Colorado is spectacular all year round, but the colors and temperatures of fall make it a particularly magical time to visit.
Visiting the dunes often means staying overnight at the park's campgrounds, as there is little to no accommodation near this remote area, about 230 miles south of Denver. However, campers saw the dusk and dawn light show on the dunes, which rippled beneath the jagged Sangre de Cristo mountain range. Summers are hot, but in autumn, sandy surfaces remain comfortable all day long. Climb on the sand dunes or rent a sand board and surf the slopes like a wave.
For those who can afford it, Dunton is the quintessential Colorado resort (usually $1,400 per night). Guests comfortably stay in hand-built chalets that combine historic patina with Western art and enjoy worldly comforts such as sustainably made beds and linens. Food and drinks that make every meal feel special are included in the price – think roast pork with charred leek grits followed by poached rhubarb panna cotta – but the steaming spring water is the resort's raison d'être. From the rustic and luxurious bathhouse, you can admire the aspen groves that turn amber in autumn, and one of the cabins (well house) includes its own spring-fed soaking tub.
The park has 4.3 million visitors a year, most of which flock here during the summer months, so I went to Trail Ridge Road (the only way to cross the treeless alpine tundra) in September to reduce traffic congestion. Autumn is also mating season for the park's elk herd, and the possibility of hearing the bull's distinctive horn adds extra magic to any hike. I always catch a glimpse of elk along the moraine park loop, which is a 5A 5-mile track that can be shortened to your liking.
During the winter months, snow covers much of the state, turning urban areas into winter wonderlands and promising world-class outdoor events.
In the fall of 2023, Denver's immersive art installation entertainment house launched SIPS (with a z), a cocktail bar and lounge dedicated to providing "a cold refuge from the hustle and bustle of quantum travel." Mirrored walls reflect a mash-up of classical sculpture and graffiti art, and vintage furniture provides a myriad of perches for contemplating the experiential art of installation. The bar is only open to visitors and event guests of Meow Wolf Denver. While the previous art triggered the senses of sight, sound, and touch, the new lounge also stimulates our palate.
Once just a gas station for Interstate 70 motorists, Exit 205 is now an attractive base camp and destination for three nearby Colorado ski resorts (Arapahoe Basin, Keystone, and Breckenridge). Stay at Hotel Indigo, the chain's first mountain hotel, featuring an upscale tequila bar and an indoor pool. Snowshoeing or Nordic skiing at the R**en Golf Club (free and open to the public;Gear hire at Gore Range Sports), enjoy après-ski at the Bluebird Market food hall, and entertain drinkers on weekends with live bands at ** bars.