Haibo night reading丨Ancient taste drifting across the sea a line pulls

Mondo Entertainment Updated on 2024-01-19

Figure 丨Office of the Coordination Group for the Protection and Development of the Ancient City of Quanzhou.

Drifting across the ocean is a "line" pull

Edited by the Office of the Coordination Group for the Protection and Development of the Ancient City of Quanzhou.

Read aloud丨Zhang Bei.

Quanzhou pillow mountain faces the sea, since ancient times to the boat as the car, to the sea as the road, once prosperous to "Yunshan Baiyue Road, the market of ten continents". A sea route also allowed countless Quanzhou sages to "scatter along the Maritime Silk Road like dandelion seeds", taking root and spreading leaves in Southeast Asia and even further foreign countries.

Quanzhou has a population of more than 8.7 million, but there are nearly 10 million overseas Chinese living abroad. In Quanzhou, these overseas Chinese who go to sea by the monsoon are called "Fanke". In Chinese history, the foreign objects introduced from foreign countries in the Ming Dynasty were usually called "fan", such as tomatoes and sweet potatoes.

People overseas, eating, is the hometown of the most known taste. There are several staple food specialties in Quanzhou, which are most missed, such as noodles, Hutou rice noodles, Hui'an sweet potato noodles, Yongchun Bangshe turtle and white duck soup, fried winter noodles, lo mein, fried rice noodles and so on.

I remember that in the 90s of the 20th century, there were often visitors in the village who returned to their hometowns to visit their relatives. Before they left, there were three or two pieces of clothes in the huge suitcase, and the most space was reserved for the hometown flavor that they thought about and thought: a few stacks of noodles and a few stacks of Hutou rice noodles. Aunt Fanke fixed them as if they were precious things, and did not let the journey over the mountains and seas crush them. These noodles and rice noodles were brought to Southeast Asia, and the fans only gave a little to their best hometown friends. That is the most precious gift. When I miss it the most, take it out, cook a bowl, eat until I forget about things, and eat until my heart is sour and warm.

In Quanzhou, there are two ways to make noodles, one is the most well-known noodle batter, and the other is enough to serve as a staple food to feed your noodle soup. There are many kinds of noodle soup, such as pork knuckle noodles, red mushroom noodles, shiitake mushroom noodles, shrimp noodles, and the most popular taro noodles.

Speaking of which, although the ingredients of taro noodles are common, they are the most labor-intensive. To pay attention to a little bit, the soup base needs to be slowly boiled with large bones, and the betel nut taro is cut into small pieces and cooked in the soup. Stir-fry shiitake mushrooms, dried shrimp and scallops in lard, add soup base and taro, sprinkle in the cut daylily, add noodles, simmer over fire, and sprinkle some scallion oil when out of the pot. A bowl of taro noodles looks like a warm paste, and it tastes both the fragrant and glutinous flavor of taro and the softness of the noodles. Without a little chewing, it slips into the stomach and irons the internal organs.

In the southern Fujian restaurant, there are not many places where you can eat taro noodles, and the "pick-up" of the ancient city is one of them.

Anchor |Zhang Bei.

The article is selected from "D Tune Quanzhou: Ancient Taste".

Strait Literature and Art Publishing House.

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Editors: Liu Yan, Duan Shengqi.

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