The jacket is simply "crazy"!
According to Jingdong data, the turnover of jackets this year increased by 165% year-on-year, and from October 20 to 25 alone, the turnover increased by 200% year-on-year.
If you don't believe me, you might as well take a walk on the streets of Beijing now, and within 100 meters, you will see people wearing various brands of Archaeopteryx, camels, wolf claws and other brands, walking towards you.
Nowadays, the jacket is not only the "patent" of outdoor people, but also the favorite of countless domestic workers.
The "Hermes" in the jacket - Archaeopteryx has become one of the "three treasures" of middle-aged men with an average price of 4,000 yuan and a maximum of 20,000 yuan, and the other two are Moutai and fishing.
It can be seen that the status of Archaeopteryx in the hearts of the middle class is very high, if you have an Archaeopteryx, it is equivalent to owning a row.
However, how did the once disgusted and ugly jacket become the top class today?It looks ordinary, but what does it rely on to harvest the domestic middle class?
Although jackets are now a hot item on the street, a few years ago, most of the people who would choose jackets were outdoor sportsmen.
Since the stronger the wind in the outdoors, the more the body temperature will drop, and outdoor athletes who want to cope with harsh environments such as storms and snowstorms must wear a piece of clothing with good wind protection to keep warm.
The quality of the windproof effect is closely related to the air permeability, and the better the windproof effect, the lower the air permeability.
The relevant departments of our country have divided them into three grades according to the air permeability and moisture permeability of clothing fabrics
Fabrics that have reached the first level, generally suitable for ordinary jackets and other clothing;If it reaches the second level, it is generally suitable for clothes such as windbreakers;It is mainly suitable for waterproof raincoats, jackets, etc.
Generally speaking, the fabric used in the jacket must reach the second or first, and its windproof effect is naturally incomparable with other fabrics.
More importantly, the waterproof performance of the jacket is also very good, so that even in the face of rain or snow, it can also ensure the dryness of the human body, so as to avoid rapid hypothermia.
Therefore, outdoor people choose jackets, to a large extent, for practical considerations, as for whether it is beautiful or not, it is not so important in comparison.
As netizens commented:"The jacket is a single item that can't be both practical and fashionable. ”
But in recent years, in the developed countries of the West, there has been a rise of a called"Mountain wear".The gorpcore trend refers to the addition of outdoor elements to everyday attire.
For example, the financial elite in San Francisco, USA, has abandoned the traditional suit and changed to the style of wearing an outdoor thermal vest over a shirt, in order to show their "healthy" side through the concept of outdoors.
At the closing ceremony of the 2020 LV Autumn and Winter **, this trend has been greatly promoted, and then began to sweep the world.
At that time, when Virgil Abloh, the owner of the well-known fashion brand Off-white, took the stage to thank him, he was not wearing his own brand of clothes, but a blue Archaeopteryx jacket.
Later, off-white cooperated with Archaeopteryx to launch a joint brand, which directly allowed Arc'teryx to catch the fashion express train and become a new generation of fashion brand in the eyes of the public.
And the global fashion industry, whether it is luxury brands or fast fashion brands, has seized on this wave and rushed to launch clothing designs with a sporty style.
Soon after, this wind also blew to our country, especially the rich and idle middle-class men, who are generally full of yearning for the outdoors, and buying items with outdoor elements has become another social currency.
In addition, the practicality and functionality of the jacket also make many migrant workers feel very satisfied, not only can they wear it to the wild, but also can protect against wind and rain in the city, and it has a wide range of applications.
With a jacket, you won't be afraid of the wind when you ride an electric car in winterWhen it rains in the city, you can also do without an umbrella or raincoat;When you wake up in the morning, you don't have to spend time dressing up, just wear a pair of jeans or sweatpants underneath to go out ......
Counting down, there are many advantages of the jacket, however, its "disadvantages" are becoming more and more obvious - that is, the ** that is rising, which makes many people daunted.
Netizens also wondered, you said that the average price of 4000 Archaeopteryx is forgotten, but how can even Decathlon be sold for 799 yuan?
Why is the jacket so expensive, in fact, it has a great relationship with its cost.
Generally speaking, jackets are divided into two types: hard shell and soft shell.
The hard shell can cope with extreme environments, but also can resist friction, suitable for all kinds of outdoor activities, but due to the hard material, the comfort of the hard shell is not high, there will be a stiff feeling;
The soft shell will be relatively softer and more breathable, and will not sweat as easily as the hard shell, although its waterproof function will be reduced, but it is enough for people living in the city.
And their ** and its function is also corresponding, soft shell because of low technical content, ** is generally cheaper than hard shell, but the fabric of the hard shell jacket is very particular.
Most of the hard shells are made of a GTX (Gore-TEX) material from Gore in the United States, which can not only be used to make clothes, but also involve aerospace, military, medicine, etc., known as the "cloth of the century".
There are a total of three layers of Centurycloth, of which the middle layer of gore-tex film is distributed with many pores, according to the official website of Arc'teryx, there are 9 billion pores per square inch of the film, these pores can be both waterproof and moisture-wicked, and the technical content is very high.
Therefore, the production cost of GTX material is very expensive, which also leads to the high level of jackets using this fabric, which cost thousands of dollars at every turn.
Of course, not every jacket on the market today is so expensive.
Like in the first half of this year, the highest-selling jackets in the Douyin live broadcast room are generally located in the two ranges of 300-500 yuan and 100-300 yuan, of which 300-500 yuan accounts for one-third of the market.
However, most of these jackets are not "real" jackets, but at best jackets or windbreakers.
For young people who just want to rub off on the heat, it is enough to buy a fake jacket to wear.
But for the middle class, if you want to buy a jacket, you definitely have to buy a top match, then you have to mention the Archaeopteryx known as "Hermes".
Arc'teryx was originally an outdoor clothing brand from Canada.
In March 2019, the brand's parent company, Amalfen Sports, was acquired by Anta Group for RMB37.1 billion** to fill Anta's gap in the mid-to-high-end sportswear market.
In the first three years, Amalfen did not bring much profit to Anta, but continued to lose nearly 2.4 billion, but this was expected by Ding Shizhong, chairman of the board of directors.
He calmed down, carefully laid out, and then waited for the opportunity for outdoor sports to break out in our country.
Sure enough, as the heat wave of the outdoor concept spread from Europe and the United States to our country, many people gradually became avid fans of Arc'teryx.
Soon, due to the hosting of the Winter Olympics in Beijing, the brand has further expanded out of the circle, including many retired aunts and uncles.
In 2022, Amalfen finally achieved a turnaround and brought 2800 million yuan in profits.
The overnight popularity of Arc'teryx also made its stores flooded, and there were young and middle-aged people rushing to buy everywhere.
A post-95 generation named Ah Cheng said that during the National Day holiday, she wanted to visit the Arc'teryx store in Wangfujing, Beijing, but was told to wait for half an hour, and in front of her, there were already twenty or thirty people in line.
Even on a typical weekend, the store has a very high footfall, with hundreds of people in an hour.
What is surprising is that Archaeopteryx's stores are not only blooming everywhere in first-tier cities, but also in second- and third-tier cities, such as Shijiazhuang, Yantai, Tangshan, Zibo, etc., which also facilitates Archaeopteryx to further harvest the "local tyrants" in the county.
Xiaoxue from Anshan, Liaoning Province, said that Anshan's salary is only about 6,000, but many people are willing to buy an average price of 4,000 Archaeopteryx, and even her parents who are born in the 60s have to rush to buy it, almost every person has an Archaeopteryx.
"Dressed in Archaeopteryx and carrying LV on his back. ”——This has become one of the classic outfits of today's domestic middle class!
Recently, there has been a popular saying on Tiger Pounce:"Wear an Archaeopteryx, a peaked cap, a skewer in your hand, and a tea set in the office. ”
A hard-shell jacket like Archaeopteryx certainly has its expensive reason, but for most people, going to work is not a trap in the snow, and wearing a top-matching jacket to work is a bit overkill
If you think so, you're underestimating the status symbolism and emotional value that this Archaeopteryx brings.
In recent years, due to the rapid development of China's outdoor sports industry, camping, rafting, skiing, hiking, and catching the sea have become the most popular outdoor activities.
And on social platforms such as Xiaohongshu and Douyin, we can also see it from time to time"Exquisite camping", "wild luxury camping".and other labels and content, which further deepens the connection between luxury living and outdoor activities.
People are also gradually realizing that outdoor activities are very "money-burning" projects, and people who can afford to play outdoor sports must not only have money, but also have leisure.
It's just that under the trend of "health" in today's packaging, participating in outdoor activities has become a novel and low-key way for middle-class groups to show off their wealth.
After all, there is a good saying:"Luxury is having time to really do life outside of work. ”
When people want to highlight the difference between themselves and ordinary people and obtain superior social values, don't they have to have an Archaeopteryx?
Thus, those who have Archaeopteryx also have the qualifications to stand at the top of the chain of contempt.
They will call themselves "birdmen" and jokingly say, "I have birds, and I don't want to talk to people who don't have birds." ”
When taking pictures, you should deliberately stand in the rain without an umbrella, showing the water droplets on the jacket, as well as the delicate bird fossil trademark.
Since the big V half-Buddha immortal revealed, on second-hand transactions such as Xianyu, second-hand clothes are generally difficult to successfully trade, but the clothes of Archaeopteryx, whether it is a jacket or a down jacket, can be sold in a short time almost as soon as they are put on the shelves.
One of the few that could not be sold was a dress and a women's long-sleeved shirt, simply because the bird fossil logo on the clothes was not obvious enough.
As a result, most Arc'teryx buyers understand that despite the premium price of the brand's clothes, they are willing to spend a lot of money in pursuit of additional social and emotional value.
In the most demanding field of outdoor sports, buy the most compelling top equipment, and people with birds will also be stained;
At the same time, if you want to compare with other luxury brands, the Archaeopteryx that can be bought for a few thousand is relatively the cheapest and most cost-effective.
The Archaeopteryx jacket is not only practical and durable, but also "big x for a small fee". ——These reasons seem to have foreshadowed its fate.
And behind the fact that the jacket became the top overnight, it also reflects the anxiety of many people, especially the middle class, and it can even be said to be a kind of fear.
Due to the continued economic downturn, the middle class, which has lost a lot of money, urgently needs to put some labels on itself in order to show its unique social attributes, and it seems that only by doing so can it ensure that its class will not decline again.
The so-called "middle-class three-piece suit" also greatly calmed their anxiety and worry, as if as long as these sets were fully equipped, they would have the confidence to speak.
In fact, among the many people who follow the trend to buy jackets, they may not like outdoor sports at all, and they don't know much about how expensive Archaeopteryx is, but as long as they buy it, they can show that they are a person with taste and spending power.
Buying Arc'teryx is actually the same as buying luxury brands such as LV and Gucci, which is a success in a secular sense.
A netizen once said that when he was wearing a 4,000-yuan Archaeopteryx in Beijing, he was sweating and felt like he had bought a "delicate poncho".
However, for the sake of this small trademark on the "poncho", there will still be many people who willingly pay for it.
Because even if you can't go outdoor skiing, you have to make others feel that you can afford to ski.
Fashion trends are always menacing, but fleeting.
Before Arc'teryx really exploded, there were also outdoor brands such as North Face and Canada Goose, which were just as hot at that time.
However, this year, many people have "sobered up" again, and would rather buy a down jacket for a few hundred yuan than spend thousands of yuan on the so-called high-end down jacket.
Nowadays, seeing the continuous development of Archaeopteryx, it has become a brand that more and more people can't climb.
With premiums beyond practicality getting higher and higher, how far can Archaeopteryx continue to go on the road to prosperity?
I believe that in the near future, this answer will be revealed.
As trends change, or when people's wallets are emptied, there will always be a large number of people who choose to shift their ground and pursue other new items instead.
And at that time, the people who continue to be willing to buy Archaeopteryx should be more likely to be groups with outdoor needs.
After all, for outdoor enthusiasts who really have money and leisure, there is always a chance to use this Archaeopteryx to protect from the wind and snow.
Kunpeng Project