The well-known online watch magazine "Hodinkee" said in a 2017 article:
Jackie's Cartier is not so much a watch as it is a representation of both Jackie and time. ”
The Jackie referred to in the text refers to Jacqueline Kennedy, as John F. KennedyKennedy, who may have been the first first lady in American history to be known for her style.
Jacqueline Kennedy's TANK watch is engraved on the back.
stas to jackie
23 feb. 63 2:05 am to 9:35 pm”
Commemorate her support for her husband's 50-mile hike.
How does a work represent a person?What kind of works can carry human emotions and stories?
The answer may not be complicated.
eureka！(I found out!.)）
Louis Cartier, the third generation of Cartier, became close friends with pioneering aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont because ......of similar interests
Louis Cartier (left).
Albert Sandoz Dumont (right).
But their friendship was not limited to the French Flying Club, and the two often had dinner together at the most popular restaurant in Paris at the time, Maxime, and exchanged some new ideas for each other.
Illustration of the gathering of celebrities at Maxim's restaurant at the time.
After dinner, Sandos and Louis complained that they had failed to compete in the flight time trial for the first time because they had taken out their pocket watches to check the time while flying, and had lost control of the airship with both hands. According to reports at the time, Louis exclaimed on the spot: "Eureka!."(I thought of it!)—and so, an almost crazy inspiration burst out, and it was bornThe first wristwatch in the modern sense of the word
In the early 20th century, timekeeping was only a decoration of women's jewelry rather than a "function", and men still preferred pocket watches that fit in suit pockets as a symbol of a gentleman. But after listening to his friend's words, Louis began to wonder if he could design a timepiece with a smaller dial and a wristband that could be worn on the wrist by men, so that Sandoz could more easily check the time during the flight and complete each flight with concentration and safety.
Sandoz, who piloted the Raptor, was a big star at the time.
In order to break the preconception that only women wear a timepiece on their wrist, the new design had to be reinvented. At the same time, because Sandoz was a celebrity at the time, his personality was flamboyant, and his every move attracted the attention of the public, so the design of this watch had to stand up to more scrutiny.
A flying machine designed by Sandoz.
It combines innovation, aesthetics and simplicity and has attracted wide attention.
Eventually, Louie conceived and drew on the canvas repeatedlySantos watchesAnd so it was born. Don't look at this watch, which was originally a gift from Louis for a friend, but inadvertently rewrote the way the timer was worn.
Detail of the design of the Santos de Cartier collection.
After that, Sandoz won the competition with the watch, and he was so pleased with the gift that he appeared in newspapers all over the world wearing it. When the public found out, they asked, "What is he tied to his wrist?"Sandus would have replied that it was a Cartier.
Sandos is not only capable, but also handsome and elegant.
When Louis decided to officially introduce the watch to the market in 1911, he named it aftersantos de cartier, and Sandos gladly agreed.
Emotion is not self-moving, but the heart to experience the most delicate needs of others. To this day,Santos de Cartier collectionContinuing the classic design of the original Louis gift to Sandoz, the pioneering spirit of the two gentlemen is still alive.
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Santos de Cartier watches.
Some innovations stem from the exploration of emotions, while others inspire a variety of emotional expressions, as is the case with the TANK. During the First World War, Louis Cartier was forced into the army, and although he experienced the brutality of war, the young man who cared for the family business had another great idea born out of it. He later claimed that during a tour of the front line, he saw the original tank, and his fascination with mechanical aesthetics led him to think about designing a wristwatch, and the TANK watch was born.
The rectangular case of the Tank is inspired by the top view of a tank.
The 100-year-old TANK watch has many famous stories in history, such as Andy Warhol and Truman Garcia Capote. But like the friendship between Louis and Sandoz, the wearer of the TANK has a great and profound story of friendship. That was Catherine Deneuve and Yves Saint Laurent.
Catherine Deneuve was the eternal muse of the French, and her friendship with Yves Saint Laurent was famous, and both were big fans of TANK watches. You can imagine the scene in the 60s of the last century, when these two busy friends were drinking coffee on the banks of the Seine, and at the same time raising their hands to remind each other of the time with their TANK watches, a beautiful emotion will always be remembered.
Catherine Deneuve wears the TANK (top left).
Yves Saint Laurent wears a TANK watch (right).
Half a century later, the official poster of this year's Cannes Film Festival shows a scene from Catherine Deneuve filming Madness in 1968, reminiscent of the elusive, bold and uninhibited personal style of the flower of Europe at the time. Coincidentally, the same technique was applied in this year's Cartier Tank Fran Aise campaign, inviting Catherine Deneuve to travel from "The Umbrella of Cherbourg" and wear a Tank Fran Aise watch full of French style.
Catherine Deneuve's "Madness" filming scene-
Official poster of the 2023 Festival de Cannes (left).
Catherine Deneuve photographing the Cartier Tank Fran Aise.
Advertising campaign (right).
Capture subtle emotions
It is said that at the beginning of the 19th century, at a time when his jewelry peers were meditating on Art Nouveau, Louis Cartier was inspired by this: he attended a wide range of parties, talked heartily with his friends, and understood their innermost emotions, which were secret, warm, sincere and unique, inspired by all aspects of life.
One of Louis Cartier's most frequent friends was Jean Cocteau, known for his line drawings and surrealist films, an avant-garde artist, painter, sculptor, screenwriter, director, and one of the most important French poets of the 20th centuryCartier Trinity ring。Initially, Jean Cocteau told his friend Louis Cartier about his longing for his lover and his dream after his unexpected death, which he asked if Louis could turn into a ring, and Louis agreed.
Jean Cocteau.
Louis began by eschewing the Art Deco style that was popular in the 1920s to create jewellery with the idea of creating artistic sculptures (note that Jean Cocteau was also a sculptor), interweaving three simple but different materials and colors of bands to create a dreamlike halo like a star in the universe, and the Trinity ring was born. Since then, Jean Cocteau has worn two Trinity rings for most of his life, which have become his personal symbol.
Detail of the design of the Trinity ring.
The three rings are intertwined and intertwined, yet they are free to move, and like all timeless and precious emotions, they are deeply bound to each other while maintaining their independence. No wonder Jean Cocteau said: "Cartier is like an elusive magician, piercing the sparkling moonlight with a ray of sunshine". Cartier always seems to be able to capture and understand subtle, personal, and even unconventional emotions, and then translate them into a design language that is understandable to all.
Cartier Trinity ring.
It is worth mentioning that a few years ago, Cartier financed the restoration of Jean Cocteau's former residence in the south of Paris, so that the great artist's mansion could be permanently admired.
The restored former residence of Jean Cocteau in the south of Paris.
Powerful feminine emotional resonance
At the beginning of the 20th century, Paris was a vibrant city with a variety of art movements, where art, design and aesthetics became a social currency. Many artists from poor backgrounds have benefited from this, including Jeanne Toussaint from a small Belgian town.
The young Toussaint was known for being fashionable and creative, but at the same time strong, enterprising and difficult to please, qualities that impressed Louis Cartier. Then, in the 1910s, when women were rarely part of the jewelry design team, Louis was the first to break the mold and let her join Cartier, and so did sheThe first female creative director in the history of jewelry
Jean Toussaint. Louis began to let Toussaint go deep into Cartier's design and creation, so from 1919, Toussaint frequently integrated cheetah elements into his design, and gradually became the legendary "Cheetah Lady" in everyone's mouth. Her style is gradually recognized by high society, but she still lacks a few "muses" who want to subvert the tradition of male dominance in the jewelry world.
Jean Toussaint and her cheetah series.
But the jewellery world has also found that Toussaint's unrivalled sense of style and strong inner strength allow her to understand some of the world's most intimidating and trendy women, such as the Duchess of Windsor. It is said that the Duchess of Windsor has always been steadfast in her choice of Cartier, in part because of her close relationship with Toussaint. Both women have an inner strength and know what it means to gain prestige in society despite all odds.
In 1948, the Duke of Windsor commissioned Cartier to customize a one-of-a-kind cheetah brooch for his wife, and the order was rightfully entrusted to Toussaint. Toussaint was keenly aware of this meaning and pioneered the creation of a façade cheetah, a three-dimensional cheetah full of movement, freedom and wild beauty, just like the Duchess of Windsor, who is not easily slandered by rumors.
The Duchess of Windsor wears a cheetah brooch.
Not at all, when the Duchess appeared in public view wearing this Cartier cheetah brooch, a cheetah craze hit. A year later, the Duchess ordered a Cartier cheetah brooch from Toussaint, which accompanied her to many important occasions. Although the Duchess was harshly criticized for her abdication, her style is still admired and influenced to this day.
The Duchess of Windsor wears a cheetah brooch.
There is a passage in the introduction to Mrs. Simpson that may explain Toussaint's deep sympathy with the Duchess: "Although she was not beautiful in the usual sense, she had a unique taste and exuded real personal charm." She is strong-willed and strives to overcome her own shortcomings. She takes pride in seeing herself as an explorer, a woman who can control not only herself but also everything in a man's world. "So it was with the Duchess of Windsor, and so it was with Toussaint.
Panthère de Cartier cheetah bracelet.
A personal expression of extreme emotion
The Duchess of Windsor's most formidable rival of her time was none other than thatDaisy Farros（daisy fellowes）。Jean Cocteau once said of her: "She has set more fashion trends than any other woman in the world." "She dreams of being a fashion icon, setting trends, and in her opinion, Cartier is the same.
But Daisy Farros was never a simple rich girl, and many sources have shown her to be extremely wealthy, extremely elegant, but also extremely dangerous. She was one of the most powerful women of her time, and the famous fashion editor Diana Vreeland once described her as "damned elegance", which shows her strong style and personality that people love and hate.
Among its many Cartier creations, it has to be mentioned that the one recorded in the Cartier archives can be calledTutti Frutti Fruit Tip StyleThe hindu necklace of the iconic piece. At the time, Cartier's fondness for the fruity style was in the heart of Daisy Farros: she was an important patron of the Ballets Russes and loved to hold oriental-style balls.
Daisy Faros wears a hindu necklace.
So when she wore a leopard-print haute couture gown and a Hindu necklace to Charles de Beistegui's "Ball of the Century" at the Palazzo Labia in Venice, the "Queen of Africa" shocked the audience. Daisy Farros knows the impact she has on those around her, so she is content with this appearance.
Daisy Faros wears a hindu necklace to the ball.
This necklace is an important part of the history of jewelry, but according to the Cartier Family Biography, although the necklace retains the original Indian style, there is one very significant difference: in India, sapphires are considered ominous and are rarely used (it is said that blue represents the sky and can be disorienting), while this jewelry uses a lot of sapphires, and the bold idea is very much in line with Daisy Farros's style.
After Daisy Farros's death, the fruit-inspired hindu necklace was inherited by her eldest daughter and commissioned Cartier to transform it into a choker necklace, showing a new life and style.
Daisy Farros-Hindu necklace (top).
Daisy Farros's eldest daughter - hindu choker (bottom).
Nowadays, the history of Cartier is also an emotional journey, and those unique souls, when they meet Cartier, collide with great emotional energy, forming a very personalized and incomparable style.
Why can't Cartier's style be surpassed?
Perhaps it's because the story of humanity itself cannot be replicated, and there will always be a new story between Cartier and the next person.
At the end of the year, let Cartier's "Circumnavigation of the Temple" convey those emotions that cannot be easily expressed, and continue to write your new story. ❤️
More Cartier Love bracelet.
Cartier juste un clou
Series necklaces. panthère de cartier
Series watches.