Fushun is a city that thrived because of coal, coal, oil, and electric rail, which brought it early prosperity. Even after the energy is exhausted, it still has the heaviness and roughness that belongs to the northern industrial cities. It is a microcosm of countless old towns in the Northeast in modern times, and through the dust, you can touch the first hot heartbeat.
The winter in Fushun drips into ice, and as soon as November begins, the radiator begins to heat up. "Coal to gas" has been implemented for a long time, and people still miss the past, as if smelling the smell of firewood in the air, seeing the white mist coming out of the chimney, and touching the white snow on the ground. The modified tricycles running on the street were tightly wrapped, with stoves on them, a chimney sticking out of the carriage, and the whole city smelled of coal.
Jiang Beisheng. It was once known as the "coal capital" and was Lei Feng's second hometown. It is the first batch of municipalities directly under the central government in China, the first to pass rail transit, the first batch to achieve "upstairs and downstairs, electric lights" Fushun because of coal, because of coal and decline, experienced from glory to loneliness, and always retains the bones of industry.
Jiang Beisheng. It is an unyielding city. If you come to Fushun to see, there are people who live as usual, people who are comfortable and contented, there is the down-to-earth jubilation of daily fireworks, eating haggis soup in winter, and eating spicy mix in summer. On the outskirts of the mottled and old houses, those ancient industrial relics are still reverberating.
Cerew. The gaze of the Asian eye. Sky Mine.
Every time I fly over Fushun on a plane, my eyes are always attracted by a big crater. It was deep and dark, with ravines and ravines. From the satellite image, it looks like an oyster. This is the Fushun West open-pit mine, which is 6 years long6 km, 2 km wide from north to south2 kilometers, the deepest depth was dug to more than 450 meters, becoming the largest open-pit pit in Asia and the lowest point of China's mainland - lower than the Turpan Basin.
This is a legendary pit that has a story that spans and desolates from 1901 to 2019. In the more than 70 years since the founding of the People's Republic of China, the West Open-pit Coal Mine has produced 2700 million tons, oil shale bonanza 5100 million tons is an out-and-out "merit pit". Standing on the Donggang Observation Deck and looking down, the industrial soul lurking in the body is awakened, and there is a fire in the heart, burning like coal.
Jiang Beisheng. Continued high-intensity mining, which eventually led to energy depletion, led to the closure of the West Open Pit in 2019 and a shift to ecological restoration, as well as a transition to tourism. Only when you come here can you really feel what kind of heavy history Fushun once carried in obscurity. Now that the pit is backfilled, the pit walls are dotted with greenery, but you can still feel the dust and clouds in the sky.
Jiang Beisheng. From the Donggang Observation Deck to the west of the mine, there is a coal mine museum. The three-storey indoor space and outdoor area show the development of the coal industry in Fushun and the whole of China. On the large exhibition square of the open-pit mine outside the museum, there are excavators, electric locomotives, bulldozers, 108-ton mining vehicles, steam locomotives and other large-scale equipment, recording the dedication and dedication of the older generation of Northeast people to support the construction of the country.
Fushun. It should not be abandoned and sunk. Electric Railway.
Jiang Beisheng. In order to keep supplies moving, wherever there is industry, there will be railways. Fushun Electric Railway, the originator of China's electric railway, was built in October 1904. In the memory of Fushun people, the electric railway is the most convenient and fast means of transportation connecting the urban area and the mining area. In the most glorious 80s, more than 180 trains were operated every day, and the annual passenger traffic reached 56 million. On June 30, 2009, Fushun's passenger train system was officially suspended, after a hundred years of vicissitudes.
The main filming location of the movie "Fireworks in the Day" is in Harbin, but the people of Fushun still recognize their hometown at a glance when they see the footage of those trams. Liao Fan's scene at the train station was filmed at the station of the Fushun Mining Bureau. As can be seen from the movie, the electric train at that time did not run on its own, but was pulled by a "little crocodile" electric locomotive, and the number of the train can be seen as 806.
Swipe left and right to view.
Atongmu. Today, the 806 Zhenxing is kept in the large warehouse, while the 808 Pioneer, 809 Harmony, and 810 Endeavour can be seen in the West Open Pit. If you want to explore more old cars, you can try your luck at the electric railway garage station on Xingping Road. Most of the trains are rusty, and some have only one car left. Among the old trams, the oldest Mitsubishi is 90 years old, and the youngest Shaofeng is also 50 years old.
Jiang Beisheng. For many train enthusiasts, Fushun should have a tram museum, but now it seems to be a luxury. If you are interested in coming to Fushun, you can walk along the electric railway line, and you may see a lot of old car bodies, tracks, bridges and nameplates, many of which are over 100 years old. They carry the glorious years of Fushun, are a symbol of the prosperity of the old industrial base in Northeast China, and are also living fossils of Fushun's history.
Petroleum. A memory to keep. Plant 1.
Atongmu. Fushun's No. 1 Petroleum Plant once produced the first barrel of aviation kerosene and the first barrel of gasoline in New China, and was known as the hometown of China's oil refining industry. In 1980, Fushun's refining capacity reached 8.7 million tons a year, ranking first in the country and becoming the pillar of China's refining industry. In 2011, the West Open-pit Mine in particular formed a subsidence area due to perennial mining, and the No. 1 oil plant near it had to stop production.
Atongmu. Today, the yard is overgrown with weeds and rust, and the roaring oil refinery tower of yesteryear has become a silent steel giant. Half of the buildings are gone, leaving only a few refinery towers standing alone. Fushun Petrochemical Company said that it would retain the first-class plant, and now when you come to the periphery of the plant, you can see the shocking industrial relics.
Atongmu. The pride in the hearts of Fushun people will not disappear with the collapse of the building. Those giant-like existences store all the glory days.
Tips: Fushun day trip.
Lei Feng Memorial Hall.
Fushun is Lei Feng's second hometown and the birthplace of Lei Feng's spirit. On August 15, 1965, Lei Feng Memorial Hall was completed in Wanghua District, Fushun City. There are more than 400 pieces of relics, ** and other cultural relics in the museum, which faithfully reproduce his short and glorious life. Now Lei Feng has been gone for 61 years, but we have never forgotten him. An ordinary warrior has long become the common memory of several generations, the behavioral coordinates of several generations, no matter how the times change, people's pursuit of truth, goodness and beauty will never go out of style.
The city of Hetuala.
The ancient city of Hetuala is the post-Jin capital of Nurhachi, the most well-preserved Jurchen mountain city so far, and it is also the last mountain city-style capital in Chinese history, with a history of more than 400 years. The main scenic spots are the Great Yamen of the Khan Palace, the White Flag Yamen, the Khan King Well, the East and West Lotus Bubbles, the Xianyou Palace, the Dizang Temple, the Manchu Historical and Cultural Corridor, the Manchu Old Street, etc.
Entering the city of Hetuala, the atmosphere of the countryside is blowing in your face. The country houses in the traditional Manchu residential form are mostly grass-roofed earthen walls, and the roof is thatched up to a foot thick. Most of the houses are open, quite like pockets, commonly known as pocket rooms. This form of kang is composed of three sides of the kang connected to the south, west and north, the south and north kang are more than five feet long, and the width is equal to the width of the living room, because the "pocket room" is two or three rooms connected, and the north and south "big kang" in the interior are also called "even two kang" or "even three kang" respectively.
The Palace of the Han Kings is the heart of the city of Hetuala. On the first day of the first month of the first month of 1616 AD, Nurhachi established the Dajin State here, the year name is the Mandate of Heaven, and the honorific title is "raising the wise Khan of the nations", so the academic community also calls this "Khan King Dayamen" as "the honorable platform".
Ancestral Mausoleum of the Qing Emperor. The town of Yongling in Xinbin, Fushun is the seat of the ancestral tombs of the Qing Dynasty. At the southern foot of Qiyun Mountain in the northwest of Yongling Town, you can see a large-scale royal mausoleum building, which is the ancestral tomb of the Qing Dynasty - Qing Yongling. Qing Yongling is the smallest of the three tombs in Shengjing (Qing Yongling, Qing Fuling, Qing Zhaoling), but it is the first of the three tombs in Shengjing. It was built in 1598 A.D., and buried Nurhachi's sixth ancestor Meng's brother Timur, great-grandfather Fuman, grandfather Jue Chang'an, father Takshi and uncle Lidun, uncle Tacha Zhanggu and their Fujin. Emperors such as Kangxi, Qianlong, Jiaqing, and Daoguang have come here nine times to worship their ancestors. In 2004, the Qing Yongling Tomb was listed as a World Cultural Heritage Site.
*: Condé Nast Traveler cntr**eler
Editor: Li Yu.
Reviewer: Yang Xuejuan.
Reviewer: Liu Ping.