Xining
When I came to Xining again, the dry air and rampant demon wind made people feel uncomfortable, and the elevator could not operate normally due to the strong wind when I checked into the hotel.
Xining's most famous attraction is Ta'er Monastery, one of the most important monasteries of the Gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism and the birthplace of Lama Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Yellow Sect. The temple is magnificent, rich in treasures, and rich in religious atmosphere.
Taer Temple is located in Huangzhong County, more than an hour's drive from the main city. When you get off the bus and head to Taal Temple, the street trees have lost their leaves, each lined with a little snow. There are a number of shops specializing in religious supplies on both sides of the road, selling Buddhist items such as Buddha statues and prayer wheels. Walking forward through the snow, you can see some lamas coming from time to time.
When you enter the temple, the first thing you see is several pilgrims, three steps and one prostration. Although the weather is cold, the temperature of faith only increases. Walking to the square, you can see more and more pilgrims walking around the temple in a clockwise direction.
Another is to kowtow in place. Generally, at the temple hall, while chanting the six-character mantra in the mouth, the hands are folded, raised above the head, and then prostrate on the ground. In front of the Great Golden Tile Hall, many worshippers are kowtowing, so that the rough wooden floor is worn out to a smooth surface. Although several Tibetan children did not understand the reason for the Hajj, they also made the Hajj in a similar way.
The Taal temple is large in scale and consists of several groups of temples with a total history of more than 600 years. The small one offers a few Buddha statues, blesses the believers with good health, and the big one has hundreds of seats in the Panchen Palace, and can listen to the monks' discussions. Among them, the most important main hall is the big golden tile hall, which was built in 1560 A.D., and in 1711 A.D. with **1300 taels, **10,000 taels changed the roof to the golden roof, forming a three-layer heavy eaves mountain type golden roof. The ground floor of the main hall is a sulfur glazed brick wall, and a golden plaque given by Emperor Qianlong is hung above: "Sanskrit Dharma Building".
Non-believers are often shocked by people with faith, from the traditional point of view, most of the Chinese have no faith, for religion, more respect than faith. Martin Jacques's view is very convincing to solve this problem, Chinese believe and worship their ancestors, and those ancestors who have overcome obstacles for us are the beliefs of Chinese!
This can also be glimpsed from the legends, such as Yugong moving mountains, Jingwei reclamation, Dayu water control, etc., which tell the story of human ancestors conquering nature. Of course, it is better for people to have faith, but complete non-belief makes people have no sense of reverence and are more dangerous.
The so-called faith is the support in the wind and snow, and the spiritual power that points to the reality and the future.
Qinghai-Tibet Railway
The train departed from Xining and entered the wilderness in a short time.
From the official start of construction on September 1, 1958 to the opening of the whole line on July 1, 2006, the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway spanned two centuries and was a well-deserved major project.
Before the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, there was the Qinghai-Tibet Highway.
When the Qinghai-Tibet Highway was built, New China had just been founded, and in order to stabilize the situation, troops of the Northwest Military Region were sent to escort the Panchen back to Tibet and supplies to Tibet. The soldiers carried supplies with animals, trekked through mountains and rivers in Tibetan areas where there were no roads, crossed snow-capped mountains and salt lakes, and endured altitude sickness to complete the task. However, the use of animals to transport supplies is extremely costly, and the other is that many animals cannot adapt to the climate, and a total of 40,000 animals died on the way. Later, General Mu Shengzhong took 10 sappers and 1,500 kilograms of explosives and 3,000 sapper pickaxes allocated by Marshal ***, and led 1,200 camel workers (most of the camel workers lost their livelihood due to the death of camels, so they invested in the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway), and it took seven months and two days to build the Qinghai-Tibet Highway, leaving the reputation of "the father of the Qinghai-Tibet Highway" in history.
The construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway was even more difficult.
The first construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway was dismounted in the great difficulties caused by man-made disasters and natural disasters in those years. The retreating troops could only go to the cold Gobi Desert to dig wild hemp roots and lock up the sun to satisfy their hunger.
The three major problems of permafrost, high cold and hypoxia, and fragile ecology have also greatly hindered the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway. In order to overcome these problems, the country has invested a lot of manpower and material resources to overcome them, and the sacrifices and dedication in them cannot be written in a few words.
Wu Ziwang, a permafrost expert, has struggled for the Qinghai-Tibet Railway for 40 years and completed the whole process of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway nearly 100 times. In the most difficult years of his life, he often had to go to the military stations along the Qinghai-Tibet Highway to pick up the leftover meals of the soldiers, and was known as a "begging for food" scientist. Scientific researchers Zhou Huaizhen and Sun Jianmin were masters and apprentices, and their hands were frozen in the cold snow cellar, and they did not miss a single piece of data, and countless Spring Festivals were spent on this deserted mountain. Countless predecessors have used their lives to compose poems for the construction of the Qinghai-Tibet Railway, which is a gift they send to the future.
In times of peace, there are not too many people thinking about history, so it needs to be repeated again and again. Today, all the peace in the world is the result of the struggle of our ancestors all their lives. And a few short pages and a few sentences in the history and politics book are their whole life of struggle for ideals.
The wind volcano is the gateway from Golmud to Lhasa. The altitude is 5010 meters, the average annual temperature is -7, and the extreme minimum temperature is -408. There is no summer there, only a prolonged winter. When the train arrived at the wind volcano, there was already a clear feeling of lack of oxygen, and I wanted to sleep several times but could not sleep due to lack of oxygen, and it is hard to imagine that the ancestors could complete the construction of this section of the railway under such conditions.
Now that I am crossing the plateau by train, and the snow-capped mountains and meadows and Gobi Salt Lakes on both sides pass all the way, how can I not be moved by the sacrifices of my predecessors?
Haizi and Delingha
When the train arrived in Delingha again, there was still unfinished snow on the ground, and I stayed overnight in Delingha a few months ago, but I didn't understand Haizi's mood at that time. I had plenty of time to think on the train, so I immersed myself in Haizi's poetry.
Sister, I'm in Delingha tonight, and the night is shrouded.
Sister, I only have the Gobi tonight.
At the end of the prairie, I was empty-handed.
Can't hold a teardrop when grieving.
Sister, I'm in Delingha tonight.
This is a desolate city in the rain.
Except for those who pass by and live.
Delingha. Tonight.
This is the only, last, lyrical.
This is the only, last, steppe.
I give the stone back to the stone.
Let the victory win.
Tonight the barley belongs only to him.
Everything is growing.
Tonight I only have the beautiful Gobi Desert empty.
Sister, I don't care about humans tonight, I only think about you.
The night was deep, and the mood of worship was like the ocean in a storm, and the thousands of thoughts in my heart burned lonely in the wilderness. This incompatible emotion creates a kind of boundless loneliness. On the Gobi Desert, life and death stretch into the distance, and under this night sky, the heart is disoriented. The loneliness in the heart begins to devour everything that can be called faith, love and hate, love and resentment, happiness and sorrow are swallowed up, and they are immersed in boundless pain. When he was in pain, he didn't even have the strength to hold a tear, only aphasia.
Facing the sea, spring flowers blooming", Haizi expressed his hope for tomorrow in simple and unpretentious language. He pinned all his good fortune on tomorrow, but today, he still has to face the mundane world, and he still has to face mental pain.
Death and love are two themes that often appear in Haizi's poetry, and he has also thought a lot about these two themes. However, too much thinking and discourse could not help him break through the current situation, and he was still living in pain, so that he suffered from mental **.
After all, people who know too much are destined to be unhappy.
When Haizi was 25 years old, he said goodbye to this world in a way like lying on the rails. In his poems, he repeatedly told himself that he wanted to be a happy person, but he failed to achieve it after all.
Today's Delingha is no longer the dilapidated and desolate it once was, and I think Haizi would not have written such sad poems if he was in such an environment.
In this world, some behaviors are destined to be incomprehensible, and some people are destined to be lonely for a lifetime.
After 22 hours, the train finally arrived in Lhasa, a holy city that is cared for by countless believers, and a city that has been described again and again by countless literary and artistic youths. Just as I was about to pick up the pen, I suddenly thought of something else, Lhasa, write next time!
The lack of oxygen at night made it impossible for people to sleep, so I wrote a little poem:
A sack on his back.
Walk in this world.
The road ahead is unknown and confused.
It's not because I'm lost.
It's that wandering has no direction.
Follow the mountain river and walk out of a road.
There are no bright colors.
I also lost my warm dreams.
Hunger and desolation.
As if the essence of life.
Close to death. There is no goal.
There is no direction. There is no way ahead.
Behind him is the road. This is my journey.
A man's wandering.