Zhongxin Jingwei, February 23 Topic: Behind the out-of-stock horse-faced skirt, the brand value still needs to be dug deeply.
Author: Li Jie, Special Expert of Sino-Singapore Jingwei, Dean of the School of Fashion of Shandong Institute of Arts and Crafts.
In recent years, the consumption of Hanfu has become more and more popular, especially in this Spring Festival, the horse face skirt has become popular again, which has undoubtedly driven a round of cultural consumption fever. Behind the booming consumption, it should also be noted that the development of both local brands and corporate brands of Hanfu is not perfect. How to tap the brand value behind the cultural consumption craze and create an influential Hanfu clothing brand is a question worth considering.
The hot sale of horse face skirts is the result of responding to consumer demand.
Big data from multiple e-commerce platforms shows that since the beginning of the year, the search volume of Hanfu has skyrocketed, among which the horse-faced skirt has become the most popular item in the Hanfu category. Why did the horse-faced skirt become a "Spring Festival robe"?
The first is the general environment for the inheritance and development of traditional culture. In the field of clothing, 2018 can be called the "first year of the national tide", the rise of national style culture, domestic brands have expanded the market at home and abroad, foreign corporate brands have also vigorously developed Chinese style products, combined with young consumers like fashion design and traditional cultural elements, constituting the current "national tide" fashion.
Second, Hanfu culture has come out of the niche circle and has begun to become popular. Hanfu culture, as a kind of "popular culture", originated at the beginning of this century, and was only used by some Hanfu enthusiasts to communicate online and offline. With the boost of social **, on major social ** platforms, Hanfu culture has gradually begun to become popular. At the same time, more and more attention is paid to the promotion of traditional Chinese culture, in recent years, the local government has supported the holding of Hanfu cultural festivals, Hanfu exhibitions and other activities, providing a good environment and guarantee for the inheritance and development of Hanfu culture, and providing strong support for young people's cultural self-confidence and identity.
The third is the promotion of the horse face skirt by commerce. Previously, the redesign of the horse face skirt of an international brand caused heated discussions, indicating that the aesthetic concept of young people has changed significantly, which not only aroused the stronger cultural confidence and sense of responsibility of many Chinese people, but also caused some thinking about the use of horse face skirt elements in commercial clothing.
Fourth, the horse-faced skirt style is closer to daily life, making it more widely disseminated. The design of the horse face skirt is simple, and the production process can be quickly produced with the assistance of professional machines, which is convenient for manufacturers to quickly launch new products; At the same time, the shape can carry a variety of colors and styles, making it suitable for people of different occasions and ages.
In short, the horse-faced skirt is a consumer product with a typical traditional cultural label. The hot sale reflects people's recognition of traditional culture. This is the affirmation of young people's "national tide" and "national style" consumer goods, and it is also a manifestation of cultural self-confidence. The hot sale of Hanfu, especially the horse face skirt, is the result of conforming to consumer demand, and it can be said that the spiritual needs of this period chose the horse face skirt.
What are the difficulties in building a Hanfu brand?
Behind the increasing popularity of traditional cultural clothing, we should also see that the development of traditional clothing such as Hanfu as an industry is still in the early stage, and there are few personalized Hanfu brands in the market. At present, there are still certain challenges in building influential local brands and personalized corporate brands of Hanfu.
From the perspective of output value, the current Hanfu industry accounts for a relatively small proportion of the overall garment industry, which is not enough to support the development of influential Hanfu brands. As one of the production and sales bases of Hanfu in China, Cao County, Shandong Province, this year, the sales of New Year's clothes for the Year of the Dragon, which are mainly horse-faced skirts, have exceeded 300 million yuan. However, on the whole, the current output value of China's garment industry is more than 3 trillion yuan, and the output value of Hanfu industry is only about 15 billion yuan. The brand building of traditional Chinese clothing, including horse-faced skirts, needs the support of volume, quality and output value in order to better give birth to personalized brands. At the same time, the core of clothing branding is differentiation, and under the current situation that the market share of Hanfu is relatively low, it is difficult to take care of the production capacity and output value of a certain type of brand building.
From the perspective of market maturity, although Hanfu has a long history, but as an industry development maturity is far from enough, the market operation is still at the primary level, from the business concept, commodity concept, color fabric style and other aspects of the process need to be systematically constructed, and at present, it is difficult for small and medium-sized enterprises to achieve the above systematic construction.
To tap the brand value of Hanfu, both local and enterprise are indispensable.
The author believes that Hanfu brand building can be used at the local and enterprise levels in both directions. At the local level, create a business card for the local Hanfu industry and culture. In this regard, it is necessary to give full play to the role of the best platform, and increase the adhesion with enterprises by increasing the research on enterprises; We will intensify efforts to attract investment, do a good job in attracting foreign and internal investment, and further optimize the business environment. For example, Cao County, Shandong Province has a nationally renowned Hanfu production base and first-class chain advantages, or it may be considered to deepen the creation of a Hanfu industry and cultural brand business card. The construction of local brands is often related to the local source production, and for places with Hanfu production advantages, local governments should do a good job of guiding, increasing policy support, and improving the quality of key products in Hanfu. The construction of local brands is not only a business card of the local government, but also can drive rural revitalization, labor and employment, and the construction of a high-quality and complete industrial chain. In the early stage of the construction of local brands, it is necessary to strengthen the "investment and intelligence" to attract talents from all over the country to enter the locality; Strengthen the close integration between design and R&D talents, operation and management talents, marketing talents, etc. and enterprises; Carry out product quality improvement, digital and intelligent construction, and boost industrial upgrading and development.
At the enterprise level, the construction of Hanfu corporate brand should look for its own advantages and form differences with other brands. In the current context of the rapid development of e-commerce, products have become the most critical attraction point, and only good products can attract customers and attract the market. The superficial construction is not conducive to the long-term development of the brand, enterprises should create their own fist products, form a sense of quality, expand sales channels, and find a breakthrough through the market. In this way, a hundred flowers of local brands and corporate brands can be formed, and a complete cultural and commercial ecological chain can be formed.
In addition, whether it is local or enterprise Hanfu brand building, we should pay attention to the inheritance and development of traditional Chinese clothing culture, which is inseparable from the following six elements:
First, we must adhere to integrity and innovation. It is necessary to start from museums, historical materials, ancient books, traditional original materials, etc., to excavate the essence of history, and to combine innovation with the current domestic fashion trend and international fashion trend, especially in the concept, color, fabric, and process details.
Second, strengthen cultural and brand communication. Fully realize that communication power is productivity, at present, traffic is productivity, and the dissemination of excellent traditional Chinese culture is the display and utilization of cultural soft power. Local governments should make full use of online platforms to establish a communication matrix and carry out rapid and effective dissemination of Hanfu culture; Corporate brands should also have their own communication matrix and sales model, so as to drive sales, improve commercial output value, and further strengthen product productivity.
Third, strengthening the protection of intellectual property rights is an important means to protect the product innovation of enterprises and maintain the development of brands. The construction and development of the Hanfu brand in the initial stage is inseparable from the protection of intellectual property rights, without the protection of intellectual property rights, enterprises will slowly lose the power of product innovation and research and development, and it will also be more unfavorable to the shaping of personalized and influential brands. In this regard, the local government should strengthen the construction and guidance of this work. For example, Cao County has done outstanding work in this regard, and the application for a design patent can be completed within 10 days.
Fourth, build a high-quality and high-level academic platform to provide a steady stream of innovative development ideas for local governments and enterprises. For example, by carrying out industry seminars, establishing academic R&D and promotion centers, and building academic platforms, we will lead the professional and sustainable development of Hanfu local brands and corporate brands.
Fifth, local governments and enterprises should pay attention to the situational construction of industrial clusters and commodities. Industrial clusters are conducive to resource sharing and improving efficiency. Those who have the conditions in the context construction can appropriately assist the construction of cultural and tourism industry projects, and those who lack the conditions can use AI intelligence to build commodity scenes, and strive to achieve cultural leadership and cultural empowerment.
Sixth, further inherit and sort out the traditional etiquette culture, and strive to use Hanfu in the process of festival etiquette, so that Hanfu can enter the people's lives in order to have long-term development vitality. (Zhongxin Jingwei app).
This article is selected and edited by the Sino-Singapore Jingwei Research Institute, and the works produced by the selection are all rights reserved, and no unit or individual may use it in any other way without written authorization. The views involved in the selected content only represent those of the original author and do not necessarily represent the views of Sino-Singapore Jingwei.
Editor in charge: Zhang Zhihan.
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