Copywriting: Two shaking clouds.
Edit: Two shaking clouds.
I don't know when it started, as long as you ask why down jackets are so expensive this year, you will definitely get a standard answer: handsome guy, you don't know yet, down has risen sharply this year. 3 years ago, when I went to someone's closet to buy a down jacket, the little sister of the shopping guide told me so, the original words, many ** over the years also said so, anyway, it's the fault of the goose.
Is that really the case?
According to the data of the industry's ** down gold network, the highest quality, that is, the white goose down with a down content of 95%, was 550 yuan kg in 2017. According to the usual practice, this year's white goose down has risen again, and 95% of the white goose down ** has risen to 8959 yuan kg. On the surface, it has risen by 63% in 6 years, and it makes sense for people to increase their prices.
But the problem is that the filling amount of a long down jacket is only 190g on average, like the mid-to-high-end model of 3000 yuan of a big brand, which can be more than 200g, even if it has 250g, then in the past 6 years, how much has the cost of a long down jacket risen?Let's do the math.
895.9-550）✖0.25=86.475 yuan.
In other words, it has risen by 86 yuan in 6 years. Mind you, I'm all doing it to the highest standards.
But 6 years have passed, how much has the down jacket risen?According to the data of Dongfeng**, in just four years from 2018 to 2021, the average price of Bosideng's down jacket tags has increased by 63%-80%, and according to the data of Bosideng's performance briefing, the average price of its tags has risen from 1,000 yuan in 2017 to 1,800 yuan in 2021.
Bosideng is not an exception, everyone is raising prices, I think everyone can know by feeling how fierce the down jacket has risen over the years, and the long style has reached the level of 2,000 yuan.
If it's not down, then what are the factors that have made down jackets rise to this level today?This has to mention the 20-year-long tragic involution of the down jacket industry.
Down jackets entered China in the 70s of the last century. However, at that time, the craftsmanship was not good, even if it was piercing, it was ugly and stupid to wear, and it looked like a big lieba, so at that time people called it bread clothes, and it was not well received.
Japanese down jacket in the last century.
However, after the reform and opening up, some manufacturers represented by Bosideng began to do OEM for foreign manufacturers, so the process of domestic down jackets continued to improve, so after the 90s, down jackets made a comeback and were sought after by northern partners.
For example, increasing the velvet content from 60% to 90%, introducing design elements, and using new fabrics, Bosideng formed a sharp contrast with those "stupid black and coarse" friends, so it became popular all of a sudden, and the "Bosideng" trademark, which was registered in 1994, became the first in the country in 1995, and has never lost until today.
Due to Bosideng's game-breaking effect, after 1995, the down jacket market entered the fast lane, or the savage growth period.
At this time, many people discovered this huge blue ocean, because the penetration rate of down jackets in Japan was as high as 70% at that time, and more than 35% in Europe and the United States. And even in 2000, the penetration rate of down jackets in China was only about 2% (China Textile News), we had a small 1.3 billion people at that time, this was definitely an opportunity, so many people all of a sudden rushed in, resulting in a rapid increase in production.
In 2000, the national domestic output of down jackets was only 24 million, and in 2001, it reached 50 million, forcing the entire market to a desperate situation.
In order to sell goods, manufacturers can only play with marketing, and the marketing idea at that time was very simple, that is, to hold high and smash advertising. So in 2001, the number of down jacket brands advertised on CCTV increased rapidly from 6 to nearly 20, and the marketing war started first.
But 2001 was a rare warm winter, the country only sold less than 20 million pieces of down jackets, the inventory pressure of various manufacturers is huge, so in the summer of 2002, the tragic war began.
Although the China Down Industry Association and other competent authorities have long anticipated it, and have repeatedly given enterprises preventive vaccinations and asked them to comply with the "** Law", but there is no fart. In the summer of that year, brands such as Bosideng and Xuechi took advantage of the opportunity of off-season sales to desperately discount and ship goods in major shopping malls, selling clothes with an original price of several hundred yuan for dozens of yuan, and Bosideng's cheapest down vest was only sold for 26 yuan, and the most expensive was only 300.
2002 Down Jacket ** War.
2002 Down Jacket ** War.
2002 is not an exception, in the following years, the major down jacket companies are like this, advertising bombardment with the first war, many times can only lose money. At that time, there were more than 3,000 down jacket companies in the country, and there were 50 of them alone.
Down jackets once again repeated the mistakes of household appliances, thermal underwear and other products, and fell into the quagmire of the first war. This seems to be the fate of the vast majority of Chinese companies, entering the blue ocean, rolling into the red ocean, then looking for the blue ocean, and then rolling into the red ocean, surviving in endless overcapacity.
This kind of fierce competition is not conducive to the development of the entire industry, because of meager profits, many companies can only steal other people's editions, copy other people's money, resulting in homogenization, low quality is very serious, which in turn exacerbates the industry involution, forming a vicious circle, so every summer, major enterprises begin to destock, which has been called a routine, and the entire industry is also struggling forward in the involution.
This is not the worst thing, what is even more terrible is that in order to survive, many manufacturers have begun to cheat. There are so many routines to reduce the down content to the bottom line of the national standard - below 50%, and use duck down to sell it as goose down. The most hateful addition of flying silk, that is, crushing all the goose, duck and even chicken feathers, and selling them as down, is very risky.
To what extent is this kind of fraud rampant?In 2005, the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of the People's Republic of China randomly inspected 60 enterprises in 10 provinces, and the pass rate was only 533%。In 2006, the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of the People's Republic of China checked again, and this time the pass rate was still less than 7%.
Although other manufacturers are going to live or die, as the industry leader, Bosideng is thriving, and it continues to improve its quality, such as taking the lead in launching the "goose down for duck down" action. Therefore, Bosideng not only consolidated its position as the leader, but also became the largest Chinese apparel company in terms of sales in 2006 and the first "world famous brand" in the apparel industry in 2007.
As a result, Bosideng began to expand on a large scale, and began to increase the number of stores by means of franchise and self-operation, with a maximum of 13,000 stores.
But good days are always short-lived. After 2010, there were several major challenges in a row, which made the entire down jacket industry anxious.
First and foremost, the consumer group has changed, and 85, especially the post-90s, has gradually become the main buyer.
The brain circuits of these people are different from those of the elders, the functionality is just the foundation, and the main fashion trend is a trend, so they can't stand the old-fashioned mainstream models at that time, and they shudder at a glance, saying that this is a "mother's customized" down jacket. At this time, foreign brands such as Uniqlo and ZARA adopted the "fast fashion" strategy, that is, new products are released every week, and ZARA can even produce more than 10,000 models every year, and the sense of design is strong, and the soul of the post-90s generation has been successfully hooked away.
In addition, these young people began to buy clothes on the market, so some Tao brands rose rapidly. However, most traditional brands are still on the sidelines, caught off guard by this change, and offline stores have been greatly impacted, which also means that the traditional wholesale model of the apparel industry is becoming more and more difficult, while the new model of direct-to-consumer is emerging.
There is also a big problem in marketing, because the post-90s generation does not turn on the TV or read the newspaper at all, so the "brain platinum" advertising bombardment does not work, which leads to more and more fragmented marketing scenarios and more and more difficult marketing.
These changes have severely impacted the entire apparel industry, and even the hegemons such as Li Ning and Bosideng cannot bear it, resulting in a large backlog of inventory. Li Ning could only upgrade its brand in 2012, and in the following years, it lost 3.1 billion.
Bosideng was the same, after 2012, revenue and net profit began to decline, and it could only shrink its front, closing more than 5,000 stores in 2015 and more than 1,300 in 2016.
At this time, the down jacket market is more volatile than in the past, there are 3,500 companies in the country, more than 100 brands, the market is highly saturated, and all of them are concentrated in the low-end market to fight the first battle, so the whole industry is anxious in those years, and the market transformation under the consumption upgrade has become the consensus of the industry.
The strategy adopted by Li Ning is to embrace the "national trend" to rejuvenate the brand, and it has successfully achieved transformation.
Bosideng's transformation strategy is to be international, young and high-end. Therefore, you can see that after 2017, Bosideng's painting style has changed abruptly.
In order to complete the internationalization, Bosideng frequently appeared in various fashion weeks, cooperated with well-known designers frequently, and the advertising slogan also changed from "give you the warmth of your family" to "best-selling in 72 countries".
In order to complete the youthfulness, Bosideng invited various traffic stars to make endorsements, and then launched the same style of celebrities, and increased fashion design elements to improve the quality of fabrics.
In order to complete the high-end, it has launched co-branded models with Maserati and China Aerospace to improve its own tonality. In order to further enhance its image, Bosideng continued to close stores, and followed the example of Zara and HM, and concentrated its firepower on opening *** in the core business districts of first- and second-tier cities
But ** does not mean that you want to go up, the key is whether consumers can accept it. At the critical moment of the transformation of many down jacket brands, a foreign brand appeared and helped domestic manufacturers.
In 2018, Canada Goose officially entered China. This is a foreign brand founded in 1957, and it started with a high-end positioning and insisted on producing in Canada. Because of its high tonality, it has been loved by Western elites, coupled with the fact that it has been cooperating with Hollywood, its fame has increased greatly, and celebrities and politicians like to wear it, so it has been promoted to a first-line brand in the high-end market, and it has gradually gained popularity in China, and some people even go abroad to buy it.
The entry of Canada goose has brought two major changes to the domestic down jacket market, the first is that there is a market vacuum.
The unit price of Canada goose is high, with an average unit price of more than 1,000 US dollars, that is, about 7,000 yuan, tens of thousands of dollars are not rare, and they are still selling very hot. However, before 2018, the average price of domestic down jackets was about 1,000 yuan, and big brands such as Bosideng could be sold for 2,000 yuan, which led to a market vacuum of 2,000 to 7,000 yuan.
The second change is that the goose has changed consumers' perception of the upper limit of down jackets.
The pricing of the goose activates the anchoring effect in marketing, that is, what was considered expensive in the past looks less expensive under the backdrop of more expensive competitors, which is why Starbucks sells Evian water for more than 20 yuan.
I don't know if it's a coincidence, since 2018, Bosideng has adopted a comprehensive price increase strategy, gradually increasing the price of its main products from 1,000-2,000 yuan to 2,000-3,000 yuan, and in 2019, it will launch a summit series of tens of thousands of yuan.
Bosideng is the leader of the industry, and after it raised prices, the vacated ** range was immediately seized by brands such as men's wardrobes, resulting in a big price increase in the entire industry.
In any case, Bosideng's transformation strategy was successful, with revenue from 88800 million, skyrocketing to 162 in fiscal year 2021 and 2022100 million, doubled, and the net profit was even more fierce, from 6200 million rose to 20600 million, which is three times the original.
The success of the boss has given a sample to the brothers, so some people-friendly brands such as Yaya have also begun to seek high-end layout, embarked on the route of light luxury, and some tags have also begun to double.
But the success of the high-end layout of any industry has to pay a high price, the most important of which is marketing expenses, especially when your brand value is not high, you have to spend more money.
In the case of Bosideng, sales and distribution expenses, including marketing, increased from 195.1 billion yuan, up to 671.7 billion yuan, accounting for the proportion of the group's total revenue, also increased from 2862% to 3807%, close to four.
There is no way, if you want to go high-end, then you can only rely on constantly throwing money to enhance the brand value. Only after the brand promotion is completed and consumers think that you are a cow x sparkle, the proportion of marketing can gradually decline.
But no one can tell you about this, if the little sister of the shopping guide tells me, handsome guy, we raised the price this year because the sales expenses have risen by another 30%, then I will immediately turn around and run.
Now let's summarize that the fundamental reason why down jackets have become more and more expensive over the years is the comprehensive high-end of the industry, which is not only reflected in the material aspects of down, fabric, design, and artificiality, but also the continuous rise in marketing costs caused by manufacturers in order to enhance brand value.
The reason for this phenomenon is, on the one hand, that manufacturers want to get rid of homogeneous competition and a high degree of involution. On the other hand, it does cater to the trend of consumption upgrading, that is, the expectations of some consumers for high quality and high brand value.
We do hope that there are some domestic brands that can become real high-end brands, otherwise the high-end down jacket market can only be handed over to foreign companies.
But this trend of high-end is not without problems, and it cannot last long, because this is a path for the whole industry to follow the boss, as if high-end is a panacea for all diseases. In fact, it is not, the market is hierarchical, and the positioning of each brand is different, and there is no need for so many high-end products, one to three are enough. In the past few years, this situation can be said to be a chaotic period for the industry.
And for mainstream consumers, their income has not risen as crazy as down jackets, and if **all the time**, then most consumers, sooner or later, will turn to down jacket alternatives. In fact, this trend has been seen since last year, but this year's environment has made this trend more obvious.
In fact, we don't need any administrative means to intervene, since it is a market economy, then the market has the final say, and consumers will make their own choices.
In the cold winter of December 10, 2000, the reporter of "People**" interviewed Gao Dekang, the founder of Bosideng. Mr. Gao said: The essence of the famous brand is the people's brand, and the people's brand has three meanings, one is to carefully design for ordinary consumers, the second is to create excellent quality, and the third is to make the working class affordable.
The first two are now done by many brands, and the third one, I believe that there will be domestic brands that can do it again in the future, and we salaried people just wait.
Give me a thumbs up and encourage me).
Reference: The long-accumulated crisis of the outbreak of down jackets "Zhangjiazhou".
How to go down clothing in the world - remember the development road of Bosideng" Gong Yongquan Zhu Jingruo.
China's down jacket market has entered a mature period
Research on the Communication Strategy of Domestic Down Apparel Brands under the Background of Consumption Upgrading: A Case Study of Bosideng
The hot summer is out of season, and the merchants are competing for the off-season market.
Bosideng closes more than 5,000 stores a year, and it can't only sell down jackets.