
Xinghe Hange Douyin***Another Hanfu brand Weaving Division also positions the brand as "Hanfu that can be worn daily", focusing on daily Hanfu represented by "shirt + horse face skirt".And market the horse-faced skirt as a skirt. The popularity of horse-faced skirts in daily scenes has made the brand make moneyalso smashed the sky-high wealth into the upstream factory.
In the home textile industry base of Xu Village, Haining, the machine was originally used to produce curtains and sofasBecause its special brocade process can be used in the production of horse face skirts, they are used to make horse face skirt fabrics. According to CCTV News, more than 100 local enterprises have transformed into the production of horse face skirt fabrics, with a daily output of more than 30,000 meters. During the Spring Festival, some factories are still working around the clock, day and night to catch up with fabrics, but they still can't keep up with the speed of orders.
Due to the shortage of supply in the market, the upstream ** chain has become a scarce resourceHanfu store Ling Xitang once said in Xiaohongshu that the horse face skirt fabric ** is very nervous, and the sample fabric in September has not arrived in November, and a horse face skirt processing factory also revealed, "I know several fabric factories, and they seem to be covered by big brands." A studio in Xu Village, Haining, was still producing curtains and sofas in May last year, and this year it has received orders from Hanfu brands such as Weaving Division and Dust Snow Collection, requiring the production of horse face skirt fabrics. The popularity of horse-faced skirts has allowed garment processing factories to grasp part of the initiative in front of brands and stores. In the past, garment processing factories often took the initiative to contact customers to win orders, but now the situation is different: first, some processing factories take the initiative to show assembly line production on social **, with the help of the popularity of horse face skirtsIt is easy to attract customers' active inquiries, or directly to the finished product workshop to pick up goods.
Douyin) secondly, in the specific production details,Many factories use the "small order quick return" model:First, produce different styles of horse-faced skirts in small batches, launch them in the live broadcast room, and then quickly adjust the production plan according to the market feedback in the live broadcast roomFind out the popular styles for mass production and minimize inventory pressure. There are even more factory owners who are not satisfied with drinking soup in the upstream ** chain, and plan to do their own brands and e-commerce, gnaw on the real bones, and do their best to make this wave of hot money.
Write at the end
In recent years, new Chinese style has become a very popular concept.
But what is the new Chinese dress, many people can't say clearly, and can only be through the outfits of stars such as Yang Mi and Ni NiConstruct an imagination of new Chinese style. Different from mountain dressing and old money style dressing, when these styles come from overseas, a complete set of dressing formulas has been formed, and the new Chinese style is still in the embryonic stage, and even the brand itself may not be clearThe ceiling of the new Chinese outfit is in**. Many merchants who follow the trend may only know that the horse face skirt is a hot mess, but they still have no concept of other categories in the Hanfu circle. Fortunately,The horse-faced skirt is out of the circle, providing more imagination for the future of new Chinese wear. Since the key to the popularity of horse-faced skirts lies in daily life, Hanfu items such as Song-made two-piece skirts and cardigans may also be modernized and combined with shirts and jeans to be accepted by more people and integrated into daily life. What exactly does the new Chinese style look like,We also need more "horse-faced skirts" to validate our imagination. Author: Lin Meishan Editor: Zhang Chenyang.
Data: Lin Meishan Design: Qi Tonghui.
Operation: Su Hongrui Producer: Zheng Xiaohui.