2024 starts with travel
1) In the middle of winter, the sky is cold and the ground is freezing, how did the ancients spend the long and nine cold days? Looking through the ancient books, I found that they can play more than us, such as boiling snow and cooking tea, watching snow in the lake, listening to snow knocking bamboo, fishing in the snow, stepping on the snow to find plums, etc., all kinds of winter elegant things are inseparable from the word snow. However, snow is a luxury in Hangzhou, south of the Yangtze River.
After the big cold, Hangzhou finally waited for a "quasi-snow". The forest shows that the darkness is dark, and the twilight in the city is cold. In the morning, the small snowflakes as fine as dust fluttered endlessly, and the beautiful garden plants and trees turned white. Although it was not as big as expected, the "little potatoes" in Hangzhou couldn't help but be overjoyed, leaving the impression of the early snow this year. Many people even ran to the broken bridge of the White Causeway and waited stupidly.
Su Tong once said when he wrote about the winter in Jiangnan: "The snow in Jiangnan is very modest, and there are two events a year, which makes the adults frown and makes the children not hate the winter." The small pieces of snow fell for two hours and stopped, and the plan to learn from the ancients to visit the snow scene fell through.
Fortunately, it's not just a snow word that makes people interesting in the middle of winter. After winter, the fallen leaves gradually drift away, the mountains and trees in the south of the Yangtze River become extremely thin, such as a Song Yun ancient painting, it is neither as durable as the curtain of the willow color before it, nor is it as amazing as the distant northern country "Erbin" ice ice ice is clear and the rime is so amazing, the trees that used to be "the sound of birds can stand on the horse, and the forest color can forget the machine" have been "dumb and dumb and unpleasant" in the hearts of many people, and only the desolation and poignancy of a tree remain.
The black tree was once the face of Hangzhou in autumn. Many scenic spots and rivers, streets are planted with this kind of tree, come to Hangzhou in late autumn to see the autumn color, the first thing that catches the impression is this black tree, it is beautiful tree shape, natural beauty, attract visitors to stop and look up, Lu lobby said that it is "red in the maple, the garden is in September", it is not false at all. In the bleak winter, the black tree that few people care about has long faded out of people's circle of friends. I walked under the black tree several times and found that the thin and exposed branches have become a favorite place for small birds. Little birds are jumping around in the trees, happily tasting the small ginkgo of the black tree, which is the bird's favorite winter food, and the sparse black tree tops have also become a rare place for them to enjoy in winter!
Countless snow-white black trees hang on the treetops, looking up like stars in the sky. In the eyes of the poets, the white fruits of the black tree are as romantic as plum blossoms, these fruits arrive before plum blossoms, flourish more than plum blossoms, and although they are not fragrant at all, they are more simple. Therefore, there are many ancient poems about plum blossoms with black trees, and one of my favorites is written by the Ming Dynasty poet Shi Yanzhang: "The savage family under Jianglang Mountain, the desert is slanted towards the smoke and trees." The leaves of the black tree are drooping white seeds, and the unevenness is expected to be plum blossoms. "The bare black tree was compared to a plum blossom, and a different kind of fun suddenly poured out.
In contrast to the white fruit of the black tree are the red fruits on the treetops. In the cold winter season, the holly tree that grows on the lakeside is full of small red fruits, revealing a little delicate in the withered yellow willow color, implying the continuation and preciousness of life. The bright red fruits also attract birds to eat, giving them hope in the cold winter.
The holly tree is verdant and lush all year round. In winter, the branches are full of red fruits, like acacia beans. It is like plum blossoms, pines and cypresses, not afraid of the cold, loyal and unyielding, "the red face of holly is as beautiful as brocade, the branches and leaves are lush and new", since ancient times, poets have praised it. The color of the holly fruit is the Chinese red that people like, and if it is paired with the blue sky and white clouds, it looks even more joyful.
I don't know when the red fruits of the holly tree started to wither and wither, but I can see them at every spot all winter anyway. With the same qualities as them, there are also camellias. This year, I did not go to the camellia garden of the botanical garden as planned. But wandering around other scenic spots, I saw many camellias blooming on the side of the road, like red azaleas in spring, brilliant and dazzling. They have endured the wind and frost, and they still laugh proudly in the wind. Lu You once praised it: "Only the camellia is durable, and the green bushes have a few red branches." Even if it is scattered into mud, you must do your best to the end.
b).
Since it is difficult to see the snow in West Lake for ten years, it is very good to retreat and look at the winter sun. This winter, I went to the early West Lake several times. In the early morning, the first rays of sunlight shine through the faint mist and sprinkle on the surface of West Lake. The fog on the surface of the lake gradually lifted, revealing the clear water. The water of the lake glows golden in the sunlight, as if the entire surface of the lake has been coated with a thin layer of gold leaf.
Gradually, the pink color gradually spreads, and finally the entire sky is dyed golden red. The sun slowly rose from the direction of the six parks on the lake, first revealing a sharp red corner, and then jumping out of the lake. On the white causeway, there are many people who come to watch the sunrise, they either take pictures or quietly bask in the morning sun, enjoying this rare and spectacular moment.
The sky glows into the water, and the sky in the water is red for a while". The West Lake in the middle of winter seems to be particularly empathetic, the red sun erupts out, the glow is ten thousand ways, like the golden dragon dancing wildly on the surging lake, the momentum is majestic, the passion is surging. Unlike the sunrise in summer, the winter sun looks extremely brilliant and feels warm when it shines on the body. A few birds happily skimmed across the lake, preparing their boats to welcome the guests, adding a touch of agility to the orange light.
Of course, the weather in winter is often unpredictable. There have been several occasions when the morning light has come out of the house, and when I arrived at the West Lake, it was misty and misty, and I was in a natural ink painting. Fortunately, Su Dongpo's sentence "light makeup and heavy makeup are always appropriate" taught us to learn to be calm and calm, and to learn to be at peace with what happens.
The winter rain is dripping and cloudy. When passing through Longjing Road, I turned into the Shuangfeng Tea Expo Garden and went to see the tea garden. From a distance, the mountains are full of smoke, the tea plantations are more verdant, and even the koi fish in the small pond in front of the door are more jubilant.
Take a walk along the lonely mountain. In my opinion, Bai Causeway and Gushan Road facing southeast and Hougushan Road facing Beishan Street are often two completely different worlds. Looking at Libei Lake from here, it seems to be in a layer of light tulle, which is particularly hazy and quiet. "Take advantage of the pleasure to seek seclusion and not afraid of the cold, have their own fresh pen end", many birds and winter mandarin ducks like to stand here to "practice Jinggong", you look at it on the shore, they look at it on the water, people and birds stand and gaze at each other, the same scenery, but it is different joy.
I'm used to the misty and rainy ink painting of West Lake more often. Sitting on a cruise ship along the direction of the Su Causeway, sparkling, looking at the mountains, clouds and trees, I think of Yang Wanli's poem: "The shore and the lake are strange, and the mountains and rivers are suitable for both." I just say that the boat is picturesque, and I don't know what I am in the painting." No matter the wind, frost, rain or snow, every picture of the four seasons of West Lake is a limited edition!
This weekend, I made a temporary decision and went to Wushan one by one. This time I came up from the mountain road of Wugong Temple, and I want to see the West Lake in winter from a different perspective. During the Northern Song Dynasty, Mei Zhi served as the governor of Hangzhou, and Song Renzong gave the poem "The land has beautiful lakes and mountains, and the first state in the southeast" to say goodbye, which is the origin of Youmeitang. Ouyang Xiu, the leader of a generation of literary circles, once wrote the "Legend of Youmeitang", which was handwritten by Cai Xiang, a calligrapher of the Northern Song Dynasty, and stood next to Youmeitang.
Youmeitang has witnessed Hangzhou's "beauty of mountains and rivers, and the complexity of people's residences". I once subscribed to the WeChat *** account of "West Lake Youmeitang", and I usually like to look through the masterpieces. On this day, there are many tourists who have Meitang to relive this good story in the literary world. Passing through this hall, I went in to introduce it in detail and stayed for a long time.
Chenghuang Pavilion is a landmark building on Wushan Mountain in Hangzhou, in winter and spring, there are many visitors who climb high and enjoy the scenery. Take the elevator inside to the fourth floor. On the top of the attic, the West Lake is as flat as a mirror, the light boat is rippling, and the small island in the middle of the lake is vivid. Hangzhou is lined with high-rise buildings, with 100,000 households. The misty lakes and mountains can be seen in one mirror.
The City God's Pavilion is magnificent, comparable to the Yellow Crane Tower, Yueyang Tower, and Tengwang Pavilion, and has always been known as the four famous buildings in the south of the Yangtze River. Visitors come here to climb the Range Rover, and it is indispensable to sigh the couplets on both sides of the pavilion: "Eight hundred miles of lakes and mountains, I know what year it is a picture; 100,000 lights, all belong to the building here", it is said that Xu Wei made it in the Ming Dynasty. Around the top of the pavilion around the two circles, carefully taste the scenery at the heights, and feel that the pattern of enjoying the scenery suddenly opens up.
From the fourth floor down to the third floor, you can look up at the plaque of "Hushan Xinmei", which was written by Mr. Gu Yuxiu, which echoes the Youmei Hall that he visited before going upstairs just now. It not only writes the magnificence of Wushan, but also writes the unique natural and cultural beauty of West Lake and even Hangzhou. Such a sense of beauty, only by climbing high and looking far, can we have a different feeling. Isn't this the landscape of life?
3) After entering the wax moon, the New Year's flavor of Hangzhou is getting stronger and stronger. Smelling the smell of wax at the end of the year is not only a mundane matter of fireworks in the world, but also a major event to pray for blessings and welcome the new year. When 2023 is about to pass, various welcome activities have been held in various small areas of Hangzhou, and the Qian Wang Temple has held several large-scale market activities, but I missed the first few times, and I feel that I don't buy anything anyway, and there is nothing to see.
This time I changed my mind and came to join in the fun. As soon as the door opened, many citizens poured in. There are not only middle-aged and elderly people, but also young people. They have come to buy New Year's goods, visit scenic spots, pray for good luck, and look forward to the new year, full of New Year's Eve rituals. I also crowded into the crowd, looking at this and that, although I came back from the market empty-handed, I felt full of harvest in my heart.
Sauce duck, sauce meat and sausage are the New Year's flavor in the hearts of Hangzhou people. The sauce meat on the wall is not only a delicacy, but also a cultural inheritance. In the Xixi Wetland, the atmosphere of the New Year has been thick, and the sauce meat and lanterns hanging on the roadside have formed a beautiful landscape.
After all, the end of the old calendar is most like the end of the year. "Actually, the idyllic New Year is the most stylish. The most authentic New Year's flavor, the richest atmosphere, and the most lively scene are all hidden in the oncoming folk customs. The fragrance of sauce full of chicken, duck and fish wafts around, the carefully arranged small decorations are new and cute, and the small courtyard has a new look to welcome the arrival of the new year.
In the bustling old town, the smell of the New Year is more than I imagined. The place with the most fireworks in the world is the Dama Lane area on the edge of Taimiao Square, where there are crowds of people entering the market every day. As soon as you come out of the Drum Tower, this section of Zhongshan South Road already belongs to the Damaxiang Market. A beautiful young lady stood on the street and enthusiastically sent blessings and auspiciousness to the citizens who purchased New Year's goods for free.
On the street, the old uncle's flavored fire cake shop is doing a brisk business, and people have to pass by his small shop to smell his baked cakes. I don't know how many pancakes I have to sell every day. The walls are plastered with many celebrities who come to taste the pancakes. The old man was so busy with his work that he didn't care to speak.
The Southern Song Dynasty Royal Street is a vivid thousand-year-old road, full of life. In the early morning, shops have opened early to welcome customers, and nearby residents are busy shopping for New Year's goods, with happy and peaceful smiles on their faces. Compared with the folk customs paintings in the Yujie Exhibition Hall, it is still vibrant after nearly a thousand years of wind and rain.
From the Drum Tower, cross the busy Zhonghe Road and come to the outside of Deoksugung Palace. This ochre-red palace wall is a background wall that visitors who love beauty photography enjoy all year round. In the circle of friends, I don't know how many times I have seen other people's films. The winter sun is lovely, joyful and expressive. The palace wall in the wax moon has its own festive atmosphere. Before noon, not only the young ladies came to check in, but even the aunts also came to the camera.
Walking in Hangzhou in the middle of winter, I don't feel at all because of the gloom and taste, because of the cold and content. Recalling some elegant things in the winter of the ancients, I have long felt that as long as there is light in my heart and excitement in my eyes, the outside world will be a little interesting. When walking outside the palace wall of King Qian's Temple, I clearly smelled the wisps of elegant fragrance, and it was time to enjoy wax plum in winter!