*This article is an original content of Sanlian Life Weekly
How to describe the taste of lard residue?It is charred and crispy on the outside, plump and fat on the inside, chewing in the mouth "extremely crispy, a light bite, 'click', the sky cracks, a small lump of lard like a fountain, violently shot out, fragrant overflowing". 』
Written by Shen Gongjing
There is a sentence in Bai Juyi's "Song of Long Hatred" that "hot spring water is slippery and creamy", and he compared Yang Guifei's skin to congealed lard, which is also appropriate. Cai Lan said: People who have never eaten lard do not understand the taste of the world. About this "taste of the world", I tasted it for the first time when I was in kindergarten.
When I was in kindergarten, when I woke up from a nap, the teacher would distribute snacks to the children, such as a few apricot biscuits or a small vegetable bag. There's nothing more on my mind than the lard residue. During the nap, I smelled the smell of oil, so I sneaked out of bed, slipped to the stove next door, and lay on the windowsill, looking at the cooking grandmaBoil the oil residue, when the oil residue floats up, it is golden yellow, Grandma fishes it with a fence, shakes it three times, and then "bangs", the oil residue falls into the sea bowl. After the children woke up, the teacher held the porcelain bowl in one hand and the long chopsticks in the other, like feeding a chicken, one of them stuffed a piece in their mouths, and the children stretched their necks one by one, waiting to be "fed". How to describe the taste of lard residue?It is charred and crispy on the outside, plump and fat on the inside, chewing in the mouth "extremely crispy, a light bite, 'click', the sky cracks, a small lump of lard like a fountain, violently shot out, fragrant overflowing".
Occasionally, after a round of feeding, the bottom of the bowl will be left.
One or two pieces of oil residue, the teacher took it as a prize to the most obedient and well-behaved children, like me, who often cried and was not very pleasant, so I could only stand against the wall.
One day, I came home and said to my mother, "I'm going to eat lard residue!"The mother snorted and snorted, and there was no more. In her opinion, lard residue is junk food comparable to KFC and McDonald's.
Fortunately, in winter, my hometown has the Xi of eating a warm pot, and there is an important ingredient in the warm pot - egg dumplings, and lard is indispensable for making egg dumplings. My uncle and grandmother were boiling lard in the stove, and I smelled the fragrance, so I rushed over and sat quietly on the bench.
But I saw my uncle and grandmother cut the pork fat of Baihuahua into small pieces of five centimeters square, put it into the pot, add water, first burn it for a while, and then turn it to low heat, during which the pot was turned over with a shovel from time to time to make it evenly heated, and watch the meat fat the size of an inch shrink smaller and smaller, turn brown, and then turn out the fire. Using a sieve to filter out the lard residue, I grabbed a brown and crispy lard residue while it was hot and stuffed it into my mouth, and with the sound of "zizizi", the aroma of the oil residue exploded between my lips and teeth. Lard residue can be used to stir-fry greens, roast tofu, and stew cabbage, which is extremely delicious. The rest of the oil is held in an enamel jar, and after cooling, it solidifies into milky white lard like snowflakes, and when you dig a spoonful, the texture is delicate, like a beautiful handicraft.
If lard is only used to fry oil residues, it will inevitably destroy the heavens.
Figure Visual China.
Hong Kong has"Lard Rice",Cai Lan was "grateful and wept" for it. Jiangnan has lard salted meat and vegetable rice, after the short-legged green frost, grandma takes out the homemade bacon, holds some firewood, stews the salted meat and vegetable rice on the earthen stove, when the pot lid is unveiled for a moment, the rice mixed with vegetables and meat is fragrant throughout the stove, put a bowl, the salted meat is red and oily, the rice is full of the oil and fresh saltiness oozing out of the salted meat, it has a layer of golden luster and oiliness than ordinary white rice, the color of the bantam green after steaming changes from turquoise to golden, and the original refreshing and sweet and glutinous leaves are mixed with the salted meat. Serve it on the table, don't be in a hurry to eat it first, dig a spoonful of white lard into the rice while it is hot, stir well, and use the temperature just out of the pot, after the lard completely penetrates, the whole bowl of rice is alive and fragrant, like a natural beauty with a little thin, which is eye-catching. Use chopsticks to pick up a large piece and send it to the mouth, the salted meat is plump, and it melts in the mouthThe lean meat is delicate, mellow and salty, wrapped in plump and fragrant glutinous rice grains, mixed with meat oil and fragrant, and can be eaten directly without side dishes, and I can dry three bowls in one go.
Rice with lard, sweet or salty, Jiangnan people's Chinese New Year's Eve dinner has a finale——Lard Eight Treasure Rice,The great writer Liang Shiqiu suffered from diabetes in his later years, and he reluctantly refused many delicacies, except for the glutinous rice and eight-treasure rice crisped with lard.
In Jiangnan, whether it is pastry, noodle soup, or shortbread, wontons, the effect of a lump of lard is like a kick in the door, with its addition, the plain ingredients immediately turn decay into magic, and the simple taste is plump.
Yang Jiang wrote in "We Together" that Qian Zhongshu's favorite breakfast is lard rice cakes. Suzhou people celebrate the New Year, and lard rice cakes are also indispensable. In addition to stirring and steaming like other cake doughs, it is also mixed with sugar plate oil, so-called"Sugar plate oil" should be marinated for three days in advance, so that the sugar can completely penetrate into the lard. In the hot cake dough, pour in the sugar plate oil, rose sauce (or mint juice), repeatedly pat and knead, knead the plate oil, and mix it evenly, so that the rice cake is sweet and glutinous, the lard is fragrant, you have me, I have you. Finally, drizzle with osmanthus.
Figure: Photo.com.
When it is cold, the lard of the white flower flower is embedded in the rice cake, and the particles are distinct, and it is not until it is heated that the lard begins to melt little by little, slowly invading every pore of the rice cake. The lard rice cake should be fried in the pot to be more fragrant, first cut the rice cake into slices, roll it in the egg liquid, put a little salad oil in the pot, and fry it in the pan, the key is to control the oil temperature, too low inside is not cooked, too high outside is burnt. A piece of qualified lard rice cake is golden on the outside, and the inside is full of toughness, and after high temperature, the lard is completely melted, so that the soft glutinous cake ball has a sweet taste of lard. Eat it while it's hot, take a bite, it's crispy and oily, so delicious that you don't have friends.
Documentary "Flavor of the World".
There are two types of cakes in JiangnanScallion pancake and crab shell yellow. Different from ordinary flatbreads, their crusts are made of lard, and the dough is layered with green onions, smeared with lard, flattened, fried, and turned over ......With the tempting sound of "zizi", the salty aroma of green onion and pork is mixed and fragrant, fried on both sides until golden brown, with lard as the driving force behind it, the pie crust is crispy, soft and chewy inside, there is just the right amount of burnt aroma, and the edge of the crispy puff pastry, one bite down, the fall ......
Jiangnan people love to eat Yangchun noodles in the morning, this seems to be an ordinary bowl of smooth noodles, but the inside is not simple, for example, the noodles are specially made with alkali on the water surface, which is more tough, and it tastes smooth and refreshing;The seasoning is soy sauce made with shrimp roe from Gaoyou Lake. The noodle master picks out a lump of lard from the enamel bowl and floats it on the noodle soup, known as "floating on water", which is the finishing touch of Yangchun noodles. When the lard slowly melts, the layers of Yangchun noodles begin to be rich, and there is a mellow aroma in the mouth. The same is true of the bubble wontons on the roadside stalls, and I saw the long chopsticks in the stall owner's hand flying into the table jar as if they were dipping some lard, and then ordering into the soup bowl, with lard soaking, the wontons tasted more fragrant and delicious.
Figure Visual China.
Chinese cooking, pay attention to color, fragrance, taste, shape, its "fragrance" is often ** with a touch of warm jade lardFor example, stir-fried crab paste with lard, and even meat with freshness, the aroma is so strong and domineering that it can make the children next door cry. My grandfather had a private dish called "fried pipa legs", that is, fresh carrots are carved into chicken leg bones with a knife, mushrooms, shredded chicken, shredded ham, and finally wrapped in pork fat and net oil into a chicken leg shape, wrapped in breadcrumbs, and fried in a panAfter forming, a fried chicken leg is alive, but its taste is better than that of real fried chicken thighs.
end The author of this article: Ai Jiangtao WeChat typesetting: Blake.
WeChat review: Ran Ning.