Chao news client Yang Xinyuan.
There are many ancient villages in the land of Zhejiang, and Dongziguan in Fuyang is one of the more unique ones. It's not that it's older, it's not that its ancient dwellings are better preserved than others. It is because this ancient village is connected with the name of Yu Dafu, a famous modern writer and revolutionary martyr. On November 1, 1932, Yu Dafu's eponymous ** "Dongziguan" was published in the magazine "Modern", and the small ancient village of Dongziguan thus entered the field of vision of the Chinese people. Since then, going to Fuyang to see Yu Dafu's ancient village of Dongziguan has become the wish of many people.
One On a sunny afternoon in early spring, the sky was blue, the sun was shining, the spring breeze was mild, and the fields were full of golden rape flowers. I had lunch with a few literary friends in the Xintongxiang ** canteen on Tongzhou Island, and then drove to the ferry port in Tongzhou. On the other side of the ferry is the famous Dongzi Pass.
The river is mighty, the current is turbulent, and there are several small boats driving on the river in the distance, which leads people to reverie. I remember that Yu Dafu described it like this in **: "Dongziguan is on the east bank of the Fuchun River, and the Qiantang River turns to Fuyang. ”
I estimated that Yu Dafu was 36 years old that year. After wandering outside for many years, due to lung disease, he followed his mother's persuasion and went to Dongziguan to ask the famous doctor Xu Zhengshi (Zi Shanyuan) to treat his illness.
In the thirties of the last century, having lung disease was equivalent to having cancer now, which was a terrible thing, and I had to go to the doctor in a hurry. And Yu Dafu's ** illness was carefully rejuvenated by the famous doctor Xu Shanyuan. After recovering, Yu Dafu published the ** "Dongzi Pass" with the same name as Dongziguan that year to express his unusual feelings for this ancient village. **The protagonist is simple, a wanderer and writer who has been away from home for many years, and he clearly has the shadow of Yu Dafu himself.
Originally, we could have taken a car to Dongziguan. Because Yu Dafu came to Dongziguan by boat, the hospitable host C must also let us take a boat to Dongziguan to experience Yu Dafu's mood back then. The ferry boat was on the other side of the pier, and when the boat driver saw our group, he turned around and drove the boat over. I saw that it was a small sailing boat, which could cross the river with more than 20 people at a time.
On board, we all stood at the bow of the boat and watched the scenery. The river shimmers in the sun; On the sandbar in the middle of the river, the new branches of the trees spit green, as if the sandbar is covered with a green veil; The distant mountains are like daisies, winding and undulating. The Fuchun landscape that catches your eye is like an ink painting scroll in early spring. We felt like we were in the middle of the painting, and we were in a very comfortable mood.
Although it is different from the small steamer that Yu Dafu sat on back then, the scenery on the river is still rare to the feeling of the past: "At this time, the left and right sides of the small steamer he sat on were surrounded by some blue sky, clear water, green mountains and mangroves on both sides, the warm sun and wind in the center of the river, and when he looked around, he felt like a bird that was used to flying in the mountains, and flew out of the narrow cage and flew back into the embrace of nature." "*Dongziguan" makes us feel the enduring charm of classic literary works once again. The sky is still blue and blue, the water is still clear water, the two sides are still green mountains and mangroves, the only thing that changes is the people who see the scenery today.
I think that Yu Dafu came to Dongziguan to seek medical advice, and Xu Shanyuan, a famous doctor in Dongziguan, gave him hope of regaining his health, so the scenery he saw on the ship was bright and his mood was relaxed; However, our group came to visit the ancient village of Dongziguan.
What kind of style will Dongziguan greet our group of visitors?
2. After going ashore, we walked along the road by the river.
On the left side of the road is the vast Fuchun River. The shore is planted with all kinds of flowers and trees, red flowers and green trees, which are very eye-catching; On the right side of the road is the house of Dongziguan Village. Row upon row, staggered.
Dongziguan is a peaceful and quiet village. At this moment, when we turn right from the riverside road and enter the village, we are greeted by quaint and quiet alleys, large and small ponds, and old houses on both sides of the alley. Among these old houses, the most famous is of course the Xu family compound.
The accompanying host, C, told us that the Xu family in Dongziguan was a famous family. It originated from Xuchang County, Yingchuan County (now Xuchang City, Henan Province). Like many large families, the Xu family also had ups and downs in the thousand-year history after the first ancestor filial son Xu Yu (954-1019 AD). From the middle of the Qing Dynasty to the beginning of the last century, it was another prosperous period for the Xu family.
In the tenth year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty (1804 AD), Xu Tingxun, a native of Dongziguan, was born. He gave birth to ten sons, and later generations called him "Xu Shifang". In the next 200 years, the Xu family has produced many talents, and the "Fuyang County Chronicle" called Xu Shifang "the prosperity of the family, which is second to none in the city". Xu Zhengshi, the son of Sanfang, is a famous doctor who cured Yu Dafu's lung disease. He has noble medical ethics and runs the "Xu Chunhe" pharmacy, half giving and half selling. He does not accept any medical fees for poor patients, and has a good reputation in the local area.
The Xu family compound was built after the "Hongyang Rebellion" and has a history of more than 130 years. I saw that the old house was close to a large pond, and the front house had a corridor and verandah. When you walk through the door, you will find a patio. An old woman was washing clothes in the patio, probably because there were more people visiting us over the years, and she didn't see us. Walking through the second gate, there is another patio. Although the light inside is a little dim, the façade of the house is open, and the carved beams and paintings show the dignity and prosperity of the year.
Yu Dafu was recuperating in this room and lived for more than a month. C pointed to a room on the right with a white house number nailed on a blue background. The door number reads: "Dongzi Village, Dongzi Township, 123-5." "I think that this famous Xu family compound, like many ancient buildings, has been divided, divided, and divided into small units one by one in one period after another, and many people have lived in it. This No. 5 may be one of them.
The door was open, and when you pushed the door in, the light was dim and empty. There is an escalator leading upstairs. A few of us cautiously walked upstairs, the floor creaking. Indoor lighting is also not good. It was also empty, except for a broken suitcase in the corner, with some worn-out clothes scattered inside. Q Jun, who was traveling with him, said, is Yu Dafu recuperating in such a house?For her, it is a bit inconceivable that a generation of writers is recuperating in such a place. Actually, I know that before the Xu family's compound was not dilapidated, it should have been a very comfortable place to live. This can be seen from Yu Dafu's description of "Dongzi Pass".
I think that the place where I am standing now may have been where Yu Dafu stood back thenThe window I'm leaning on now, Yu Dafu must have leaned on when he was resting. In the ** for more than a month, 36-year-old Yu Dafu has been thinking about what he thinks about the most in addition to seeing a doctor, taking medicine, reading, writing, eating, and sleeping here? What is his favorite place in the village to visit?
Time flies, time flies. If the carved beams and paintings of the Xu family's compound could speak, it would surely tell us many distant stories.
C told us that in recent years, with more and more people coming to Dongziguan for sightseeing, the Xu family compound is also ready to be renovated.
Dongzi Pass. Data map.
3. Go west to Yanling Beach, and the first pass to the east. This is people's description of the important geographical location of Dongziguan.
It is said that Dongzi Pass was originally called "East Finger Pass", Wu Yue marched, stayed here temporarily, went straight down the river, went east to Fuyang Mountain Mouth, is a natural pass risk, pedestrians come here, all look east to point to pass, so there is this name.
Dongziguan originally had many names, such as Qingcaopu, Dongzipu and so on. According to the Southern Song Dynasty's "Xianchun. Lin'an Zhi recorded: "Dongzipu, fifty-one miles southwest of the county, east into Zhejiang, formerly known as Qingcaopu. Sun Yao, the general of the Song Dynasty, was buried here, and the branches of the catalpa trees on the tomb were all eastward, so it was named. "Since the Southern Song Dynasty, Dongziguan has gradually increased, and it has continued to this day. To put it bluntly, Dongzi Pass is the pass on the water in ancient times, and it is a necessary place for people to pass through the Qiantang in Fuchun.
Back then, because of this big river and a wharf, this riverside town became more and more prosperous. Here, "the market is prosperous, and the merchants are everywhere.""In addition to the local aborigines, all kinds of people gather here. Passing boatmen and travelers, merchants traveling from north to south, literati and artists, and peddlers and pawns all had to go ashore here and rest. In our current words, a pass has brought up a whole industrial chain, inns and restaurants have opened one by one, and the whole town is noisy day and night, and people come and go, which is quite prosperous.
Of course, there are many people who come to Dongziguan because of the famous doctors here. Like Yu Dafu, who came here to see lung disease, he came specifically to find Xu Shanyuan, a famous doctor with ** lung disease; Here, there is also a famous doctor in the Department of Orthopedics and Traumatology, Mr. Zhang Shaofu, who is also famous. Patients and their families from all over the country who came from afar had to find a place to stay in the town to heal their injuries, recuperate, and eat, which also drove the hotel business and restaurant business in Dongziguan.
Now, in this early spring afternoon, when we walk in the quaint and quiet alleys of Dongziguan, the Xu family compound, Anya Hall, Changtang Hall, Jishan Hall, Xu Family Five Rooms, Xu Chun and the big pharmacy, the ancient houses and old buildings that still exist, although they are silent, but with their own simplicity and cangsang, they tell us about the prosperity and grandeur of the year.
4. In Dongziguan, in addition to seeing those ancient houses, I think we should also go to see the ancient Yueshi Temple, and stand quietly for a while under the 800-year-old camphor tree in front of the temple; Go to the old steamship wharf and think about the prosperity that this abandoned wharf once brought to Dongziguan; Go to the riverside to see the sister mountains that Yu Dafu wrote about in **, as well as the poignant legends about the sister mountains ......Walking around these places with the marks of the old time, inadvertently, ending the hurried walk to see the flowers, encountering an unexpected quiet leisure, it feels so beautiful.
On the one hand, we modern people are diligently pursuing material wealth and the unknown future, and on the other hand, we are reluctant to give up the simplicity of the past, and we will never forget the once comfortable and quiet home life. Everyone seems to be hurrying on their way, constantly feeling anxious, for fear that they will lose something if they are not careful; I always have to chase something, for fear that I will not be able to catch up with the pace of the times. And Dongziguan is a spiritual station that comforts impetuous modern people. If you feel tired and annoyed in the city, you might as well go to Dongziguan to live for a few days, precipitate your mood, and think about what you need? What can you get rid of? Then travel light. Here, you will get a kind of peace and calm that your heart craves. The hustle and bustle of the city seems to be far away from itself, the impetuous soul is comforted, and the tired body and mind are released. I think this is the unique charm that Dongziguan brings us!
As a result, the "Hangzhou School Residence" in Dongziguan was born. In a corner of Dongzi Pass, we saw the true reproduction of Jiangnan paintings by the famous painter Wu Guanzhong. Well-designed houses, one by one new houses, black tiles and white walls, simple and beautiful, constitute a new village. Dongziguan's "Chayanju" opened, which is the first country house in Dongziguan to open to the public. The host, Zhu Yongjie, is a freelancer who studied management in college.
At this moment, we walked into the "Tea Speech House", Zhu Yongjie was not there, and his father Zhu Guoping received us. There are all kinds of facilities in it, and it is similar to a star-rated hotel. He told us that since the opening, weekends have been mostly full, and demand has outstripped supply during the Chinese New Year. Walking into such a house, eating the freshly ground tofu of soybeans grown by yourself, the pollution-free vegetables freshly picked, and the freshly caught river freshness in the Fuchun River, this feeling and taste can be summed up in only one good word.
The philosopher Thoreau said, "What man needs is a pure nature, a nature that lives in harmony with man." "I think, isn't the road of ecological development taken by Dongziguan exactly what we can learn and emulate?!
About author:Yang Xinyuan, a member of the Chinese Writers Association, is a senior journalist in Zhejiang.
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