In the centuries-long history of horology, the perpetual calendar has a long history and is one of the oldest of horological complications.
Because of the high mechanical complications of this function, which places extremely high demands on watchmaking skills, perpetual calendar watches are often referred to as one of the three major complications of mechanical watches. In addition to being used by the Haute Horlogerie Brands on a daily basis, watches with a perpetual calendar function are also treasured by watch collectors.
Watches with a perpetual calendar function are not like annual and full calendar watches, which need to be manually adjusted at regular intervals. The perpetual calendar automatically distinguishes between leap years, common years, and large and small months. In the case of ensuring normal time, there is no need to adjust it for at least 100 years. Therefore, the end of February and the beginning of March every year is the time for my cousins to show their perpetual calendar watches.
2024 is a leap year, which means that a watch with a perpetual calendar will automatically jump to March 1, which is a unique occurrence that occurs at least once in four years.
Taking this opportunity, today we will take a look at some of the most memorable perpetual calendar creations that have been launched by major luxury watch brands in recent years.
Patek Philippe
A one-line sky perpetual calendar
In 1925, a perpetual calendar wristwatch with reference 97975 was introduced. It was the first perpetual calendar watch in history and Patek Philippe's first. Since its launch, the perpetual calendar function has been one of the most important complications of Patek Philippe.
At present, there are three types of Patek Philippe perpetual calendar watches, the first of which is the side-by-side double display at 12 o'clock, which shows the day of the week and the month respectively, and the analog date and moon phase window at 6 o'clock. This design dates back to 1941.
Patek Philippe's Ref. launched in 20175320g perpetual calendar.
The second is the classic inverted triangle three-eyed design, which dates back to the 1985 RefThe 3940, which has been on sale for more than 20 years, is a classic design of contemporary perpetual calendar watches and an irreplaceable perpetual calendar in the hearts of many collectors.
Patek Philippe ref3940
The third type of ** retrograde date layout perpetual calendar, day of the week and month are distributed on both sides, and the calendar hand will appear retrograde at the end of the month, which is very amazing.
Patek Philippe refThe 5159 is designed with a retrograde date.
In addition to the above three classic perpetual calendar layouts, Patek Philippe has also launched a "first-line sky" perpetual calendar 5236p with a unique display in recent years. This watch is a departure from Patek Philippe's perpetual calendar designs in the past. The unique perpetual calendar function is presented in a side-by-side display, which is simple and unique.
Audemars Piguet
Slim perpetual calendar
In 2020, Audemars Piguet unveiled a record-breaking, ultra-thin perpetual calendar watch, the RD 2, with a movement thickness of just 288mm, the case thickness is only 62mm, a record for one of the thinnest perpetual calendar mechanical watches in the world.
Last year's ultra-thin perpetual calendar, in addition to continuing the ultra-thin design of RD 2, also changed the previous combination of "titanium + platinum", and directly used all-titanium material, which not only made the perpetual calendar watch lighter, but also effectively improved its wearing comfort.
As we all know, the traditional perpetual calendar structure is usually a three-layer structure, which makes it difficult to change the thickness of the watch all the time.
Audemars Piguet's designers will integrate the perpetual calendar components from three layers to one layer, and also derive two patents, such as the integration of the month-end cam into the date wheel and the month cam into the month wheel, classifying the dial as a plywood. In this way, the thickness of the movement can be controlled at 2At 9mm, it is the most automatic perpetual calendar watch on the market.
Vacheron Constantin
Skeletonized perpetual calendar
As one of the oldest watch brands in the world, Vacheron Constantin's perpetual calendar watches are also impressive, with the highlights of the Skeleton Perpetual Calendar series launched in recent years, in addition to the traditional perpetual calendar models.
The skeleton dial version is based on the solid dial, which further enhances the visual impact and has won the Grand Prix de Genève for Best Date and Chronometer Watch, and is highly recognized by professionals.
Renowned for its craftsmanship and design both inside and out, Vacheron Constantin has expanded its options with the introduction of a pink gold version and a white gold version.
The openwork version has a more refined and three-dimensional dial, with a pattern similar to the lacquered version, but the subdials are skeletonized, leaving only the surrounding scale rings, and the moon phase disc is covered with only a translucent cover, giving the moon motif a looming mystery. The openwork moon motif is made of rose gold, highlighting the nobility.
In addition, Vacheron Constantin has incorporated the Maltese cross shape into the skeleton design of the automatic disc, which echoes the shape of the lugs and bracelet, so that the watch as a whole shows the brand's unique watchmaking DNA from front to back.
Lange & Söhne
A unique perpetual calendar
A. Lange & Söhne's perpetual calendar watches, which were launched in 2001, have a very simple design, a clear display and a finely polished movement, which is unique to German watchmaking compared to many perpetual calendar models of high-end Swiss brands.
Lange & Söhne perpetual calendar movement.
In September 2023, A. Lange & Söhne launched the rare Lange 10,000 Calendar with a platinum case, a black alligator leather strap and a black dial, continuing its timeless and familiar design, which is in keeping with the rest of the Lange 1 collection.
The Lange 10,000 Calendar has a month ring scale on the periphery of the dial, the current month can be clearly displayed by the inverted triangle indicator in the direction of 6 o'clock, the day of the week and the large date display are located at 9 o'clock and 11 o'clock respectively, and there is a small window above the month ring indicator to show the leap year, and there are off-center hour and minute subdials on the right side of the dial, which completely present all the time information of the watch.
Extremely fine A. Lange & Söhne L0213 movements.
It is equipped with L021Caliber 3, 21-carat gold unidirectional rotor with untreated German silver base plate and bridge, visible through the transparent caseback, with Glashütte ribbing and fish scale finishes on the surface.
Equipped with blued steel screws, ** sockets, gooseneck fine-tuning, and hand-engraved patterns on the balance wheel support bridges, etc., the exterior decoration is fully reflected in the charm of German watchmaking.
Blancpain
Classic perpetual calendar
When it comes to perpetual calendar watches, what is the case without Blancpain, the master of calendars?
Although the 6656 1127 55b Perpetual Calendar watch has been around for more than five years, it is still the most cost-effective perpetual calendar model due to its unique design and perfect combination of aesthetic and functional practicality.
This Blancpain Classic Perpetual Calendar model, with its double-layered case, looks like two steps on its face. The perpetual calendar functions at 3, 9 and 12 o'clock, corresponding to the moon phase at 6 o'clock, bringing out the beauty of visual balance, and the hours, minutes and seconds are indicated by the ** hand.
18k gold 6656
The unique design of the face and moon phase is a unique aesthetic element of Blancpain, which is highly recognizable. Compared to other perpetual calendar watches, Blancpain's perpetual calendar has many human details, such as its functional adjustments.
K gold version 6656 lug adjustment.
Many brands of perpetual calendar adjustment may require a special functional adjustment needle to adjust it.
But Blancpain doesn't. Because it designed the adjustment button of the perpetual calendar behind the lugs, it not only perfectly hides the abruptness of the adjustment button, but also makes it very easy to adjust.
Of course, the more important reason lies in the ** of its conscience of heaven and earth. Priced at 260,000 RMB, you can hardly find a second choice other than Blancpain for a perpetual calendar watch with such a high-profile and beautiful design.
The perpetual calendar function not only reflects the superb watchmaking technology and exquisite craftsmanship, but also integrates aesthetic design and practical function, which has high collection value and ornamental value.
Representing the watchmakers' pursuit of perfection and unremitting exploration, which of these perpetual calendar models do you like best?