China Business Daily (reporter Ran Longnan trainee reporter Yu Jiaxin) Hanfu, which was once a niche hobby, has recently gained more attention from the ** platform. It is reported that on December 26, ** added "Hanfu" as a secondary category, and split the category into 5 leaf categories: Hanfu tops, Hanfu pants, Hanfu suits, Hanfu skirts, and Hanfu dresses.
"National Wind Fever" has gradually brought Hanfu into the public eye, and has gained the love of more and more consumers. At the end of the year and the New Year, the sales of Hanfu have ignited a new fire. But in most people's impressions, the frequency of hanfu appearing in scenes of daily life still doesn't seem to be highIn the future, can Hanfu enter more people's wardrobes?
In the Beijing Garden Expo Park, many tourists wear Hanfu to take photos and check in. (Photo by China Business Daily reporter Tu Hanwen).
The market size exceeds 10 billion yuan.
The red color directly fills the atmosphere, and it is suitable for the New Year and the Spring Festival. On social platforms such as Xiaohongshu, a set of red Hanfu has the nickname of "New Year's robe".
At the end of the year, Hanfu once again ushered in the peak sales season. In November, the sales volume of the plum blossom Hanfu cloak of the ** store "not tied to the boat" reached 150,000 pieces, and the "Deer God" horse face skirt of the store's "Drunken Rain" also sold 120,000 pieces.
In fact, not only at the end of the year, but throughout 2023, Hanfu is appearing in a posture of "fire out of the circle". Whether it is an offline tourist attraction, a fashion week or an online short** and e-commerce platform, Hanfu seems to be everywhere.
The red Hanfu fills the atmosphere and is favored by consumers. The picture shows tourists wearing Hanfu in the Beijing Garden Expo Park to take photos and check in. (Photo by China Business Daily reporter Tu Hanwen).
The picture shows tourists wearing Hanfu and taking pictures at the Qianwang Temple in Hangzhou. (Photo by China Business Daily reporter Tu Hanwen).
In the spring, summer, autumn and winter clothing industry trends released by **ifashion in 2023, "Xinhua Service" ranked second among the 9 major trends in the first half of the year and 3rd among the 7 major trends in the second half of the year, while "Hanfu" and "Daily Commuting Hanfu" occupied 2 3 pages in the corresponding sections in the first half of the year. On December 25, ** announced the list of the top ten products in 2023, and the horse-faced skirt belonging to the Hanfu branch was on the list together with products such as sauce latte and black plum sauce.
From the perspective of market size, Hanfu's performance in 2023 is also outstanding. As of mid-December, the annual sales of Hanfu on the Tao platform reached nearly 10 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of more than 50%, and the number of Hanfu products increased by more than 60%.
The price of Hanfu ready-to-wear is usually 300 to 500 yuan, but some of the more exquisite small accessories can cost one or two hundred yuan, and it is possible to combine them into a set of several thousand yuan. Hanfu lovers told a reporter from China Business Daily slightly. In addition, she also introduced to reporters: "At present, the more popular ones are Ming winter clothes and Tang summer clothes, and Wei and Jin style Hanfu are also very popular when taking photos." ”
It is difficult to go to the "masses".
At present, there is such a voice on the Internet: It has become the consensus of girls to have a Hanfu in the wardrobe. But in fact, there is still a distance between Hanfu and the goal of "one piece per person".
A few years ago, hanfu was often mentioned as a niche hobby, alongside lolita dresses and jk**. One of the reasons why it is "niche" is that the threshold of the circle is relatively high - orthodox Hanfu has strict requirements for the examination of the form, and if the novice who has just entered the pit does not have a deep understanding of this, it is easy to "step on the thunder" in the form.
I like Tang Dynasty-style Hanfu very much, but the mainstream Tang skirt is not suitable for me to wear, so I finally had to buy a waist version of the skirt. Consumer Xiao Zhou told reporters, "I know that there should be controversy about the shape of the piece I bought, because there is a point of view in the Hanfu circle that the shape of the Hanfu should be reproduced according to the ancient appearance, and it must be supported by documents and unearthed cultural relics." ”
Xiaohongshu Hanfu blogger Su Su also agrees with this view. She told reporters that the purchase of Hanfu depends on four basic elements: shape, plate type, workmanship, and materials. If it only imitates the shape but does not make a middle seam, or does not conform to the traditional practice, such as breaking the shoulder, it cannot be regarded as Hanfu. Others add waists to blouses, pockets to horse-faced skirts, etc., to make them more similar to modern clothing, and strictly speaking, they can only be regarded as improved hanfu.
The improved plate shape is indeed more in line with the habits of modern people in terms of wearing experience, but the upper body silhouette loses its traditional charm, which depends on personal choice. Susu said.
In Weiwei's view, with the rise of the national style, the popular Hanfu styles in recent years have been more inclined to improve the plate type. "There are two kinds of popular Hanfu shops now, one is particularly particular;Another is cheaper for the public, such as 'Thirteen Yu', their family has also launched a Hanfu co-branded with the Glory of Kings before, which is particularly popular. ”
The entry threshold has been lowered, but the convenience of wearing is also a problem that many Hanfu are difficult to solve at this stage. Weiwei told reporters that although he has bought many sets of Hanfu, because he is relatively short, it is not convenient to go shopping and play when he wears them, so he will only wear them when taking photos.
However, Weiwei also mentioned that he would still consider wearing improved models like horse face skirts, which have been better integrated with daily scenes in recent years.
I think that the rise of Hanfu now has promoted the inheritance of traditional clothing and traditional culture, which is the embodiment of cultural self-confidence. I also hope that everyone can have a more tolerant attitude towards the improvement and presentation of Hanfu communication, and less criticism. Weiwei said.
"National style fever" has entered the public eye, and all kinds of Hanfu have become popular clothing for photo shooting. The picture shows tourists wearing Hanfu in the Beijing Garden Expo Park to take photos and check in. (Photo by China Business Daily reporter Tu Hanwen).
Where is the road? There is an industry opinion that this time, the ** platform will add Hanfu as a secondary category, and split it according to tops, pants, etc., so that Hanfu can match the wearing logic of modern clothing, which is more conducive to the further development of Hanfu in the future.
However, judging from the data, the growth rate of the Hanfu market seems to have gradually slowed down.
iResearch's "2022 Development of China's New Hanfu Industry" shows that in 2020 and 2021, the market size growth rate of China's new Hanfu (modern Hanfu) will be 31% and 64%, which is not the same as in the previous five years.
On the one hand, the reason is that there are multiple factors that lead to poor management. Weiwei told reporters that many Hanfu stores he is concerned about have closed in recent years. "Some stores with a good reputation in the circle have closed down one after another due to business problems since 2022. ”
On the other hand, iResearch proposed that the design of the new Hanfu needs to further broaden its boundaries to meet the needs of consumers. As of the release of the above report, the proportion of new Hanfu in the clothing market is only 08%。
The "2022 Hanfu Breakthrough Growth Consumption Insights" provided by Kurun Data shows that the main gathering places for Hanfu lovers are still first-tier and new first-tier cities with higher consumption levels, and about half of Hanfu consumers have also purchased niche clothing such as cosplay clothing, JK**, and Lolita clothing, which means that the group of clothing lovers themselves is more likely to "enter the pit" than ordinary consumers.
If you don't wear much on daily occasions and spend a few hundred yuan to buy a Hanfu, most of the time you can only put it in the wardrobe to 'eat ashes'. Weiwei said, "So now many tourist attractions and photo photographers will directly provide Hanfu rental business, wear it for a day and then return it, and the cost performance is also very high." ”
In the view of Yang Dajun, an analyst in the garment industry, the "Hanfu fever" in recent years reflects the enhancement of China's comprehensive national strength. In the heart of the rising national self-confidence, consumers are more and more appreciative of traditional culture and more and more willing to consume for it. In the future, Hanfu and improved Hanfu are likely to grow further.
But to what extent will this growth go?Yang Dajun believes that although the "Hanfu fever" has lasted for a long time, it has emerged as a cultural phenomenon after all, and any cultural phenomenon has a trend, stage and periodicity, "For example, more than ten years ago, bohemian style was once very popular in the clothing industry. ”
Therefore, Yang Dajun believes that Hanfu will indeed grow in the future stage, but the stability of this growth still needs to be investigated.
Now there have been many brands in the domestic Hanfu market, but it is still relatively difficult to further form a brand effect. Yang Dajun said.