Fall/Winter 2024 Fashion Month is at its final destination. Compared to previous cities, the pace of Paris is always as tight as the race against the clock. The successive release schedules break down the 24 hours into countless small events, but one day, the lights of the Eiffel Tower will be lit up at night, and this night light will only stop for Saint Laurent. 
The cold night faded through the Saint Laurent runway as the choking scent of YSL's iconic 'Opium' black opium perfume filled the air. The lights are ambiguous, and the ground is dappled with light and water like the streets of Paris at night. 
Anthony Vaccarello has always had a penchant for depicting an ethereal atmosphere, always starting with the enigmatic Parisian woman, allowing the story to be contextualized. The dimly lit and confined space creates a special atmosphere of a traditional salon show, with a figure-of-eight circular structure adorned with emerald velvet brocade draperies, a tribute to the Saint Laurent Museum on the **Enue Marceau in Paris. 
The edges of the giant dome are shimmered with light, reminiscent of director Villeneuve, known for his aesthetic and visual style, and his upcoming sci-fi films. As the strings play in the twists and turns, Yves Saint Laurent's Winter 2024** collection is on the way. Nude with color
When the first look was revealed, anyone familiar with Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello should have a rough idea of the entire collection. He always writes finely, concisely and accurately, often only aiming at the bullseye of one design layout, framing fancy and layers from the inside out, and never dragging mud and water. Sheer is the bullseye of the season. 
Subsequent models confirmed this conjecture. The silk dress with a see-through design is cut to a close-fitting silhouette that is as subtle as a delicate X-ray image. 
The style of women's jumpsuits** has been reinvented, lifting to the bust and transforming into a provocative translucent bodysuit, which makes the heart sway. A silk skirt wraps around the waist and is accentuated by a metallic buckle leather belt for the complete look.
Inspired by women's blouses, ** suits and evening dresses, the shapes are spread out over a large area, and the gently wrinkled pleats of georgette adhere to the surface of the skin like clouds. Sand color, olive green, burgundy red, ochre and other natural colors belonging to autumn and winter penetrate the wall between the clothes and **, thus revealing the naked color inside.
The seasonality of autumn and winter is carried over by a few strokes. Gone are the hourglass silhouettes and wide-shouldered coats that were replicated from previous seasons, replaced by fluffy fur woven from rich bird feathers and crisply cut lapel blazers.
But how can the extremely cold Saint Laurent girls dress well?So they hooked their expensive fur coats around their arms and swayed unapologetically, revealing their innermost desires and ambitions. The presumptuousness of their actions points to the non-avoidance of secular taboos, and perhaps for them, secular discipline is not in the scope of consideration.
Focusing on the details, the wide-brimmed bracelet stacked on the slender wrist returns and is moulded in the same transparent material. Three-dimensional geometric earrings hug the jawline, and handmade artwork originating from African tribes is transformed into a contemporary twist. The dark knitted yarn hat is tightly wrapped to reveal a graceful sense of abstinence. Looking back at previous seasons, it's not hard to see that this is exactly the signature image of Anthony Vaccarello's Yves Saint Laurent.
Maybe Anthony Vaccarello has his own Guanguan class. Although the notes on the show are not stated, fashion researchers who know his aesthetic system must have heard the name of Nancy Cunard. She was first revealed as a key inspiration for the house's Fall/Winter 2022 collection, and her style traces are still visible throughout the past three seasons at Saint Laurent.
Born in London and died in Paris, this strange woman who lived a life against the times left behind not only the memories of social evenings, but also poetry, literature, art and independent spirit in the Jazz Age. The soul of the Eternal Muse haunts the Saint Laurent runway, and the will of the rebel heiress 100 years ago continues to guide the women of Saint Laurent this century. “me free me”
Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello didn't pull out the perspective from the archives for no reason, it was a pre-announced performance. At the beginning of last month, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris opened a six-month exhibition dedicated to the founder's classic design "Sheer". During this period, 40 pieces of fashion revolution were unveiled, including two precious manuscripts by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 and 1968.
Theoretically, transparency is at odds with the original function of clothing, and autumn and winter are even more desirable. But Yves Saint Laurent was keen to delve into this contradiction, and in the 1960s he created coutures in chiffon, lace and tulle that allowed the contours of the female body to stretch freely, and eventually left a message: "It is important to keep their mysterious essence ......."”
And in this Winter 2024 ** collection, nearly 80% of the looks are dominated by see-through, and the body declaration of chanting "Free the Nipple" has been transformed into a silent but powerful cry. You can see it as a provocation to any kind of orthodox dress code.
On the bright side, this season's Yves Saint Laurent girl has the most intuitive **. But the way they walk, the curvature of their arms, and the drop of their eyes are all intended to convey: they are born like this, they disdain to please anyone, and they don't bother to show anything.
In fact, if you don't reprocess and code, the number of looks in the series that can survive on social ** will not exceed 15. But the "avoidance" of the public sphere does not stop the fanatical fashion critics from wielding a knife, and the comments from the outside world are predictable, and they are nothing more than entangled in the two micro-words of "exposure" and "repetition". If you don't put clothes to wear underneath, I am afraid that even the representative faces of fashion houses will be difficult to resist. Artistic expression, on the other hand, does not have to be compatible with real experience. Pure creators will put the "How to wear? Who is it for? Forget about boring questions, and the clothes will also actively choose the wearer who suits it.
Creators are most afraid of self-censorship, but luckily Anthony Vaccarello is not a fashion house that goes with the flow. In his nearly 8 years in office, he has already condensed a set of aesthetic systems independent of secular fashion, and has become proficient in extracting heritage archives, adding his own radical expression on this basis to respond to the current homogenized fashion world. "There are so many things in fashion these days that all look the same. I want to do something that I haven't done before, and that excites me, and I don't always do something real or realistic. ”
Now it seems that Anthony Vaccarello and Saint Laurent have smoothly slipped through the delicate cycle of the so-called seven-year itch, and even sparked a new spark of love. The lifting of the ban on the body and the spirit should be linked in one vein, and this is Anthony Vaccarello's determination to lift the ban for himself and for the women of Yves Saint Laurent. Source: Provided by the brand, ic, Instagram