Herm s watchmaking is unconventional and surprisingly successful

Mondo Fashionable Updated on 2024-01-19

When it comes to Hermès watchmaking, everyone's first reaction may be: girls must love Hermès watches!The design is also more towards fashion watches, right?Not really. Dear cousins who have traveled with you, you should be quite impressed by Hermès watchmaking in recent years, right?2022 Geneva Watch Show H08 Single Button Chronograph;The 2022 GPHG "Best Men's and Women's Complication" award for the Arceau Monthly Reading Time Worldtimer;It can be seen that Hermes watchmaking has done quite well in recent years. The reason for this is that the Hermès brand has been involved in the field of self-produced movements, and has begun to "write like a god". Today, the most common movement manufacturers are still SW and ETA, but as a high-end brand, Hermès also prefers to choose other more suitable manufacturers, so in 2006, Hermès acquired a 25% stake in the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier movement factory under the Parmigiani Fleurier brand. Vaucher manufacture Fleurier

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This movement factory is not ordinary. In addition to the Parmigiani Fleurier brand, which is worn by King Charles III of the United Kingdom, even Richamill, the top watch brand of mainstream Swiss brands, has also transformed the RM033 with the 5400 series movement based on Vaucher. It took 3-5 years for the factory to develop a new movement for Parmigiani Fleurier, and it allowed PF to achieve the same in-house production as Rolex. It's precise, it's detailed, it's rigorous, it's unquestionable, and perhaps Hermès thinks it's the same as its own brand philosophy.

Reading time of the month. Since then, in addition to exquisite bags, the brand's watchmaking techniques have become more and more professional, and while retaining the brand's style, it has gradually broken away from the traditional atmosphere of Swiss. For example, lapis lazuli panyue reading time is simply so amazing that it is a superior design that cousins can't forget.

What I would like to show you today is the Hermès Arceau skeleton disc watch from the same series as the Moon Reading Time. If you don't have the budget to buy a luxury sports watch from a major Swiss watch brand, then look no further than the Hermès Arceau collection. Hermès Arcau W055537WW00 watch

Elegant, mysterious, understated, formal with a touch of rebellion, these are the first things I feel about this watch. The asymmetrical upper and lower classic Hermès stirrup-shaped lugs are the most recognizable features of the watch, and the skeleton design under the smoky sapphire crystal are the two highlights of the watch.

With a diameter of 40 mm, it is an acceptable size for most watch lovers, and the case is made of polished stainless steel with a large area. The overall style size is completely OK with suits, and casual wear is of course not a problem. The combination of black and white makes this watch suitable for the age group from 20 to the top of the cap, as long as you like, it is not obtrusive, and the hollow design can also highlight your unique personality.

First of all, inside the italic Arabic numerals are the silver circle minute scale, and finally inwards are the smoky sapphire crystal dial. Through the skeleton design, we can also see the operation of the watch, which makes this watch more progressively layered.

Flip the side of the watch and you can see that the case is designed to be large at the top and small at the bottom. The screw-down crown is engraved with the Hermès "H" letter, making it easy to adjust the time.

Black alligator leather strap with polished stainless steel buckle engraved with the Hermès logo.

The number is coded.

Through the design of the back, we can see that the movement of this watch is the H1837 automatic mechanical movement designed by the Vaucher Manufacture and Hermès. The rotor is also made of a hollow design, engraved with the English logo of the Hermès brand, which gives a very unique mechanical impression.

However, I think the fly in the ointment is that there are five dominant screws on the case back, which would look more harmonious if the design was changed to a different design. It is worth mentioning that the Vaucher movement factory makes the basic movement for many brands, and then the brand will make some modifications and changes on its own, if we want to see what the basic movement of a watch is, just compare the size of the two movements, and then pay attention to the approximate spacing of the gemstone bearings, and the position of the screws, because generally when making changes, it will be relatively conservative in these aspects.

As a luxury brand watchmaking, Hermès has undeniable uniqueness compared with mainstream Swiss watches, because on the basis of its own aesthetic system, it can also add unique elements. They are freer, less traditional and perhaps a bit deviant than the Swiss watches. A few days ago, I chatted with friends about independent watchmaking, according to our observation, young people in China buy watches, leaving aside some of the top economic people who will collect independent watchmaking, most of the other young people do tend to choose the design of young and recognizable luxury sports watches, and the steel king makes the teenagers out of reach.

At this time, the existence of Hermes is a highlight, allowing young people to choose a lot of watches. The brand has a 100-year history of watchmaking, but it has broken away from tradition and can win by surprise, and the after-sales service is also guaranteed.

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