Enema, also known as pig enema, is a must-have delicacy for the ancient Luohechuan people in northern Shaanxi Province to celebrate the New Year, and it is also a delicacy to entertain guests in the first month. Take a few pieces of elastic enema, cut into thin and uniform thickness, crystal round slices, put them on a plate and put them in a steamer to heat, pound half a bowl of garlic paste and water with salt and vinegar, fill half a bowl of oil and spicy seeds, after the cage is out of the cage, the hot enema slices can be poured with garlic and spicy juice to eat, or you can dip and eat, the fragrance is not greasy, the muscles are refreshing, the guests praise, the host family is happy. Back then, a small enema could even decorate the façade of a peasant family with limited conditions. And this kind of delicacy can only be tasted in a year after the New Year pig is killed before the Chinese New Year.
After Laba, it is also the year ahead, the northern Shaanxi Plateau, the New Year's flavor on both sides of the Luo River gradually became stronger, every household follows the traditional customs, and has entered the busiest days of the month of Layue, grinding and grinding, picking koji and making wine, raw bean sprouts, steaming steamed buns and fried cakes to make tofu, mounting walls and pasting windows, dusting and washing scale, the same busy and the same, every year. In these intensive and busy work of saying goodbye to the old and welcoming the new, killing the New Year's pig can be described as a highlight.
Early in the morning, boil two large pots of boiling water, the day before the good neighbors and a few helpers arrived, catch pigs, slaughter, hair removal, at noon, the pig's head fell to the ground, that is, disemboweled, the steaming large intestine, the small intestine was divided, that is, clean up the contents while it was hot, after it was poured clean, by the experienced old man or housewife, holding a slender and smooth arrow shaft, from the end tied with a fine hemp rope to stuff inside, began to turn the intestines one by one, turning the intestines is a fine work, the large intestine is easy to turn, the small intestine is slightly difficult, If you are not familiar with the technique, you will poke the small intestine and break it or splash dirt, so there is a slang saying: "I followed the official as a lady, and followed the pig to turn the intestines." It also shows that turning the intestines is a hard and difficult task. The large and small intestines are turned over and washed, and then soaked into a large basin, sprinkled with salt or alkaline noodles, etched the odor between the intestines, after soaking for a day or two, generally take advantage of the free time at night, grind the pure white buckwheat noodles during the day, and form a thick and uniform batter, take out the large and small intestines that have been cleaned several times, and start enema. The large intestine is easy to fill, the small intestine is time-consuming, the same end is tied with a string, from the other end of the intestine spoonful by spoon to the buckwheat batter poured in, the batter fills the whole intestine, the string ties the intestines, from the outside to the inside or from the inside to the outside, coiled in the steamer, for an hour, the taste of the large and small intestines mixed with the fragrance of the buckwheat noodles oozing out of the cage cover, a pot of enema steamed. After the enema is cooled, it is hung in the air or high on the wall of the barn kiln to prevent rats or cats, so that it can be eaten by guests before and after the festival.
In the past, the countryside of northern Shaanxi with deep mountains and ravines, lack of materials, life is hard, even if it is the New Year's Festival, most of the enjoyment is the coarse tea and light rice brewed by self-produced millet grain, you can kill a pig, you can live a good year, the industrious and intelligent Luohechuan people will pork other than the "head and hooves into the water", should try to cook different delicious, enema is one of them. The soba noodles are integrated into the pork intestines, which not only absorbs the intestinal fat, but also removes the coarseness of the buckwheat noodles, making the whole pork intestines a delicacy suitable for all ages.
Nowadays, not only around the New Year, but also for ordinary people's three meals a day or daily gatherings, the delicacy of enema is often brought to the table for people to enjoy. Over the years, as long as you like this delicacy, you can choose to buy a few pieces of your favorite sausage at any time, add green vegetable juice, diced carrots, diced meat, spices to the good buckwheat batter, and the various colored enemas that are more fragrant and flavorful have come out of the cage, and you can also directly buy a few pieces of finished enema, or cold food, or dipping sauce, or frying, each taking what you like, chewing slowly, the mouth is full of relish, the flavor is unique, and it makes people linger for a long time. It can be said that the traditional food of Luohechuan in the new era is colorful, and the small enema is still a delicacy of the four seasons for thousands of years.
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*Editor: Gao Tingting.