Maria Grazia Chiuri knows a thing or two about gender bias. Since she became Dior**'s first female creative director in 2017, she has faced criticism from critics who believe that her dedication to creating practical fashion options for women is just a dry business.
However, not only did she stand her mind and help the French fashion house grow exponentially, but she often mocked the hostile gender stereotypes that were hostile to her. In general: when a male designer presents a best-selling collection, people think he is following fashion trends;And when women do this, she is accused of a lack of creativity.
Absolutely!There is no doubt about it," Chiuri said excitedly during the fitting. "But it's because geniuses are only male," she added sarcastically.
She has a simple response to those who think she just wants to design more comfortable clothing for women to increase sales. "No, it's because I want them to be comfortable, because I don't understand why we have to be uncomfortable," she said. "It's not because of my creative process, it's not because of my values, it's because of something else. ”
This conversation is due to the fact that her fashion show this season uses an immersive installation by Italian artist Elena Bellantoni to subvert the advertising image and challenge the male gaze by displaying feminist slogans on the walls of a hot cube tent in the Tuileries Garden in Paris.
Chiuri believes that in an era where social platforms are constantly popping up in large numbers, it is crucial to develop a critical eye. "It's also a way to question myself, because I've received these **, and maybe in the past I wasn't so deeply aware of it. Now, I have a more mature perspective," she reflects.
As a creative director, as part of my industry, because I'm part of this industry as well, the risk is that I may repeat stereotypes," she added. "It's also my responsibility. ”
But in this regard, she is not worried. Her collection this season continues Chiuri's classic style: a fusion of feminine and masculine elements, inspired by the House's archives, this time with founder Christian Dior's 1948 Abandon dress, whose unexpectedly asymmetric neckline exposes broad shoulders.
Her designs are slightly looser at the waist, while some of the new designs include a slit shirt with a single extra-long sleeve, paired with everything from a pleated skirt with a dark print to a pair of faded blue cargo pants. And the boyfriend blazer is a modern alternative to the brand's signature hourglass-shaped bar jacket.
One of the black apron dresses was printed with a ghostly image of the Eiffel Tower, inspired by a ** by photographer Brigitte Niedermair, a female photographer under Chiuri's name, despite a striking resemblance to a similar ** by Hiroshi Sugimoto. Even more distinctive are the sheer floral motifs, as well as the pagan sun symbol woven into the crochet lining.
Chiuri's range of all-black looks includes spider web knits inspired by rebellious women who have historically been known as witches. The denim jacket and skate shorts are scorched around the edges, a bit too blunt as a reminder that some of these unconventional women were burned to death (Chiuri's inspiration board features an image of Joan of Arc played by Ingrid Bergman).
A more modern reference might be Wednesday (Wednesday) Adams, whose goth-girl vibe runs through the collection, including cool sisal sneakers. Jenna Ortega, who played this role in the Netflix series "Wednesday", is one of the new Dior brand ambassadors. It's no surprise that Chiuri is a fan of this show. "I love her," she declared. "Super cool. ”
There's no doubt that the subtleties of this collection may once again be beyond the reach of skeptics on fashion Twitter. It's a pity, because Chiuri is smiling and walking towards the bank.