Another Chinese New Year is over, and our biggest bond with this festival is always related to food. The most representative is the Chinese New Year's Eve dinner, as well as those memories related to taste. When I leave home and return to work, the entrustment of my relatives is always inseparable from the phrase "eat well", and the trunk of the suitcase is filled with not only the taste of home, but also the health entrustment of people who are wandering.
But for urban migrant workers, "eating well" now seems to be a bit of a luxury. More often, when the work is busy, the conditions are not allowed, and the ** ruthless, the "little thing" of eating has to be put back.
In fact, eating well is living a good life, and it is also the easiest way to love yourself. At the beginning of the Year of the Dragon, we would like to give you our best wishes: Eat well.
A Bite of China" season 2 stills
In the pen of the food writer Shen Po,Who said Hangzhou is a food desert? Those childhood taste buds deeply shaped her, the old man who paid attention to food, the vegetable market in her childhood, the fragrant meal and meal, as well as the unique ...... of her hometownFashion & Health specially invited food writer Shen Po to talk about how she "ate well" in her childhood memories - this sentence is home.
This topic is a bit difficult for me, because due to the special reasons of my work, I eat a decent meal almost every day.
I think everyone has a different definition of "good", and the shallow one is to be regular and quantitative, and try to be healthy and balanced. But most people aspire to a lifestyle that is contradictory, ...... love and freedom, wealth and health, hormones and marriageThere are some rules that you can forget at any time or pick them up at will.
But when I eat, I always think of "good". Even if you forget to grow up, there will always be a pair of chopsticks slowly picked up in the depths of your memory.
Good food, in my heart, must be without work, but it may be harder than work. As soon as I don't have the flavor of the New Year, I especially yearn for a meal when I was a child, which has to start with the vegetable market of my grandparents.
Stills from the third season of "Flavor World".
When I was a child, my parents were too busy, and during the winter and summer vacations, I was "assigned" to my grandparents' house. Sounds like a happy life of "child labor" is about to begin. As soon as I woke up in the morning, my grandfather's "** radio as an alarm clock, I knew that I had to get up quickly and go grocery shopping." My task is to make my grandfather's little abacus.
I remember hearing that Lewinsky and Clinton practiced friendship when I was still in elementary school. Early in the morning, our family held a short family morning meeting, and the final conclusion was to eat tarpon stewed tofu in the evening.
Hangzhou's local cuisine does not have the name of abalone and ginseng wings that is more expensive than the taste.
Stills from the third season of "Flavor World".
For the three bored grandparents and grandchildren, eating is really a very important thing. I remember that in the smell of aged fish balls and the smell of entering the water, I carried my grandfather's vegetable basket through the smiling vegetable stall owners, whether they were selling stubble snow mushrooms or high-spirited rooster ......Almost everyone knows us.
If I take the lettuce on the day I buy vegetables, it looks like I am holding a pot of plants that are too tall to my head from a distance. My grandfather studied in a church school when he was a child, so he liked to comb the back of a Shanghai "old carat" when he was old. When I was a child, I was a student with bangs, and the round and high-arched shed of the vegetable field was like the background light of the theater illuminating the deep vegetable field.
Stills from the movie "This Killer Is Not Too Cold".
The owners of the vegetable market take special care of regular customers, and often "bargain" in advance, such as verbally reporting a VIP ** that obviously suffers a loss to show closeness. Although I was in elementary school, I had a job accompanying my grandfather to the vegetable market: remember how much money I spent that day.
My grandfather has the habit of an old accountant, that is, he keeps accounts, and touches the ...... "one cucumber" and "two eggplants" with relishThree pieces in total. My grandmother worked for a seafood company, so the finger-wide "scallion grilled hairtail" and the "yellow croaker in the soup" that could not fit in the soup bowl were usually not included in ......the accounts
Jiangsu and Zhejiang people, ancestors know it".Two-headed blackIt is also recognized as the top pork. When I was a child, the rice at home was cooked, but the Dongpo meat boiled at the two ends was not yet good, so I waited by the pot with a rice bowl. The pork belly is cut into four large squares, neatly stacked in a casserole, put onion knots, star anise, cinnamon, in addition, the seasoning is only soy sauce, my grandfather used beer as water, but he didn't like to put sugar.
Many people think that the old Dongpo meat will be tied with straw, but in fact, it is only needed when the hotel is heated repeatedly, and I am afraid that it will not be shaped. Eat it at home, **will, it's just right to burn it.
A Bite of China" season 2 stills
When I was in the upper grades of primary school, Hangzhou's silk foreign trade industry was in the ascendant, and the dining table was quietly "foreign". Grandparents' and grandparents' Chinese New Year's Eve dinner usually has two tables, the adults' table has red wine and blue ribbon, and the children's table has coke and "champagne".
This "champagne" is not the other "champagne", and in retrospect, it should be the sparkling wine of the champagne region of France. But adults call it that, this special "gift" between a child and ** can't be considered alcohol. This kind of "presumptuousness" was gladly acquiesced by the adults at the noisy children's table during the New Year, between opening one eye and closing one eye
However, "Champagne" should only be drunk at the beginning of the meal. The snacks on the table didn't ring the alarm clock at all. Hangzhou people attach great importance to the "fried goods" on the table during the Chinese New Year, I will go with my grandfather to buy a "leisure fruit" before the second seven of the year, and go to the "Zou Ji" fried goods shop that he is familiar with.
The store didn't do business all summer, and Qiu Laohu didn't do it, and he didn't do it when he wasn't happy, but he always remembered what his grandfather was going to buy. I even think it's strange that they see each other about once a year.
Stills from the third season of "Flavor World".
My grandmother loves a kind of small "little Jingsheng", which is actually a kind of shelled peanuts, fried quickly and not scorched, and every bite is fragrant, which is more enjoyable than ordinary sunflower seeds. Grandpa likes limited** pumpkin seeds, and there are a few white bellies with a little black on them, just right.
I love pistachios and open pine nuts (Brazilian pine nuts were only popular when I was in college). Probably everyone has the surname "Kai", which is the same as "expenses", and the common point is that it is expensive and delicious.
Open pine nuts are a rarity that is much more expensive than Lin'an pecans. Children don't have to wrestle with shells, they don't have to eat more saliva than shells like they eat watermelon seeds; You don't have to stop at all, like eating hand-peeled pecans, where the meat is more broken than the shell.
However, the degree of deliciousness is indeed difficult to determine between the three. I prefer to peel pine nuts, and I can immediately experience the happiness of a little squirrel, and eat while playing, which is very sweet.
Stills from the third season of "Flavor World".
Although imported jelly and gem sugar biscuits are eye-catching, and you have to grab a trophy for a Chinese New Year's Eve snack, chocolate is still popular with children on the table. The wine chocolate is seen by adults, and if you eat one more, you will be warned.
Belgium Guylian already had it at that time, and when it was opened, it was a "shell" shaped cream chocolate, with different shapes, the younger ones were picked first, and the younger brother asked the younger sister to pick first.
Adults must ensure a relatively fair distribution of "love" in order to make the "sweet society" of children stable and harmonious. White rabbit toffee is one of the few "standing reserves" that are not afraid of falling out of favor, and if a child cries accidentally, he will stuff one, and wait for the milk smell to seep out, and the tears will be quietly collected.
Stills from the Summer and Autumn Chapter of the Little Forest.
Each family has its own cuisine, but our family has it every yearWhite chopped chicken, hang san fresh and spring rolls are essentialTarget. My task in the vegetable market is usually to queue up to buy fish balls, egg dumplings and spring rolls, and carry baskets and wait for adults to "walk around" to come back.
The stalls of spring roll skin are generally martial arts masters, holding the dough in the right hand, holding a shovel in the left hand, touching a wipe in the right hand, and peeling a shovel in the left hand. As for the fish ball stall, it is actually a molecular dish that is cooked at a low temperature and slowNo one would have imagined that the hand-beaten balls made with grass carp (or baotou fish) float in a huge basin of water that does not boil, and take them home to cook soup, and eat them like kissing a baby's cheek
Each stall has the friendship of each stall, and the snow mushroom wants the stall owner to pickle it in his own tank, so that the fried cuttlefish and some winter bamboo shoots are fresh. The white chopped chicken must be a steer that has been set in the grandmother's vegetable field in advance, a small rooster about 7 months old. The soup left over from the white chopped chicken is directly used to make Hangsanxian. According to my observation, my family's "three fresh" recipes are fish balls, egg dumplings, shrimp, and the others include fried pork skin, longkou vermicelli, winter bamboo shoot slices, and alpine cabbage.
Stills from the Hangzhou chapter of My Food Guide.
Hangzhou spring rolls, fresh for dinner are not fried, the two ends are pushed in, and they will be fried the next day. Hangzhou fried buns are still warm insideThe taste of shredded mushrooms, shredded winter bamboo shoots, shredded meat and leek sprouts, stimulated by Huyang soy sauce and Shaoxing rice wine, made me have a puddle of saliva in my heart, and there were endless ripples, which leaked from my childhood mouth
By the way, winter bamboo shoots and ham are generally used as monosodium glutamate in my family. It's just that the winter bamboo shoots are used in the Tiannu scattered style, and the ham is only sliced and steamed fish, and when I was a child, my family used to eat mandarin fish or sea bass.
Of course, my family also has kung fu dishes like "fried black fish fillet", the master of the big dish is my uncle, and the whole family and women are waiting with bated breath for him to come from work to cook the star dish of this Chinese New Year's Eve dinner. Evenly remove the bones and slice the black fish, lightly apply a thin layer of corn starch and a little shredded green pepper, and stir-fry out of the pan instantly.
Crispy, elastic, and fresh, the three are combined in one place, as if the black fish has another life on the tip of the tongue. Anyway, when I was a child, I felt that it was tasteless in the world.
Stills from the Hangzhou chapter of My Food Guide.
I'm ashamed, but my mom is actually the worst cook in the family. My grandparents are all from old-fashioned wealthy families and are good at eating and drinking, while my mother was born at a very old age, and it is very difficult to marry in a special era. Because of the gentle and capable father, even if my mother is not diligent, she is not the kind of person who is good at cooking, and she will be cared for, and by the way, I will be shaded by the way, this cute little oil bottle.
However, my dad always praised my mom for having two stupid dishes that no one could beat: steamed plum boy fish and shredded pork with Hangzhou pepper. It all sounds very ordinary, and I used to suspect that it was my father's. But after eating, you will understand that it is not because my mother is capable, but because she is careful enough in the ingredients
Stills from the Hangzhou chapter of My Food Guide.
When I was young, I couldn't eat spicy food, and the only thing I could eat was my mother'sStir-fried meat with Hangzhou pepper。She only stir-fried local pork tenderloin with early summer Hangzhou pepper, and it is best to have a little chicken broth or pork broth as water, which tastes sweet and tender. Stir-fry the tenderloin, people with poor levels can still fry the old, and the shredded meat will definitely not be able to stuff the teeth. In early summer, the Hangzhou pepper has not yet grown skin, and it has added the fragrance of local pigs, and it is fat, like meat.
The other one is even more testing, when I was a child, I had a psychological shadow about eating fish, and I was stuck by both large and thin thorns. I prefer my mother's steamed plum boy, which is smooth and less prickly, but in fact, there is only soy sauce, rice wine, old ginger slices and self-boiled pork.
Steamed plum fish must be wild, about the length of a girl's palm. Moreover, the fish sticks are about the same size, make sure they are cooked together, the eyes are slightly protruding, and they can be cooked before they burst out.
Such a request may have been well fulfilled when I was a child. But now there are few wild plum children, and they have to walk through two or three stalls in the vegetable field in the early morning to collect them like stamp collect. As long as five minutes, the swaying lid of the pot is full of aroma, and the mother is turning the Lolita little fish into a charming tongue
Stills from the Hangzhou chapter of My Food Guide.
I often worked as an assistant in the back kitchen, while listening to my grandfather talk about my mother's ugly things when she was a child. My grandfather always said coldly: "We don't want to eat it on our fingers." "I listen to it once, and I still laugh once. Now that I remember it, I can only tear up.
Later, when my grandparents were old, my uncle and aunt began to take turns entertaining guests. After that, there was only the past of taking turns to treat guests.
Now no matter where you are, you can still hear the phrase "remember to eat well", and this sentence is home
Edit | raychel
Illustration by Bai Ji.
New ** design Wang Yuzhe.
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