Let's talk about it, there are so many fish in the world: squid head, rotten eyes, shrimp and crabs. But if you send it carefully, regardless of the hospitality and gifts, the wedding day, and the father and mother, there is no fish on the table, and even the stalls of jellyfish skins and shrimp and white rotten insects are not ranked. Don't say that the sun is now in full swing, even if there are so many miscellaneous fish heads on the island before the sixties that Chenguang has no status with fish, it is really sad, very wronged, and very unconvinced!
In fact, the hairtail fish is really the fish that the vast number of revolutionary masses and poor middle peasants eat the most, eat for a long time, and have the best nutrition and taste—authentic civilian fish, cheap and good, and affordable! Historically, there have been prime ministers, governors, ministers, workers, tycoons, writers, and entertainers. No matter how powerful a person is, he will always have a little fishy smell of fish.
Although I also belong to a series with no routines and no interest on the island, my love for ribbon fish is unwavering and unrepentant. For me, I went to dozens of places all over the world to work and find food, and the hairtail fish always ranked first among the meat dishes that I ate and ate to eat, but none of the hairtail fish in the world tasted as good as the hairtail fish on my own island.
After the Spring Festival in the winter flood, sitting on the long bench next to the table of the eight immortals, the chopsticks and bamboo head stretched out to pry open the frozen salted hairtail fish in the safflower bowl: the meat is thick, and the bite falls, the indescribable oily, salty, mellow and unique hairtail taste is really the world's best taste; In the summer field, the sea breeze blows the small wine and squeaks, the small table bench Erlang's legs are cocked, and a bowl of pickled hairtail, hairtail fish, and hairtail fish yuan are full of saliva on the side of the mouth, and the three bowls of cold soup and rice are delicious - being a man is like being a man.
My mother said that I was easy to deceive when I was a child, and I said that I could deceive for 30 miles. From snacks to big, no nonsense, fresh ribbon fish with wide belts, chewing and scraping the whole bite with the mouth, not spitting out a bone and half a thorn, and pulling out the squirrel, which is still glutinous rice ball-glutinous. Grandma laughed at me: Your throat is really invulnerable.
Now I think: I painted that big picture of Chenguang, the second floor fell and was paralyzed for five or six years, and I can still climb and stand up like a Chinese ape-man, and I have eaten so many hairtail fish bones since I was a child.
In fact, the people on this island who love to eat hairtail fish more than me pick up a handful of ashes, and there are many of them! That year, I went on a business trip with the leader A Zhu, A Zhu did not eat the braised pork lunch box on the train, and Chen Guang opened the aluminum alloy lunch box brought at home, and there was still a trace of hot rice covered with a few muffled salted ribbon fish. Then lightly spitted a bunch of fish bones in the lid of the lunch box, carefully packed in the lunch box, the face rippled with that incomprehensible sense of satisfaction, mysteriously explained: When we arrived in the provincial capital, there could be no salted ribbon fish waiting for us, how to do it, there is no fishy smell of rice, and it does not fall into the stomach, and the breastbone is lifted.
In fact, the island has fallen for thousands of years, and the whole old kitten has been reincarnated, and the breath of the fish has soaked into our bones. Nachenguang Island is poor, and almost every family eats every day without hairtail: steamed hairtail, pickled hairtail, salted hairtail, radish hairtail, braised hairtail, fried hairtail, plus wind hairtail, salted hairtail, bad hairtail, hairtail, hairtail. Ho yo daddy! I can't tell if the toe veins are broken.
Most of the people on the island rely on the fish to sell fish to get by, and the high-grade fish themselves are reluctant to eat, that is, to buy a house and a boat to beg for a wife, all rely on these fish. At home, three meals a day on the table basically rely on the ribbon fish to support the market, probably scarce is expensive, the number of other fish is small, the taste has its own way, but there are more fish, more is cheap, in fact, I know very well that it is cheap.
I grew up on a small fishing island, and I ate hundreds of millions of fish, including yellow croaker, leyu, qingzhan, jade bald, horse jiao, squid, plum boy, shrimp murmuring, and even shrimp skin sea meander. Although the hairtail has no status, and the Spring Festival and good days can't be on the table, there is a saying that what raised me and made me eat is the hairtail with a long waist and a silver shiny tip with a thin chin and nail teeth - I am very grateful, very guilty, I'm sorry, I'm really sorry - hairtail!
That Chenguang ribbon fish all year round, spring flood and autumn field began to more, before and after the winter solstice, the same as the mountain, that is shiny and strong meat chest thick all year round top delicious Chenguang. Ribbon fish also know that we are going to celebrate the New Year, except for the big imperial belt is not very visible, three or four finger vein wide fishing belt net belt over the mountain like a bright eye to pull in.
The fish-cutting people on the island are divided into two types according to the size of the eyes of the hairtail: big eyes and small eyes. The big eyes are foreign hairtail fish, the eyes are dim and yellow, and the two eyes are black and hairy, and they don't know what to see, and they are astigmatized. This kind of foreign hairtail fish is not good to look ugly, the bones are thick and the body is short, but the strength is large, the meat is relatively coarse, chewing a mouthful of scum for a long time, the locals do not like to eat - Kakou.
The small eyes are the inland hairtail fish, that is, the local hairtail fish in the area of our fishing islands, and there are also names for them as crony, fat, oil, and tooth belts. Their eyes are small but focused, exquisite, jewelry, two crystals embedded on both sides of the silver knife, like the little girls on the island are born with slender strips, Tingting curling demon Ji Demon Ji is good-looking, if the underwater world has a beauty contest, it is no problem to take fish to get a "Miss Global Underwater Silver" award. The people on the island are really blessed, the sea here is basically small eyes, basically all the best looking and delicious hairtail fish. 
Every time the wind blows, the fishing port is full of fishing boats, and the barns and piers of the boats are stacked with bright eyelets filled with fresh hairtail fish through the bones, and the fishmen squint and laugh and shout, and carry and drag the hairtail fish to all parts of the shore island with a fat throat. On that day, my mother's students and friends would carry the shiny silver hairtail fish into my house, and the teacher shouted, and the bright eyes were on the ground and slammed into the ground, no thanks! I will turn around and leave again, mostly because they all know that their teacher's family is in difficulty, their husband is not working, and it is not easy to rely on the teacher's 30 pieces of copper water and oligosoup to support their husband and three little naughty men.
I especially remember the student named Dai Zhuangyue, who grew up, was red, simple, and loyal. After graduating from junior high school, I got off the boat, and I always sent fish to my house every time the wind blew up. What I will never forget is that day and night, he actually carried a hairtail fish as wide as a long stool, and hung it on the beam between the dark clusters of kitchens in my house. It was a big hairtail fish that I had rarely seen, twenty centimeters wide and determined. Talk about it or not, that momentum, that shape, that light, the sky is as cold and shining as the Longquan sword, and the stove house is shining, and the old man who is fishing on the island can't gossip when he sees it. I have always remembered the ribbon fish, the giant imperial belt that became an immortal, and I also remember my mother's student for a lifetime, Dai Zhuangyue, who read for three years and gave the teacher a lifetime of fish.
When it came to the foot of the sun, the town was divided into the front and back of the stove, washed and washed, the stove fire was introduced, and the bellows were raised. It's too late to do it carefully, the bright hairtail fish is slaughtered in a boring pot, the pure natural taste, the big hairtail meat is thick, take advantage of the fresh big boring pot to do it on a fire, sprinkle the salt. That Chenguang Island does not need oil to make fish, every household has no oil, this season's hairtail is originally oil, as long as a little sea salt, a few ginger, a few scoops of water, boring pot cover, spatula digging, out of the whole fishing town oil smeared with incense and authentic "clear water ribbon fish" innocent taste.
Shanghai, Hangzhou and other outsiders are not blessed, that Chenguang has no ice boat, no sailboat, this fish is not icy, relying on the artificial swing of the big oar to pull the sail, woo Zega is about to shake to Shanghai fish stink. I tried to do it, that Chenguang Shanghai and Hangzhou have never been able to eat oily and fresh hairtail, so they rely on oil, sugar, wine, vinegar, onions, ginger, and garlic. This hairtail fish said goodbye, so that it lost a little bit of its own air, and it all ate the taste of others. The top thing that is incomprehensible is that the hairtail fish that is quickly transported to the Shanghai restaurant is already tired of messing up, and it is necessary to get a kitchen knife to wipe it, and the silver film white sand on the outside of the hairtail fish is shiny and nutritious, and the taste is fresh, and the white sand is scraped until the shirtless and red eggs are alive and gone, and then a lot of various seasonings are poured on it. Listening to the names is like making a poem is very cultured: hairtail crab, hairtail toast, stir-fried hairtail fillet, iron hairtail hairtail, Taiwan tow hairtail, hairtail inlaid with cabbage heart, clam hairtail fish, eight-treasure hairtail fish, shrimp hairtail, etc., bottomless pit and knotting, get the fish here and there, and the fish is not fresh, all attached to the seasoning. The people of the island look at the flesh pain: stupid thief! Why are you stupid!
In fact, there is no need for so many flower heads to roast hairtail, and the most simple and delicious method is "salted hairtail" and "radish hairtail". Straight to speak, the hairtail itself is oily, fresh and competitive, self-reliance does not rely on others to rely on their own taste, but there is also a problem with hairtail is fishy. Hairtail diners are not only on the island, most of the country's diners are still afraid of fishy smell, in addition to relying on onions, ginger, wine and vinegar, are there any vegetables that can be mixed and matched with hairtail? That's salty and radish. Salted and radish are the traditional vegetables that are fresh and fishy, especially salted fish, which is the pickles pickled in the snow, and the "salted bamboo shoots", "salted edamame" and "salted oil tofu" mixed with it are all the world's freshest vegan dishes. But the biggest function of salty fish is to relieve the fishy gas, the reason why "salted yellow croaker" can go to the Great Hall of the People in Beijing for a state banquet, please ** is to use its umami and fishy ability, with fish to meet salty, that is fresh and fresh, fishy to fishy, born a pair of treasures, ginger, green onions, wine, garlic, sauce, soy sauce what is not needed, regardless of rich or poor, every household can not do without salted hairtail fish - that is the eternal civilian dish on the island.
Of course, the practice of civilian dishes is quite common: cut the fresh and shiny hairtail fish into sections, slaughter and crush the salty fish, and cut it into thin strips or shaved into shredded radish if it is a radish, so that the meat and vegetables each produce as much fresh as possible, so that their fresh juice can flow naturally and mix into a pot, add water, sprinkle with a little salt, and suddenly roll until the wind brings the fish off the bone, and the fresh air is integrated into the whole soup pot, then this soup, drink a bowl of clear soup is fresh, and the ribs and limbs are like a fresh breeze, so that your hair falls off. Once this ribbon fish encounters salty, it becomes so honest, fresh, fresh and tender, and has become the eternal "Tianxian match" on this island. Anyone who has lived on this island, whether poor or rich, old or children, it can be said that there is no one who has not eaten "salted hairtail" and "radish hairtail".
When you encounter the hairtail fish that can't be roasted and can't be eaten, you will be able to put the coarse salt in a gentle manner, the net rope mouth will go in and out of the chin, and the north window of the alley will be hung along the row, and the north wind will be rubbed up in the middle of the night, and the hanging will not be hard or soft, and the buckle will be buckled to Chenguang, and the old ginger pot will be steamed, and the oil will be wiped lightly and sprayed like a fragrant, which is the famous and delicious "salt-holding ribbon fish" The process is labor-saving.
If the weather is dry and let the north wind pick up a few days, the fish meat is more salty, chewy, chewy, chew and scratch the real beef jerky, beef jerky will never have such a natural and innocent and innocent leisurely umami taste, seafood seafood in the sea is fresh, I have not heard of the fresh mountains and rivers, "wind with fish" that is a kind of seafood flavor brewed in the bottom of the heart, mellow and long-lasting. It's just that the production of wind ribbon fish Chenguang is old-fashioned, and it can only be dried in the north window, not hung in the south window to dry.
If it is rainy for many days, and the hairtail fish cannot be eaten and sunned, then use the most simple method to "pickle the hairtail": cut it into a long section while it is fresh, and don't stuff it into a big bowl or a small tank like a thief, and then press a few heavy sea pebbles, pickled and eaten as a long-term dish. The salt heavy fish is not bad, the harder the stone pressed meat, the more the feet are in place, the oiliness is more sufficient, the meat is tougher, and it is an authentic fishing island pickled ribbon fish. On weekdays, the feet and mouths taste and the throat is lifted, and it is important to slow down the sleeves, and the jar is lifted, the safflower bowl is full of overflow, the fire is blowing, and the pot is steaming, just like the farmer's family twists the salty and cut the root radish, although the grade is high, the poor family's rice is supreme, salty and fragrant - stuffed rice.
If there is a hairtail that can not be eaten and done, and you want to change the pattern, then make a new strip to make a "bad hairtail", the technique is almost the same, the material is different, and the taste is all different: get a wine jar to wash and refresh, rub and dry, and rub the hairtail fish cut into small pieces and rub it with coarse salt, each layer of the pad is made of self-made pulp board wine brewing or the winery leaves and lees, and the wine jar is densely spread and thrown a handful of bay leaf pepper, and a jar mat falls down Don't be ten pounds, the mouth of the altar is sealed with yellow mud like wine, and the hoop is wrapped in a shell, so that the lees and the hairtail fish hug each other in this unventilated wine jar, Drunk for a year, drunk this year, the lees with the fish are drunk, the bones are drunk, and the fish is fragrant. Choose a good day to open the altar, that is really called "open the altar incense, go out and pour", the whole yard is authentic, floating up the intoxicating fragrance of the fish with the fish, this taste is unpleasant, the seven-star hotel can not eat. This altar is like my family's population, and it has been a long-term dish all year round in spring, summer, autumn and winter.
However, at that time, the fishing town was poor, and there were many fish like my family that could not afford to eat, and we still relied on another perennial dish unique to the islanders - bait. It is a perennial dish that the poor people of the island are cheap. Of course, because of the pronunciation relationship of "island language", people here read "with fishing bait" as "with fish yuan".
Every year, as soon as the fish flood arrives, the coastal fishing boats of the whole country are all the same, and the wind canopy drives thousands of miles all the way to the fishing town, and thousands of colorful big boats, small boats, large fishing boats, small fishing boats, net boats, drift net boats, foreign boats, small fishing boats, and small fishing boats, plus small boats that tow squid, shrimp, crab pots, and all kinds of sampan boats, gather in the safe harbor of one of the world's four major fishing grounds. Of course, there are at most boats from our fishing islands, followed by boats from our own province. Those flowery butt boats that raised their butts high and painted them in colorful colors are all boats from Fujian. The "fishing belt" here is basically the livelihood of the Fujian fish-cutting people, the Fujian people dig the pith, smart and willing to do, the small brain is developed, and the use of the cannibalistic nature of the hairtail fish, the anti-plot - with the hairtail fish fishing hairtail.
They will fresh hairtail head to tail to take the big body, each piece obliquely cut into about 20-30 centimeters long, less than half a centimeter thick hairtail fish segment, take advantage of the fresh shiny, one by one hanging on the long fishing hook, pull into a line, the boat let go, the hairtail fish yuan put a few nautical miles, shiny under the water, specifically to seduce those stout stragglers, those stragglers have developed limbs and simple minds, thieves are stupid! They all thought that the hairtail element on the hook was really a live hairtail, and they bit the gong and didn't let go. The hairtail fish at the back is more stupid, and there are often joints to bite one by one when pulled up, and a bait to collect multiple hairtail fish. Don't look at the "net belt" net head is a large net dozens of loads, the "fishing belt" is hooked for a few nautical miles, the fish that is caught is wide, fat and big, the fish is less than two pounds, the price is high, and the harvest is quite good. Ten catties and 100 catties of hairtail fish that are fished every day are cut, and they are fished while they are fresh, and the hairtail elements that are not used up and have not bitten the hook are all recovered, and the cabin pier is eaten in the sun and steamed, and it is also not hard or soft and chewy, but it has the taste of the sun that outsiders can never experience, which is the real gift of nature to the islanders. As long as the ship docks and immediately enters the market, it will rush into thousands of civilian homes at the price of cheap ground scraps, why not the common people who are happy to do it at a low price?
In addition to the hairtail, the fishman will not waste any usable part of the hairtail. That's what "fish maw" is, a very rare way to take fish. The teeth of the hairtail fish are sharp, the fangs are outward, and the scalpel-like is fast and shiny. I don't know what the blood on the veins of Chenguang's fingers dripped to the surface of the foot, and the people on the island all know that it is difficult to stop the blood hooked out by the fish tooth, and I don't know what mysterious "chemical **" is on the mouth of the fish tooth How can it not stop the bleeding? Of course, the underwater world is very different, and each animal has its own set of life-saving skills. You will take its life, and it will let you bleed. Fortunately, the small wound with the fish tooth is shallow, and the bag is mixed up. Xiao Chenguang has always wanted to grow up, pull out the roots and study the fish teeth, and apply them to his own teeth, in case he goes to the battlefield to bite the US imperialist reactionaries!
Therefore, the people on the island know that the whereabouts of the fish are slaughtered first without a knife, so that they can be safely disposed of, and then start from its chin meat, pull out the connected fish maw, fish roe, and fish fat from the belly, wash it with water, ginger, green onions, pepper, and soy sauce stains for an hour, hang it in a cool and ventilated place to dry, hang a bunch and hang it down, and air dry it into a shiny sauce red, a good handicraft made of thin clothes, although the object is small, the flavor is different, and it is collectively referred to as "fish maw". This kind of "fish maw" seems to be the invention of the Fujian fish people, there are too many seafood in the local fishing grounds, and the fish people here don't care about these tedious processing procedures at all, just the high-end appetizers created by the Fujian fish people themselves. Of course, it also brings blessings to the people of the town, tasting the rare and noble seafood with fish maw.
There is another kind of "ribbon fish" that has to be mentioned, that is, the small ribbon fish that was born not long ago, and it is rare to show a figure on the market. That Chenguang has a lot of ribbon fish, with the seasonal trend all flock to the East China Sea area to get married and have children, a child gives birth to thousands, can not finish the hairtail, the ribbon fish on the market is dry, it is twenty or thirty centimeters long, one or two centimeters wide of the small ribbon fish is sun-dried. The island calls it "shavings", very much like the carpenter master planer planing out the wooden flower roll, although the meat is thin and oily, but it is fresh, it is tough, it is fragrant, the men and women on the island have drunk the old wine and have eaten the soup and rice, when the beef jerky is the same snack food chewed, it is also a very scarce food, that is, it is cut into sections on weekdays, the flesh and bone are not divided, the seasoning is not put, you can watch the TV to chew and chew when the idle food is chewed, there is always a good fragrance in the teeth for half a day. Although the output of dried dried fish is not climatic and cannot be graded, it is also a seafood product that is unique in the world and has a unique flavor, and has never been seen in the mainland. Of course, now the ability to cut the fish is strong, the net is dragged in the sea, the kind of thing that is cut off from the grandchildren is not done, and the market is not very visible with fish silk, of course, it is more difficult to see the hairtail fish yuan, with fish belly, these hairtail derivatives with unique flavors.
It's really sad, it's helpless, these fish people have created a sea delicacy that has raised us for thousands of years, and slowly faded out of the history of this fishing island, and our children and grandchildren will never know that their ancestors had such a strange wisdom of fishing operations, and had such delicious hairtail yuan, hairtail and hairtail dried up. I hope that when my children turn the page one day, they may look forward to the way their ancestors lived and all the merits and stories of the fish.
Hairtail fish is also the most classic "intangible cultural heritage" passed down by Chenguang's mouth today.
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