Zhang Ning stepped down. 
Those who don't care about the fashion circle don't know that this person has ever existed, and those who care about the fashion circle hope that this person hasn't existed. And I managed to pick up the melon that had been thrown on the ground by the next circle in 3 seconds and patted the dust.
You are not rare, we want to eat in the entertainment industry! She, Zhang Ning, Australian-Chinese, fashion practitioner, parachuted into the editor-in-chief of the first fashion magazine "Vogue Fashion and Beauty" at the age of 28, and became the inner circle of China's Vanity Fair.
Note: "Vogue Fashion & Beauty" is also known as "Vogue China", hereinafter referred to as "VC".
However, in just three years of office, she has created a series of jaw-dropping "achievements".
It was she who used sandbags, iron pipes, clips and curtain fabrics from the furniture market to turn the famous Vogue fashion festival into a grass platform team.
Regardless of whether it is traffic, actresses, supermodels, or Anna Wintour, the "female devil" of the fashion industry who flew from the United States, to our Sister Zhang's territory, she also has to be concave in the construction site.
It was also she who tried her best to let Zhang Zifeng leapfrog the level of Dengfeng (previously only Dahua was qualified to be on the list), which made the seniors who were still queuing up to hold the number plate star.
For other senior actresses, this is a provocation and insult to their coffee positions;
For Zhang Zifeng himself, this is tantamount to a killing, and the finished film is hardly good-looking;
And for Vogue, it doesn't seem to be doing any good...... either
We all know that the fashion industry is a difficult game of chess, and it is an art to take into account the interests of multiple parties.
But how have you ever seen such an operation that can offend people to a point where there is no one left?
Even if we understand that Ms. Zhang Ning, who is essentially a foreigner, is a newcomer to domestic entertainment, she has neither connections nor routines.
But as an editor-in-chief, she is also a little embarrassed in her own work.
When Zhang Ning invites the top coffee to the big flower, what will happen to the world?
You will get a Michelle Yeoh who plays a feather duster, a Zhou Xun who cos Tong Xiangyu makeup, and a Li Bingbing who doesn't know whether she is draped in curtains (she really loves curtains) or Northeast flower quilts.
When Zhang Ning invites a top model, what will happen to the world?
Shalom Harlow knows it.
A legendary supermodel in the 90s, a witch who has ruled the runway for 30 years, and a ruthless character who is famous for all kinds of charms.
Anthracene, she's been trampled like this here
When Zhang Ning wants to play the national style, what will happen to the world?
She would ask models and celebrities to wear clothes that had nothing to do with the theme, put on makeup with unknown meaning, and stand in front of a background that looked like a wall calendar landscape painting for a group photo.
Please note that these are not three covers of the same issue, but three of them that are nearly half a year apart from each other, and she mixes three issues with one idea.
Later, I don't know if I was scolded to the point that I had no confidence in the photographers outside, so Zhang Ning simply went on the stage by himself.
Isn't it just taking pictures? My sister has also worked as a fashion blogger.
So we have another cuckoo with his legs weirdly crossed in front of the audience and turned into a black chicken essence on the street.
What to say, maybe in response to the old man's words, interlaced like a mountain.
The blogger who has played again and again, coming to the complex power field of paper media is a bit reluctant after all.
Having said that, the influence of "VC" itself is far less than that of the authoritative versions of Britain, Italy, and France, coupled with the late start of the domestic fashion industry, which means that the breadth and depth of the face are relatively small, and the requirements for the editor-in-chief should not be so harsh.
But why is it so difficult to be its editor-in-chief?
The French and British versions of Vogue are benchmark editions with a long history and high style.
I have to start with two people, Anna Wintour and Zhang Yu.
Anna is the devil who rules the fashion scene, that's the consensus of everyone.
But what many people don't know is that her influence is not only reflected in creating a group of loyal readers, but also in creating a group of editors-in-chief who use themselves as a template.
In 1988, Anna, who had worked in the industry for many years, became the editor-in-chief of the American version of Vogue, symbolizing the beginning of a dynasty.
Soon, she changed the fashion world forever with two covers
In the first one, the model is wearing a $10,000 brand item, but the trousers are faintly exposed as a pair of jeans worth 50 dollars.
This is Anna's first cover, and the first time that jeans have appeared on the cover of Vogue, marking Anna's ambition to completely open the fashion industry to society;
In the second, the cover character is Madonna, a singer who was on the cusp of the storm at the time.
At first glance, it's not unusual, right? However, it was also a milestone in fashion history: for the first time, a celebrity (not a model) was on the cover.
Anna thus opened up the tradition of celebrity enlistment, which symbolizes the submission of style and aesthetics to traffic, and also makes the originally closed fashion industry and the entire Vanity Fair have a strong connection.
Anna has created a lot of firsts, and even created a lot of weird ** "rules"-
For example, an editor-in-chief should have a signature hairstyle that will not change for 10,000 years, and he must wear sunglasses when watching a show.
Zhang Yu's "Sassoon Head" and Zhang Ning's blue hair are both personal labels.
Zhang Yu, who has served as the editor-in-chief since its inception in 2005, is himself a language and law student, and he did not excel in aesthetics and artistry during his tenure.
However, she faithfully continued Anna's businessman thinking, and even played more extremely.
It was Zhang Yu who single-handedly set the extremely high threshold for "VC".
Or, it has to be a big flower with top performance and influence.
Or, it has to be a superstar with international influence.
The most "low" standard has to be Sun Li, the queen of the Grand Slam, Zhou Dongyu, the queen of the three golden films, and Liu Yifei, the 85-year-old who entered Hollywood, ......
Zhang Yu's card man standard is actually better than Anna.
Anna advocates traffic and diversification, and she will not hesitate to put Internet celebrity Sister Jin, tennis diva Serena Williams, singer rookie Yaya, and even Zheng Haoyan, who became popular with "Squid Game", on the cover.
These candidates, who seem to have nothing to do with fashion, reflect her grasp of the pulse of the new era, and can also explain why she entrusted Zhang Ning with a heavy responsibility.
Zhang Ning has a wealth of new ** experience and a keener perception of new things, which may open a new path for the dying paper media.
The joy of Zhang Ning's work with me is to look to the future.
As for Zhang Yu, she is a conservative line, and she can't miss a starlight, performance, and coffee position.
This set of rules makes "VC" deeply bound to the entertainment industry and becomes the ultimate stage for star competition.
Speaking of which, you should be able to understand why Zhang Zifeng Dengfeng can cause a storm-
Her coffee position is not up to the established standard, which actually dilutes the gold content of the cover of "VC", which is a great offense to other stars.
Zhang Ning's laudatory logic is indeed difficult to understand.
If you consider the awards alone, don't the Golden Rooster actress Zhang Xiaofei and the Golden Statue actress Zheng Xiuwen have more passers-by and fashion expression?
But her fault is not in innovation, but in every new step she creates, which accurately breaks people's rules and moves people's cakes.
In the end, it is reflected in the result, which is another big death hole of hers:Sponsorship
According to the **WWD, the sponsorship amount of a cover of "VC" is as high as 3 million, and the brand is willing to pay because of the compulsion and influence that this magazine represents.
VC cover characters often wear and wear the apparel of the sponsored brand.
And Zhang Ning did not get cover sponsorship many times during his tenure, and there was a rare empty window phenomenon.
China's fashion editors don't have to deal with clothes, they have to deal with people, money, and rich people.
In the era when Zhang Yu was in charge of "VC", she could always invite the most popular and status celebrities, always make the event high-end and textured, and more importantly, always let the top luxury parties pay for them.
In contrast, at the curtain ceremony above, Zhang Ning could only pull a water of sports and leisure brand ......
Image source |Fox Factory torture.
In fact, this did not affect the image and grade of the magazine, but directly shook its lifeline.
When a fashion magazine is no longer recognized by the core brands in the industry, or even regarded as a valuable platform for cooperation, its road has basically come to an end.
There is no more difficult learning than workplace culture, and if there is, it is Chinese workplace culture.
Obviously, this made Zhang Ning, who grew up abroad, seriously unadaptable.
Her return is actually a story of a "banana girl" who was beaten by the human society.
Reading her "resignation letter" carefully, it is not difficult to taste a kind of naïve self-confidence that only children grown up in foreign countries can have
Handwritten, bilingual, not insincere.
But she often "changes", "achievements" and "forefronts", which makes people wonder if she has no idea what she has done.
When a new human enters a scheming human society, there are two outcomes:
This person has no idea, then she will become a puppet of capital;
This person has an idea, then she will be squeezed out as an outcast of capital.
What kind of Zhang Ning is, I believe I don't need to say more.
To be honest, the final effect aside, her thoughts have always been very full-
Adopt new models, promote the new generation of stars, and introduce a variety of cutting-edge technologies and media.
The old-school Zhang Yu doesn't play with these, and her work has been consolidating the hierarchy of celebrities and safeguarding the interests of capital.
But she is strong, she is well versed in the Chinese style of human affairs, knows how to balance all parties, and secretly raises prices for herself.
For example, when she let the former top domestic entertainment and current textile industry practitioners ascend to the throne, she will be paired with traffic supermodel Kendou (Kendall Jenner) to prevent her from taking the lead.
And the debut of the four-character seal is enough to take 4 bigger wrists, putting him in the lowest position.
It's a very cunning tactic.
She makes people understand that no matter how popular she is, she has to look at her face, and she has the final say on whether to give it or not, and how much to give.
For another example, she asked Yang Mi and others to spend 85 flowers all over the supplement of "VC", but only let Liu Yifei appear in the main issue.
This amounts to an implicit promise: "The magazine recognizes your influence, and as long as you have a real record, you can be published".
Painting cakes for loyalty, the best deal in the world.
As a result, she has recruited a large number of traffic stars as her platform, and many things that use money and people will come naturally.
Zhang Yu is the only editor-in-chief on the planet who really calls himself a "female devil".
But this is actually a good point, compared to the word "editor-in-chief", which is more strong in cultural undertakings, she is more suitable to play the devil.
This way of doing business is actually too old-school, too commercial, and too black-learning.
And Zhang Yu has not made much achievements in aesthetics, and he has an old-fashioned taste.
All this makes the previous "VC" infinitely close to a club of the elite class, and the fashion circle does things according to the style of officialdom.
In 19 years, AB, who was hanging empty in "VC", suddenly appeared on the cover of the American version of "Vogue", although it only occupied the corner of the group cover, it was still the highest version that a domestic actress had ever appeared.
But in Zhang Yu's view, this is a taboo in the workplace: "skipping the level".
She liked the emoji of a netizen P on the Internet, and said "suffocate the old lady", and the P on her mobile phone case was AB's "Vogue".
Another time, supermodel Xi Mengyao was invited to participate in the "VC" event, and posted a single beautiful photo afterwards, but was warned by Zhang Yu.
This is another taboo in the workplace: the limelight overshadows the leader.
So Xi Mengyao immediately rushed to rectify, put a group photo, cue activities, and wrote a small essay to thank the leader Ms. Zhang.
If I remember correctly, these two incidents were on the hot search when they happened, and the people who ate melons were sweating for the two actresses, and they felt that Zhang Yu would ** them at any time.
Here's the point
Zhang Yu may not have the ability to ** a person, but he can always make people feel this fear.
Thinking about it again, Zhang Ning thought about the three words "female devil" too superficially.
Relying on her hair and sunglasses to imitate her predecessors is the most elementary student posture, and she can't actually control the set of rules created by her predecessors at all.
Previously, it was rumored that the reason why Gong Li had not appeared in "VC" for many years was that she insisted on using her own fixed photographer, but Zhang Yu refused to give in.
During Zhang Ning's tenure, the stalemate between the two parties finally ended with the submission of "VC", and Emperor Gong got his wish.
This incident reflects the essential difference between the two generations of editors-in-chief.
Zhang Ning couldn't suppress the temperament of internal entertainment, so he could only be suppressed by internal entertainment.
After the turmoil of Zhang Zifeng's October issue last year, the magazine held its most eye-catching annual fashion ceremony in the second month.
As a result, in addition to the endless curtains that night, there was very little starlight, which showed that Neiyu was unwilling to give her face.
Compared with the big flowers, 85 flowers, actresses, and actors on the screen of Zhang Yu's era, I can't believe that this is an event held by the same team.
Let's take a look at the annual ceremony of "w Chinese Edition", which was just launched last year
Not to mention the various Hua Dan and Tsing Yi on the scene, they invited Yu Perle, the first actress of the universe, and Hirokazu Kore-eda, the Japanese director, to the scene ......
It turns out that everyone who is on leave is not really having something to do, but has more important activities to go.
Afterwards, some netizens left messages under Zhang Yu's social **, criticizing Zhang Ning's incompetence and missing the glory of the past.
And Zhang Yu, who has always been proud, also replied enthusiastically: Thank you for your words.
But in my opinion, Zhang Ning may have done a bad job, but Zhang Yu has nothing to miss.
One of them is stunned, the other is a big leader, and the style is too bad after all.
Zhang Yu took the initiative to resign, in addition to having his new career ambitions, he probably also realized that his old-school line was powerless in the face of the new era.
According to a report by Vogue, Zhang Ning's new career will be launched in the field of film and television, which may also mean that she will retire from the fashion industry.
It is not difficult to imagine how the past three years in domestic entertainment have hit her confidence and fighting spirit. Fortunately, she has a good attitude unique to foreign children, and she should be able to restart her life soon.
She is indeed not capable enough, and the three fires that can't burn the tower of internal entertainment will leave the scene gloomily.
But for that old power game, she did what all young people do
Contempt and defiance.
Many people say that Zhang Ning is very supportive of domestic brands and designers, and will go to those shows that few people care about, and use her reputation to support newcomers, even if she is a newcomer herself.
Photo source @mars amateur fashion review.
And after saying goodbye to her, we still have problems.
Where will internal entertainment go next? Old rules are broken, new ways to play are resisted, and who can catch this mess?
Maybe I'm thinking too much.
This magazine, which carries countless ambitions to pursue fame and fortune, is not meant to be for us to see.