Written by Broad Travel.
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2. For more than 200 years in the Qing Dynasty, Changbai Mountain was mysterious and unpredictable, like an unapproachable elf.
Changbai Mountain in a broad sense is a mountain range, which stretches for more than 2,000 kilometers and covers an area of more than 300,000 square kilometers from the Wanda Mountain on the bank of the Ussuri River in the east to Dalian Lushun on the coast of the Yellow Sea in the west. The gray-white and yellowish pumice rocks gushing out of Changbai Mountain due to volcanic eruptions, coupled with the snow on the top of the mountain, make this mountain show a white glow even in the warm summer, so it is called Changbai Mountain. Changbai Mountain has always been a sacred mountain in people's minds. The name of Changbai Mountain was first seen in the "Liao Zhi" and "Jin History". Due to the difficult terrain and the harsh climate, few people enter the mountains, and for a long time, people knew little about it.
In the sixteenth year of the Kangxi reign of the Qing Dynasty (1677), the Kangxi Emperor instructed: "Changbai Mountain is the birthplace of many miracles, and the mountain spirit should be crowned and the ceremony will be held forever." Since then, the ban on Changbai Mountain for more than 200 years has begun, and only the government is allowed to dive pearls, dig ginseng, and hunt, and Mongolians and Han people are not allowed to enter.
After that, in the sixteenth year of Kangxi (1677 AD), Aixin Jueluo Xuanye ordered the minister Jueluo Wumu and his party of four to go to Changbai Mountain to pay homage and pay attention to his "detailed understanding". According to research, Wu Mu Na did not really see the main peak of Changbai Mountain during this visit, although Wu Mu Ne also saw a pool of pond water, but there was more than one pool of water in Changbai Mountain. Wu Mu Ne's submission to the Kangxi Emperor after visiting Changbai Mountain reads the following paragraph about the Tianchi of Changbai Mountain: "There is a pond on the top of the mountain, surrounded by five peaks, standing near the water, the clear water is clear, the ripples are rippling, and there is no grass and trees by the pool. It can be seen that Takekina is suspected of hearsay.
More than 200 years later, the Qing Dynasty sent people to explore Changbai Mountain 13 times, but every time they made a big exploration, the result was always halfway and fruitless. Some surveyors lost their way as soon as they entered the forest; Some were attacked by tigers and wolves, and they were frightened; Some of them did not reach the top of the mountain, and when they saw the thick fog coming, they thought that the ancestral gods were angry, and hurriedly kowtowed and bowed, turned around and went down the mountain in embarrassment. Fortunately, Changbai Mountain is regarded by the imperial court as a sacred mountain and a sacred mountain of the dragon vein, and mortals can't approach it, and it is reasonable to see it.
Therefore, every time the investigation is a glimpse, with little effect, so that more than 200 years have passed, Changbai Mountain is still mysterious, like an unapproachable elf, hidden in a fog.
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3. Start with the "Name and Altimeter of the Sixteen Peaks of Changbai Mountain" billboard.
Guangyou finally ascended the Changbai Mountain, only to see the main peak in a thousand postures, its long years of wind and rain carving, the mountain peaks are rugged and strange, the posture is different, the ring is arranged into a large circle, or white or yellow, or green or green peaks and peaks are clustered with a pool of clear water of the heavenly pool, it is really shocking, excited!
In the main peak of Changbai Mountain, there is a billboard of "Name and Altimeter of the Sixteen Peaks of Changbai Mountain", which is very eye-catching to tourists. The above introduction says, the name of Changbai Mountain has a process of change, China's first geographical monograph "Classic of Mountains and Seas" called it unsalty mountain, said that the main peak of Changbai Mountain white like salt accumulation, but a taste but not salty, so it is called unsalty mountain. In the Han Dynasty, it was called Shan Dan Da Ling or Gai Ma Da Shan. Later Wei called Taishan and Taihuang Mountain. In the Jin Dynasty, it was called Changbai Mountain. However, the names of the peaks around Tianchi were named by Liu Jianfeng after his inspection at the end of the Qing Dynasty.
The names and altimeters of the sixteen peaks of Changbai Mountain are marked with 16 peaks, which are Baitou Peak, Baiyun Peak, Huagai Peak, Sanqi Peak, Yuzhu Peak, Tianhuo Peak, Zixia Peak, Zhipan Peak, Longmen Peak, Jinping Peak, Crouching Tiger Peak, Tiebi Peak, Tiyun Peak, Crown Peak, Lone Falcon Peak, and Guanri Peak. Among them, Baitou Peak is the highest, with 2749 meters; followed by Baiyun Peak, which is 2691 meters; The peak is the shortest at 2,510 meters.
The name and altimeter of the sixteen peaks of Changbai Mountain indicate that the sixteen peaks of Changbai Mountain were named by Liu Jianfeng in 1908 and have been used to this day. So who is Liu Jianfeng?
Liu Jianfeng (1865-1952), the word Tongjie, the name Zhisuo Daoren, the old man of Zhili, the crazy Taoist, after the exploration of Changbai Mountain, called himself "Tianchi Diaosuo" (the old man of Tianchi fishing), and was also known as Liu Datong after the success of the Xinhai Revolution. He is a native of Anqiu, Shandong Province (formerly Zhucheng County), and is said to be a descendant of Prime Minister Liu Yong. He "inherited his family education at an early age, and was handsome and wise." At the age of eight, he read the poetry scriptures, and the weak crown made up for the county tribute. "Ren Fengtian waited for 12 years to know the county, there were books, poems, paintings and prints handed down, and the Changbai series of books had a collection of "Liu Datong's Poems".
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Fourth, Liu Jianfeng was ordered to survey Changbai Mountain, went through countless hardships, and overcame difficulties and obstacles.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the Qing Dynasty was in turmoil, if it were not for the emergence of some overseas "visitors" in and around Changbai Mountain, perhaps they would not have organized the ** and the army to explore Changbai Mountain. Historical data prove that in the 33rd year of Guangxu (1907 AD), from the first month to the end of July, there were no less than 300 people from Japan and South Korea, many of whom were soldiers, military police, and policemen, and the highest official rank was a lieutenant general. Some of these people are disguised as agricultural scholars and tourists, and they gather in groups, and they are called expeditions but are actually investigations. The number of contacts reached three times at most, covering the entire territory of Jilin, and its ambition to deliberately covet China's territorial territory was clearly exposed, which caused strong unease in the Qing Dynasty.
Under such a grim situation, the Qing Dynasty sent people to the Changbai Mountain area to conduct on-the-spot investigations on the boundary between the two provinces of Fengji, the Changbai Mountain, and the headwaters of the three rivers, so as to solve the border defense problem in the southern part of the northeast and strengthen the control and management of the area. In the 34th year of Guangxu (1908), Zhang Fengtai, Li Tingyu, Liu Jianfeng and others were ordered by Xu Shichang, the governor of the three eastern provinces, to go to the Changbai Mountain area to investigate. Liu Jianfeng was the deputy member of the Fengji Boundary Survey Committee, and at the same time was promoted as the foreman by his peers.
In 1908 (the 34th year of Guangxu), Liu Jianfeng set off with a survey team (including 5 surveyors and 16 soldiers). Liu Jianfeng led the survey personnel and took the lead.
However, the danger came more suddenly than he expected. As soon as the group walked thirty miles, they encountered a life-and-death catastrophe and met three fierce bears. Fortunately, the first patrol was outstanding in marksmanship, killed the bear with one shot, and saved everyone, but this unexpected danger still made the exploration team have to return the same way. A week later, they dressed up from Linjiang and set off again.
Liu Jianfeng's exploration of Changbai Mountain was extremely arduous. He wrote in "The Chronicles of Changbai Mountain": "Changbai Mountain is foggy, nine clouds and one sunny, and climbers have a regret of seeing each other. It is also difficult to burn the ground and wood, and it is not allowed to sleep in the open. Its camping place is far away from the mountain, and it is difficult for people to go back and forth all day long. Therefore, because there are more than 200 miles, there are no relics, and there is no name, it is rare for people to visit, or is it strange? And there are poems: "Ten days of mountaineering and nine days of rain, stepping on two or three pairs of remnants", can not ride a horse to climb the vine tendons, cut the stone cracks. No more, like a caper and a serpentine march. When encountering haze, they hold hands, talk and connect, and are afraid of being separated three steps away. Liu Jianfeng said that the most dangerous time was to cross the Mushi River: "Yu Xun Sanyuan, went to the river and fell on the cliff, injured his abdomen and back, recovered from danger, and slept by the river." Drinking goat blood four times and sticking tiger bone glue to heal. "Baishan Ji Yong" said well: "Baishan is fortunate to keep a confidant, and he died and lived by the Falling Horse River." No matter how big the difficulties and obstacles were, they didn't intimidate Liu Jianfeng.
The Chronicles of Changbai Mountain and Jianggang truly records the arduous process of this investigation. Liu Jianfeng and others "entered the mountain for ten days, encountered rain on the ninth day, and climbed the slope four times, Lintianchi twice, looked for Mu Shi for one day, looked for the warm river for one day, and looked for the source of the Songhua River for three days." This is an unprecedented feat.
Changbai Mountain is not only mysterious and unpredictable, walking through the deep mountains and old forests, poisonous snakes and beasts, steep wall undercurrents, misty vision, and lack of medical treatment, for explorers there is no response before, no supply after the back, danger often accompanies it. Liu Jianfeng escaped death without the slightest intention of retreating, which shows the tenacity of his spirit.
Written on January 11, 2024, please see "On the White Mountain: Visiting Changbai Mountain (7)".
References: 1] Liu Jianfeng. Changbai Mountain Jianggang Zhiluo[M].Changchun: Jilin Literature and History Publishing House, 1987
2] Sun Wencai. Not for a moment of glory, but for a thousand years of reputation: Liu Jianfeng's exploration and development of Changbai Mountain [J].Social Science Front, 1994, (06): 198-202
3] Wen Chu. The legendary life of Liu Datong [J].Archives and Historiography, 1996, (05): 57-60