As the saying goes, "the people take food as the sky", emphasizing the importance of food. The other says "clothing, food, housing and transportation", which puts clothing before food, which shows the important position of clothing in people's lives. Han culture has been inherited for thousands of years, and Hanfu has evolved with it. Today, we will briefly introduce the development process of Hanfu.
The ancients called the upper garment "Yi" and the lower garment "Shang" (pronounced changer), and it should be noted that the ancient Chinese clothes were not like modern trousers, but more similar to skirts, both men and women.
In martial arts**, it is often mentioned that "Ren Du Ermai", what is the specific position of this word in the human body?In short, draw a line from the chin to the navel, which is the position of the "Ren pulse";Instead, draw a line along the midline of the spine on the back, which is the position of the "Du Mai". Together, these two are the anterior-posterior median line of the human body. The ancients applied such a term to clothing design, calling the front middle line of clothes "衽" (pronounced the same person), and the back middle line as "裻" (pronounced the same as the governor). Ancient Hanfu was characterized by a cross-collar, that is, the left and right sides of the clothes overlapped on the chest, and the collar was shaped like a lowercase letter. Because of the overlap, there is a difference between left and right directions. If the collar is sloping down to the right, it is called a "right cheek";Otherwise, it is "left".
According to the etiquette since the Zhou Dynasty, the dress must be on the right side. Although some other ethnic groups imitated the costumes of the Central Plains, they did not know enough about Han culture, so they may have adopted left-sided clothing. In addition, in order to embody the concept of "yin and yang separation" and "people and ghosts have different paths", the shroud worn by the deceased in ancient times was usually left. Therefore, if a living person of the Han nationality wears a left guard, it is very taboo. Deeply influenced by Chinese culture, the "kimono" is the evolution of Hanfu, and to this day, the Japanese still insist on the right side of the kimono, and the left side is still a symbol of bad luck and bad luck.
When the left half of the garment covers the right half, the edge of the chest is called the "placket", and the edge near the waist on the right side is called the "skirt". In the early stage of the development of Hanfu, the skirt was not cut, showing the angular shape of the fabric itself, which was fixed around the back of the body, and this style was called "curved skirt". Later, with the progress of clothing design, people felt that the curved skirt was a little redundant, and it was better to cut it so that the edges were straight up and down, which was both beautiful and economical in fabric, such a style was called "straight skirting", which became more common in the later period.
In addition, the part of the Hanfu sleeve close to the body, that is, the position of the upper arm is called "袂", the part of the lower arm is called "sleeve", and the cuff is called "袪" (note that it is the part next to the clothes, not the side of the show).
After talking about the top, let's talk about the bottom, that is, the dress. The structure of the dress is relatively simple, initially consisting of just two pieces of cloth. In the early days of Hanfu, during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the front and back of the dress were separated, and there were gaps on the left and right sides, somewhat similar to the lower part of the modern cheongsam. In the Han Dynasty, for the sake of beauty and privacy, the front and back pieces of cloth were sewn together from the side to form a tube, similar to the skirt worn by modern women. However, in ancient times, this kind of clothing was the mainstream clothing for both men and women. But just as modern women wear skirts that are inconvenient for running and riding, they are not suitable for soldiers to ride horses or peasants to work. As a result, a hakama that was divided in half from the middle was refined, and although it had the same pronunciation as the modern "trousers", the style was different. The hakama is just two trouser legs, which wrap around the legs and are tied around the waist with straps, and the two trouser legs are not connected to each other, that is, there is no crotch. Another type of undergarment with a crotch is called a "loin", which is relatively short.
Since the hakama is usually worn in the inner layer, there are not too high requirements for aesthetics, and ordinary families usually use coarse cloth to make it. But for wealthy families, silk is not only used for clothes such as silk and grosgrain, but also in such invisible places. Therefore, people use the term "纨绔" to describe wealthy families, where "纨" refers to fine silk and "绔" is a hakama with a silk texture.
The combination of Hanfu upper and lower clothes can be roughly divided into two types, in the early days, the top and bottom were separated, and this design process is relatively simple. Usually, the color of the shirt is relatively simple and solemn, while the dress adopts a variety of colors, symbolizing the meaning of "the sky is clear and the earth is turbid". With the advancement of the production process, people felt that it was more convenient to sew the jacket and the garment together directly to form a complete structure, and such hanfu was called "deep clothes". Because of its convenient way of wearing, deep clothes have become a daily favorite clothing for men, women, children, kings and grandchildren. However, in formal occasions, such as rituals, people still use a more ceremonial combination of tops and bottoms.
There are many differences in the details of the deep coats of different periods. Among them, Zhu Xi of the Song Dynasty designed a style called "Zhuzi Shenyi" based on his understanding of ancient rituals, which is highly representative and has had a profound impact on the development of clothing in other Asian countries around China, such as Korea and Japan.
The article "The Gorgeous Transformation from "Right Clothes" to "Deep Clothes" profoundly outlines the evolution of Hanfu, and shows the uniqueness of Han culture in terms of clothing through a detailed interpretation of ancient costumes.
First of all, the article elaborates on the cultural symbols of "right guard" and "left side", revealing the importance of clothing in rituals and cultural inheritance. The analysis of the position of "Right Guard" in the ritual law of the Zhou Dynasty and the symbolic meaning of "Left Guard" between foreigners and the deceased gave me a deeper understanding of the cultural background of Han costumes. At the same time, the description of the Japanese "kimono" inheriting the "right-wing" tradition gave me a clearer understanding of the blending of East Asian cultures.
Secondly, through the analysis of the structure of Hanfu upper and lower clothes, the article shows the ingenuity of the evolution of Hanfu. From the initial "curved skirt" to the later "straight skirt", as well as the introduction of details such as sleeves, coats, and cuffs, I have a more comprehensive understanding of the design evolution of Hanfu. In particular, the description of the clothes, from the earliest split style to the later "hakama" and "skirt", highlights the practicality and adaptability of Hanfu.
The article also mentions the development of the "deep coat" period, and the design of this combination of tops and clothes sewn into one, as well as the use of tops and bottoms in formal occasions, gave me a clearer understanding of the application of Hanfu in different social occasions. The introduction of the "Zhuzi Deep Clothes" style designed by Zhu Xi in the Song Dynasty also showed me the profound influence of culture in clothing design.
Finally, while introducing Hanfu, the article presented me with a rich picture scroll through the rich historical background and cultural connotation. The in-depth analysis of the culture, etiquette and aesthetic concepts behind Hanfu has given me a deeper understanding of the breadth and profundity of traditional Chinese culture.
Overall, this article is detailed and hierarchical, and introduces the development and evolution of Hanfu in simple terms. Through the detailed interpretation of the costumes, I have a deeper understanding of the unique beauty of traditional Chinese costumes. This article not only provided me with a new understanding of the history of Hanfu, but also sparked a deeper interest in traditional Chinese culture.
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