text|Zhang Ping.
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Emerald flowers, sauerkraut
In 2001, the sitcom "A Family in the Northeast" directed by Yingda was released, and the opening song was set as "The Northeast People Are Living Lei Feng" in Snow Village, which is familiar and still popular todayEmerald flowers, sauerkraut"Officially debuted.
Stills from "A Family in the Northeast".
So much so that when it comes to the typical imagery of the Northeast now, sauerkraut and the demonic Northeast dialect, Zhao Benshan, Northeast Duo Zhuan, etc., are all blurted out. Sauerkraut also followed the "Northeast Silver that does not accept it" from the three eastern provinces at forty or fifty degrees north latitude, from north to south to Sanya, which is close to the equator.
How much do Chinese love sauerkraut?
Statistical reports based on the network display,Chinese consume as much as 65 billion pounds of sauerkraut every year. If the average weight of Chinese is 100 kilograms, the sauerkraut we eat every year is equivalent to the weight of half a Chinese population.
The success of every sauerkraut is no accident
With the popularity of sauerkraut in the north and south of the country, many people have begun to make their own sauerkraut at home, however, not every cabbage can be successfully transformed into sauerkraut. "Sauerkraut accumulation" seems to be a technical work that belongs exclusively to the people of the Northeast.
Buying good cabbage is the first and most important step in accumulating sauerkraut. Around late October every year, most of the Northeast begins to enter the season of "stockpiling autumn vegetables". When you see a group of Northeast housewives in a residential area in the Northeast, pushing and shoving, and even starting to do it, you can basically judge: the truck selling Chinese cabbage is coming.
In the Northeast, the Northeast housewives are no less crazy about the cabbage brother than the star-chasing girl who sees her own destiny. Experienced Northeast housewives can always see potential Chinese cabbage in a truckload of cabbage, which is their sharp eyes cultivated from life experience.
Compared with the finesse of buying vegetables in the south, Chinese cabbage in the northeast is selling with great momentum. Here, it doesn't matter the piece, it doesn't matter the catty, but the car. Families rode electric tricycles and began to stock up on vegetables. For a lot of people in the Northeast,Stockpiling vegetables is the most important ritual to welcome the beginning of winter。So much so that some people exaggerated and joked:Southerners buy cabbage for one meal at a time, and northeasterners buy cabbage for one ton at a time.
After buying cabbage home, it is necessary to evaporate some of the water in the vegetable leaves after a few days of sun exposure, and then remove the outer layer of old leaves and vegetable gangs, and prepare a large vat and a "cylinder stone", which is the treasure of every Northeast housewife. Once you're ready, you're ready to start "accumulating sauerkraut".
In the Northeast, every mature housewife has her own unique secret of "accumulating sauerkraut", and they have been exposed to the hands of the previous generation, taught by words and deeds, and cultivated their own unique taste from the vat of life. After a series of meticulous processes and a long time, the cabbage gradually ferments and matures in the crowded vats, exuding a sour aroma, and the leaves are stained golden inside and outThis is the sauerkraut transformation of a cabbage in the Northeast
Sauerkraut + iron pot, you can stew the whole world
In addition to the eight major cuisines of China and the ninth largest canteen cuisine,The "Sauerkraut stew" cuisine can be called the tenth largest cuisine created by the housewives of the Northeast
Because the accumulated sauerkraut is very resistant to storage, people in the Northeast tend to accumulate a large vat of hundreds of catties of sauerkraut in the second half of the year, eat it and catch it now, and you can eat it until May of the next year. Therefore, in the long cold months in the Northeast, the "Sauerkraut" series of dishes can be entrenched in the Northeast table for half a year.
Although with the development of science and technology, cold chain preservation technology and off-season cultivation technology have made the Northeast have more choices of ingredients in winter, and the Northeast table in the cold winter is becoming more and more abundant, "sauerkraut" is still one of the main ingredients in the Northeast people's dietary Xi.
The people of Northeast China have developed many ways to eat sauerkraut, but the most classic of them is the "stewed sauerkraut" series. Northeast people love to eat stew, and there is a saying that "if you give Northeast people a pot, you can stew the whole world".
Every bite of sauerkraut is the homesickness of a wanderer leaving home
The wide spread of each dish follows the pace of people, and going out is just helpless.
According to the data of the seventh population census, the total population of the three northeastern provinces decreased by 10.99 million in the decade from 2010 to 2020, and decreased by more than 1 million people and 86 million in 2021 and 202240,000 people, that is, in the last ten years, the Northeast has decreased by 13 million people.
Northeast China, known as the "eldest son of the republic", was once the production base of China's grain, energy and heavy industry. In the most glorious stage, the scale of heavy industry in Northeast China accounted for 98% of the country's heavy industry output value;Grain production accounts for one-fifth of the country;In the early years of the founding of the People's Republic of China, the economy of Northeast China was far ahead.
With the economic downturn in Northeast China in recent years, young people in Northeast China have left this black land. WhileSauerkraut has long become a collective memory integrated into the blood and bones of Northeast people, and it has become a bond in the hearts of Northeast people who dare to fight and dare to break through