This week's headlines in the domestic entertainment fashion circle were contracted by Zhang Ning. On February 26, as the editor-in-chief of the mainland version of "Vogue", she announced on Weibo that she would leave at the end of March this year and would not renew her contract with the fashion media group Contex. Everything suddenly felt familiar. Three years ago, Zhang Ning parachuted into this position, and it was also so without warning.
It's just that, compared with the past, the people who eat melons were stunned by her "there is no such person in the domestic entertainment and fashion circle", but now Zhang Ning's departure is a carnival on the whole network, and they can't wait to set off firecrackers to celebrate. People joke that this world is a grass stage team, and in their eyes, Zhang Ning is the representative of the "workplace bastard". Whether it is unaccustomed to water and soil, or a newborn calf, Zhang Ning's own comments, like "Vogue" in the past 3 years, are almost one-sided.
As early as November last year, the authoritative fashion ** "broke the news that Zhang Ning may leave "Vogue". In an article published by it, it was written that Zhang Ning's contract with Contex China will expire at the end of March this year. At the same time as this prediction, there was also a public announcement of the recruitment of the deputy editorial director of Vogue published by Contex China, and the responsibilities listed are similar to those of Zhang Ning's editor-in-chief. This also makes the report of ** much more credible. Coincidentally, this recruitment happened to come after the real "fashion witch" Anna Wintour came to China to participate in the "Vogue fashion power event".
As the global editorial director of "Vogue", Anna traveled a lot to inspect, but she saw a lot of chicken feathers: the biggest stars are only Zhou Dongyu, the country-style stage, and the chaotic live ......The most outrageous thing is the group photo of the two editors-in-chief and Zhou Dongyu, and the background is a blue curtain cloth that looks as cheap as Yiwu wholesale. In this group photo of the whole network out of the circle, Anna smirked, as hard as the clip that almost couldn't hold the curtain behind her.
3 years ago, 28-year-old Zhang Ning parachuted into the domestic entertainment fashion circle with a glamorous resume and became the youngest editor-in-chief in the history of "Vogue". But the doubts on her have not stopped. Photographers, influencers, bloggers, models, fashion consultants, filmmakers, ......She has so many labels that she is simply a female version of Da Bing. People speculate that the reason why Anna chose Zhang Ning is that as a Generation Z, she may understand young people and new ** better. Zhang Ning slapped Anna in the face in reverse. From the first cover after taking charge, "Vogue" began to be complained about getting uglier and uglier: either amateur models with lack of expressiveness, or they were unclear.
Her latest masterpiece is the cover of the February issue, which she personally photographed. Supermodel Cuckoo wears leather pants, drives a motorcycle, and splits her legs, so thunderous that it's hard to believe that this is a fashion product of 2024.
Another big move after Zhang Ning took office was to push some new faces of national models, but in terms of strength and starlight, they were far inferior to the previous generation of Liu Wen, He Cong and other gods. In addition to aesthetic failures, Zhang Ning also stepped on a lot of pitfalls in business. According to "**", the Chinese version of "Vogue" has a cover sponsorship of up to 3 million**, but Zhang Ning has opened the skylight several times, and the cover does not have any brand sponsorship, which makes the magazine lose tens of millions of income in vain.
Lifelike Huasheng CEO Feng Chusheng bombarded Zhang Ning
There is also the overturning ceremony, which lost the sponsorship of big brands such as Chanel before it was held, and replaced it with Levis, lululemon and Puma, which is not a track of luxury goods at all. But Zhang Ning herself seems to be very satisfied with her work. In her summary last year, she claimed that the rollover was "the biggest Vogue event to date" and that it attracted 9 billion organic traffic. The editor-in-chief of this Internet celebrity is estimated to have long understood the truth that "black and red are also red".
Unlike Zhang Ning and the Chinese version of "Vogue", which were ridiculed by the group, the Taiwanese version of "Vogue" has ushered in a salted fish turnaround in the past two years. From earthy to fashionable, behind the change in wind reviews, it is also because of a "young man" in the fashion circle. In 2020, the Taiwanese version of "Vogue" will change its coach, and Huang Wei, the editor-in-chief who had been the styling director of "Little Times", resigned and parachuted in the new handsome Sun Yi. This 42-year-old fashion KOL and celebrity took the same script as Zhang Ning: under the name of Taiwan's first socialite Sun Yunyun's cousin, she has never worked in a fashion magazine, has done graphic design, and has opened a home furnishing store ......
Sun Yi (right) at the celebrity party was dissatisfied with the appearance of related households from heaven, and a group of people resigned in anger, but Sun Yi was given the opportunity to reorganize the team. The people who eat melons thought that this would be the Taiwanese version of Zhang Ning, waiting for her to overturn, but they didn't expect Sun Yi to slap the spectator in the face. After taking office, she not only improved the visual level of the magazine by several levels, from the local style of the 90s to a simple and atmospheric sense of luxury, but also discovered more local models, combined with local culture, and won many praises.
The former earthy Taiwanese version of "Vogue".
Sun Yi's first Taiwanese class "Vogue" after taking office On the road of fashion localization, Sun Yi walked more steadily than Zhang Ning. first asked Internet celebrity photographer Zhong Ling to shoot a set of transgender clothing blockbusters for Xu Guanghan, which caused heated discussions on the whole network.
The cover of Xu Guanghan** "Vogue", which caused controversy, brought the girly cover blockbuster shot by Hikaru Mitsushima, the heroine of the popular Japanese drama "First Love", and also made mainland Vogue bow down: The same female star, in the same period, how can there be such a big difference?
The cover of the Vogue version of Kotai Mishima.
The cover of Hikaru Mishima Mainland's "Figaro".
Fashion magazines have been boldly using newcomers in the past two years. After the change of blood in foreign countries such as "Dazzed" and "i-Dest", new editors-in-chief of the post-90s generation have appeared, but the topic is not as good as "Vogue" at the top of the pyramid.
In this circle, the post-90s and post-80s generations are all "young people", and middle-aged men and women can also show their talents. The heroes behind the new carpet star "Sister Zan" Zendaya, supermodel Bella Hadid and other red carpet queens, stylists Law Roach and Sun Yi are the same generation. In the past, he opened a second-hand shop, and after climbing into Hollywood and the fashion circle, he relied on his antique brand haute couture and matching skills to create one topic after another for female stars.
Law Roach and Zendaya.
Today, Law Roach has become the hottest celebrity stylist in Hollywood and fashion, and he is worth a lot of money. There is also 27-year-old Charles de Vilmorin, a graduate of the Paris Fashion Institute, who has worked as a model, designer, and is now the creative director of his eponymous label and French fashion house Rochas. Even the master Gaultier, who designed clothes for Madonna and Leslie Cheung, favored him.
Charles de Vilmorin's star designer along the way is 35-year-old designer Olivier Rousteing, and the last to climb is also the luxury brand Balmain. In addition to being a designer, he is more like an Internet celebrity with his own traffic.
It's not new for Olivier Rousteing young influencers to dominate the fashion scene.
The fashion world has never been a place where only young people are welcome. Last month, the genius designer "Pirate Lord" John Galliano was doing things again at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. Now in the hands of Maion Margiela, he has created a midnight party inspired by the Parisian nightlife of the twenties and thirties of the last century. Under the Pont Alexandre III in Paris, models wore porcelain doll-like makeup and wore intricate and intricate haute couture designs from the Pirate Lord. The whole show is like a time trip to the lives of ladies and ladies of that era, feasting the eyes. In all its glory, people seem to be about to forget that the pirate master is already 64 years old. After 36 years of debut, he founded his own eponymous brand, took the helm of Givenchy, and ushered in his peak after taking the helm of Dior at the age of 37. In the 15 years that Dior has been fighting the country, the pirate has increased Dior's sales several times, and has created several beautiful shows that are still being archaeorated by netizens.
"Pirate Lord" At the peak of Dior in 2011, Pirate Lord left Dior due to negative events. Three years later, at the age of 54, he took charge of the current Margiela and continued to work in the fashion industry.
Margiela's latest haute couture showUnlike domestic entertainment, in comparison, the renewal of foreign fashion circles is simply turtle speed. Gao Tiye, who announced his retirement in 2020, was 68 years old at the time, and only waved goodbye after the last haute couture show he designed.
The 75-year-old Prada owner, "Aunt Miao", is still active in every runway of this big brand. Anna Wintour, who is the same age as her, has grown in fame and power since she was promoted four years ago.
Miuccia Prada (left) took a curtain call at the show, not to mention the 90-year-old Giorgio Armani, who is still designing the brand's haute couture collection every season, etc., at a level that has always attracted fans to praise "You can always trust Armani".
When he was young, Giorgio Armani watched these old men still calling for wind and rain in the professional field, and the internal entertainment people burst into tears. Don't talk about the old man, let's just say that Sun Yi's 40 years old has reached the peak of experience, mentality, and judgment, and it is the year of fighting. The so-called 35-year-old crisis is just a special crisis for internal entertainment, a special concept for PUA.