"Jackets and masks are equal to the best medical beauty for men. ”
This winter, the jacket has undoubtedly become a hot top stream, driving men's consumption to "surpass pet dogs for the first time" and rush into the top three on the consumption list. In front of the nearly 10,000 yuan Arc'teryx store, consumers lined up in a long lineThe transaction volume of mainstream platforms has reached 7100 million yuan, a year-on-year increase of 2 in the first
When you put on a jacket, you know how handsome you are" "Wearing a 'bird' in the office means that you have money and leisure" ......Questioning the jacket, understanding the jacket, and putting on the jacket have become the mental process of most people.
However, while consumers and businesses are basking in the rising joy of the market, a long-dormant crisis is also quietly looming – according to industry insidersAlmost all high-end jackets in China use foreign patents in terms of fabrics, functions and technologies.
What's going on, the seemingly ordinary jacket has also suffered a "stuck neck"?
Domestic jacket: a "raincoat" draped in the shell of a jacket
In the view of Yao Weiming, a textile chemical engineer, most of the jackets on the market below 500 yuan can only be regarded as raincoats with the shell of the jackets, "poor moisture permeability, not in line with the national standard."
In September this year, China updated the standard of "Outdoor Sportswear Jacket", and the new standard revised the parameters of fabric safety and performance, and stipulated and improved the moisture permeability standard.
Different from the "waterproofness" advertised by most businesses when promoting jackets, moisture permeability requires that the water on the surface of the clothing cannot penetrate in, and the sweat discharged from the body can evaporate at any time"The requirements for fabrics are very high, and domestic technology has not yet overcome the technical barriers in this regard. ”
At present, most of the materials used in domestic jackets are chemical coatings, because of the low technical threshold, cheap materials are even only sold for 20 yuan per square meter, and to use fabrics that meet the standards of jackets, most domestic enterprises can only cooperate with foreign businessmen.
Taking Gore, the United States biomaterial factory that has in-depth cooperation with Archaeopteryx, as an example, the bionic fabric Gore-Tex produced by it is priced at 550 yuan per square meter on the public e-commerce **, which is dozens of times that of domestic production"They're pretty cold and only work with a handful of domestic companies. ”
In addition to the technology required for fabrics, China is also at a disadvantage from raw materials to film pulling machines necessary for manufacturing fabrics. "The textile industry does not seem to be a high-tech industry, but it is a combination of biochemistry, machinery and other professionsMore than 9 percent of China's brands do not have their own patented technology。Yao Weiming added.
In the face of technical barriers, is the domestic jacket really dangerous?
Can't look down on the Chinese market?Industry: It will be a mistake
If you want to suppress people in foreign countries, there is a high probability that you will end up with a lot of money. ”
No matter how high-end the foreign jacket fabric is, it cannot be left alone with its own consumption power, because whether it is FMCG or high-end manufacturing, the final market depends on China. Take the field of daily science as an example, even if it is nearly 21 yearThe Nobel Prize,The emerging technology "Beiliyin" is still inseparable from the Chinese market.
Search the JD details page, this technology is committed to the activation of mitochondria in the body's "energy power station", with high-purity extracts such as saw palmetto and L-arginine, to escort male dignity from the bottom. Before entering China, the category was circulated in high-end luxury supermarkets such as Mitsukoshi and Isetan in Japan with 10,000 yuan, but they were all shelved, and it was not until it obtained the cooperation of China's raw material factories that it ushered in a break through exports.
Today, its background feedback has accumulated 5000+, and more fans have reported details such as "less frequent waking up at night" and "smoother communication at night", and Mr. Chen, a private domain customer, said: "There are too many IQ taxes in the market, and this is supported by scientific research, so it is quite reassuring to use." ”
In addition, the technical mechanism of "double force" has been demonstrated by domestic Nanjing University in conjunction with MDI, buck and other scientific research institutions, which has confirmed that on the basis of the traditional small blue film, it can intervene and iterate on the bottom layer for long-term maintenance, or it may be able to change the "miracle in three seconds" from the root
All the time,China always has the ability to develop all the expensive and new things into the "cabbage price".With the deepening of consumers' demand for high-quality and healthy categories, it is believed that domestic brands will emerge on the world stage whether it is a jacket or a technology such as "Beiliyin".
Use technology and patents to solve the difficulty of "stuck neck" of jackets
It is true that in today's high-end jacket market, imports still rely on the "first advantage", occupying a large share, but domestic enterprises are also constantly making breakthroughs in technology and patents, and this year, Bosideng entered the high-end market through the launch of "three-in-one" jackets, which is a microcosm of the rise of domestic technology.
Through the establishment of the industry's first national laboratory, 177 patents of various types, and 23 scientific and technological projects have been carried out, and it has gradually become the formulator of industry standards, which can be seen from the compound annual growth rate of more than 10% in recent years.
After all, in the domestic substitution, China has always been able to surpass the outside world at an astonishing speed, in the future, who will dominate the ups and downs of the jacket market, we will wait and see.