The original meaning of shabu shabu should be washing. "Guangyun": "Shabu, shabu washing." "Thin slices of meat are put in the pot and shabu, and "washing" is extended to "hot". The name of mutton shabu was at least existing in the Qing Dynasty. "Qing Barnyard Banknotes": "In the winter of Beijing, the restaurant sells and drinks, and there is a small kettle on the case, in which the fertile soup is blazing, and the meat slices of chicken, fish, sheep and pigs are plated. The customer throws himself into it, and eats ...... it when it is cookedAll things are cut raw and cut into silk as a piece, so it is called 'raw hot pot'. ”
Shabu shabu has existed since ancient times. Shabu should be made in hot pot. There are two theories about the origin of hot pot. One is believed to have originated in the Eastern Han Dynasty and is an unearthed cultural relic of the Eastern Han Dynasty. It was originally a kind of wine warmer, made of bronze, shaped like a cup, with a round belly and a small mouth with a beak and three legs. The volume of the bucket is larger than that of the cup used for warm wine, and some archaeologists believe that the bucket was used for shabu shabu in ancient times. Another theory is that it originated during the Northern and Southern Dynasties. "Northern History" said that at that time there was a people named "Fang", "cast copper as a vessel, with a large mouth and wide belly, and the name was copper planing." It's thin and light, making it easy to cook." Planing, that is, the stove. There is a sentence in the "Book of Songs" that "the stubborn stumbling is the hole of the hole, or burnt or burned". The copper plan, with a furnace mouth at the bottom, is closer to today's hot pot.
Han to Eastern Jin Dynasty bronze bucket, Nanjing Museum collectionDuring the Tang Dynasty, hot pot was made of pottery, also called "warm pot". Bai Juyi famously said: "Green ants make new wine, red clay small stove." If you want snow in the evening, you can drink a cup of nothing”
There are also simpler ones. Legend has it that when Emperor Kangxi visited Weifu in the area of Jilin today, a farmer invited him to dinner, only put a charcoal brazier, and put a copper spoon on the charcoal fire, and the spoon contained meat, mushrooms and cabbage. Kangxi ate very fragrantly, asked the host the name of the dish, and the host replied casually: charcoal hot pot. Kangxi never forgot because of this.
The earliest record of those who ate shabu shabu in the written records was Lin Hong's "Shanjia Qing Offering". Among them, Lin Hong has eaten shabu rabbit meat in Wuyi Mountain and Lin'an Mansion in Fujian. Lin Hong named this dish "Diaxia Offering":
To travel Wuyi six songs, visit the stop teacher, in case of snow, get a rabbit, no one can make it. Shi Yun: "Only thin batches are used in the mountains, and the wine sauce and pepper are fertile, and the seats are installed on the wind stove, and the water is less than half a cho. After waiting for a cup of soup, each one is divided into a spoon, so that it is sandwiched into the soup, and it is cooked and eaten, and the juice is offered as appropriate. "Because of its method, it is not only easy to do, but also has the joy of Tuan Luan's warmth. In the fifth or sixth year of Yue, when he came to Beijing, he saw this at Yang Yongzhai's banquet, and suddenly went to Wuyi as if he was in a lifetime. Yang Xun, who loves ancient learning and is hard-working, should be interested in this mountain family. Because of the poem: "The waves are clear and the river is snowy, and the wind turns the evening glow." Moyun: "Drunk and remembering the taste of the mountains, forget the distinguished guests." "Pigs and sheep can be.
Thinly cut the rabbit meat into slices, soak it in condiments, and set up a stove on the table to cook the soup. When the soup boils, each person uses chopsticks to pick up the meat slices into the soup, and then you can eat it when it is cooked left and right. Because the color of the meat slices blanched in the boiling soup is like the color of the glow, it is named "the offering of the xia".
Shanjia Qing Offering (Chinese Life Classic) is now the northern mutton, the original name is actually "Yeyi hot pot", which was introduced to the Central Plains with the entry of the Qing Dynasty. Manchu people keep out the cold, and they eat hot pot in winter. According to research, in the early Liao period, shabu hot pot was already popular. In the murals of the Liao Dynasty tombs unearthed in the Ao Han Banner of the Zhaowu Da League in Inner Mongolia, there are three Khitan people sitting on the ground around the hot pot, and some are using chopsticks to shake mutton in the pot. There is a square table in front of the hot pot with two plates for ingredients, two wine glasses, as well as a large wine bottle and an iron bucket full of mutton. The eating method of the Northeast Yeyi hot pot, according to the "Fengtian Tongzhi", the hot pot "takes tin as it, divides the upper and lower layers, is not as high as the ruler, takes the red copper as the fire cylinder, burns the charcoal, when the soup boils, boils all the dried meat, chicken, fish, and its taste is delicious." Winter home banquet guests often eat, more like to use it". "The rich have ginseng and tendons, accompanied by pigs, sheep, cows, fish, chickens, ducks, pheasants, shrimps, crab roe and other meats, or dumplings or hot pots, and the guests are also feasted. "It's not just lamb shabu.
Shabu shabu scene in a mural of the Liao Dynasty (facsimile).
Back then, Emperor Qianlong liked to eat hot pot the most, and he had to eat wild hot pot almost every day. Emperor Qianlong made six southern tours, because he liked to eat hot pot the most, and prepared hot pot for him everywhere he went. In the 49th year of Qianlong, the compilation of the "Siku Quanshu" was completed, and in the first month of the 50th year, a banquet of 1,000 people was held in the Qianqing Palace, and 3,000 people attended the banquet. In the 60th year of Qianlong, the harvest of all provinces reached 90 percent, and heavy snow fell in October, and Qianlong, who was over 80 years old in 61 years, held another 1,000 banquets in Ningshou Palace and Huangji Palace, and 5,000 people were seated. There were 800 banquets for the Qiansu banquet, 116 cast-iron pots alone, and 156 people were hired. There are two hot pots at each table at the Qiansuo banquet, including pork slices, mutton slices, and venison slices. In addition to the throne of the imperial table, there are first-class tables and second-class tables. The first-class table is for the princes, first- and second-class ministers and foreign envoys, and the second-class table is for the third-class to ninth**. The hot pot at the first-class table is made of silver and tin, and the second-class table is made of copper. For a banquet of 800 tables, 1,600 hot pots are needed.
The most famous shabu shabu restaurant in Beijing is Donglai Shun, and there is a saying that "where the shabu is tender, it is necessary to count the Donglai Shun". Donglaishun was founded in 1914, and the founder was called Ding Deshan (Haoziqing). Ding Ziqing has been setting up a stall in Dong'an Market since 1903, and at first he only sold cooked noodles and soba noodles and grilled cakes. In 1906, he built a shed called "Donglai Shun Porridge Stand", and added cornmeal stickers and rice porridge. In 1912, when the Beijing Mutiny and Ding Ziqing's porridge shed was burned, he begged relatives and friends to borrow money to build a few gray tile houses on the site of the original shed, and began to call it "Donglai Shun Mutton Restaurant". At that time, Zhengyanglou Restaurant was the most famous person who operated shabu mutton, and Ding Ziqing tried every means to dig up the meat cutter of Zhengyanglou with a high salary, and worked the raw materials. The sheep used for shabu shabu is the sheep of Jining, Inner Mongolia, which is the first to be castrated, and the ram weighing fifty or sixty catties is the best. This kind of mutton is red and white and tender, fat but not fat, thin but not firewood, commonly known as "Xikou big white sheep". After this kind of sheep is slaughtered, about a sheep only has about fifteen catties of meat that can be used for shabu. Ding Ziqing specially bought a few hundred acres of land outside Dongzhimen in Beijing, and after the sheep were bought, they were handed over to tenant farmers to raise. He is only responsible for the feed, and the sheep manure is used as a substitute for the work. In winter, the season of shabu-shabu has arrived, and the sheep have been fattened.
Dong Laishun, painted by Li Binsheng, ** from "Yanjing Painting Old Complete Edition".
After the sheep is slaughtered, it is chilled before being cut into thin slices by the master. The so-called cutting of meat is neither cutting nor sawing, but pulling back and forth with a crescent-shaped knife. Donglaishun's meat slicing master can cut out 40 to 50 pieces of meat six inches long and one and a half inches wide with a pound of meat, which are as thin as paper, even as crystals, as straight as a line, and as beautiful as flowers. After the lamb slices are cut into pieces, they are placed in a blue and white plate, and through the meat slices, the patterns on the plate can be faintly seen.
Eat shabu mutton with good seasonings. Donglaishun's seasonings include sesame paste, Shao wine, soy tofu, pickled leek flowers, chili oil, shrimp oil, rice vinegar, chopped green onions, minced coriander, etc. These seasonings are served in small bowls, so you can mix them to your liking. Donglaishun's shrimp oil is selected from the famous products of Hebei Nanbeibao, this kind of shrimp oil has a strong fragrance, and there is mushroom soup in the hot pot, and the two are combined with mutton, which has a special fragrant and umami taste. The sweet garlic of Donglaishun is also specially made. Every time the new garlic is on the market, they go to the countryside to select the kind of white-skinned six-clove garlic, buy it back and add sugar and osmanthus to refine it. By 1930, Donglaishun built a building, hired more than 140 people, and used more than 100,000 catties of mutton slices every year.
Beijingers love to eat hot pot in winter, in addition to shabu mutton, there are also "Yipin hot pot", "assorted hot pot", "white meat hot pot", "chrysanthemum hot pot" and so on. Yipin hot pot is a sauce elbow shop in Beijing, such as Tianfulou, Puyunlou and other time-honored brands that specialize in large pots in winter. It uses cooked white meat slices to cushion the bottom, and the specialty cooked food with the brand size, such as clear sauce meat, donkey meat, sauce elbow flower, sausage, small belly, large meatballs, smoked chicken, sauce duck, rabbit breast, are cut separately and placed in the hot pot. This is the "one-product hot pot". In the past, buyers had to pre-order, and the shop sent someone to bring the pot to their homes, and when eating, the soup in the pot was boiled with charcoal fire, and all kinds of fried, smoked, sauced, and marinated flavors were mixed together in the pot, and then some cabbage, vermicelli, and tofu were also dipped with seasonings.
The assorted hot pot is dominated by all kinds of seafood, such as shrimp, fish fillet, sea cucumber, dried scallops, and chicken slices (especially the pheasant slices). First, the soup is hung with ham, dried scallops, sea rice, and shiitake mushrooms, and then added with slices of winter bamboo shoots and cucumbers.
Buying fish, Li Binsheng painted white meat hot pot that is, white meat, this kind of hot pot is based on pork loin and the tip of the rump, first cook the meat, then slice, and then use the pig water as a match, such as belly, heart, large intestine, liver, lungs, also cooked and sliced in advance. Shabu can be served with vermicelli, cabbage, frozen tofu, and shredded kelp. The seasoning is made with soy sauce and minced garlic. In the old days, the most famous place to eat white meat hot pot in Beijing was "that restaurant" in Xidan Piku Hutong.
The hot pot used in chrysanthemum hot pot is different from ordinary hot pot. Spoon-shaped, with ears on both sides, for easy heat transfer without smoke. This hot pot uses alcohol instead of charcoal. In the copper pot, chicken and duck are used as soup, and the raw materials are fish fillets, chicken slices, magnolia slices, tenderloin slices, vermicelli, etc. After feeding, sprinkle with fresh white chrysanthemum petals, the fragrance is overflowing, and the freshness of the soup is not comparable to the mutton shabu. According to Deling's "Imperial Fragrance Ethereal Record", Cixi's favorite chrysanthemum hot pot used a white chrysanthemum called "snowball".
Hot pot in various places, in addition to these famous ones, there are also hairy belly hot pot in Sichuan. It is said that the original use of a mud stove and a compartment of foreign iron basin was originally used. A kind of spicy and numb brine is boiled in the foreign iron basin, the beef is cut and classified, and the diners identify one grid, put all kinds of water into the brine, and eat while cooking. Now the iron basin has been changed into a hot pot. Mao belly hot pot is mainly to eat tripe and offal, and the ingredients are pig, sheep, chicken, duck, fish, eel, water noodles, large fungus, Xuewang, fragrant mushrooms, big white mushrooms, and pea tips. To eat tripe, you must hold the heat steadily, and it will be hot in the pot, and it will not be chewed for a long time, and it will be raw if the time is short. Mao's belly hot pot uses coke for steelmaking as fuel, and the fire power is strong. Chongqing's authentic hairy belly is expected to be bloody. The seasonings include beef bone broth, refined butter, bean paste, chili noodles, Sichuan pepper noodles, minced ginger, tempeh, salt, soy sauce, sesame oil, pepper, and rock sugar. Sichuan cuisine is spicy and numb. If it is not spicy or numb, if a person has no bones, he will not be able to stand up. The chili pepper must be so spicy that "before it is imported, it has already caused people to fight a few cold wars". Good chili noodles must also be accompanied by Pixian bean paste. Eating hairy belly hot pot regardless of season, when Sichuan people sweat in summer, the electric fan blows and eats the same, hot and spicy, spicy out of a stinky sweat, said to be spicy and happy.
Eating hot pot, steaming, does have the meaning of Tuan Luan hot and warm, so on the night of Chinese New Year's Eve, in the wind howling, the home uses hot pot more. But back then, Yuan Mei and Yuan Zi were against hot pot. He said: "Winter banquets, accustomed to hot pot. The noisy guests are already disgusting. And the taste of each dish, there is a certain heat, Yiwen Yiwu, Yiwu Yiwu, Yiyu should be added, it is difficult to be bad in an instant, this case is forced by fire, and its taste can still be asked!Neighbors use shochu instead of charcoal to get a plan, but they don't know how much things roll, and they can always change their taste. Or ask: What can I do if the dish is cold?Said: With the hot dishes in the pot, the guests will not be eaten up, and they can still be left until they are cold, then the bad taste can be known. ”
Yuan Zicai objected to putting all kinds of dishes together. He believes that each dish must have its own heat, and that if the food is too much to boil, it will always change its taste. Someone asked, what should I do if the dish is cold?He said that if the guests do not finish the freshly cooked dishes and leave them there until they are cold, it means that the taste of the dishes is too bad. There is some truth in his words. But Yuan Mei ignored itHot pot brings all kinds of umami together, although it destroys the mellow, but it has its own combination, adjustment, and transformation. The beauty of hot pot is the beauty of combining various cuisines.
The above is an excerpt from "Test Eating", originally titled "Shabu Shabu").
A book to learn about the past and present of Chinese food culture
"Test Food".Zhu Wei eds., 9787101159202
49.00 yuan in the form of notes, this book researches and interprets the basic elements of Chinese food culture and the flavor of food in various places, and looks for the cultural traditions in Chinese food. On the premise of understanding a large number of literature, the author connects the contents of food, folk customs and a broader history of popular culture through careful citation, analysis and combing, which not only constitutes a rich intellectual background, but also loses a strong cultural interest. In terms of style, this book starts with the "kitchen god" worshiped by Chinese folk, then talks about basic dietary elements such as water, fire, oil, and salt, and then talks about flavored staple foods such as cakes, steamed buns, and noodles, and then talks about local cuisines, and finally ends with "Manchu and Han full banquets", thus constituting a self-contained "Chinese food history".
Rough-edged book] [Edited by Zhu Wei's signature book] test to eat.
Co-ordination: One North;Editor: Siqi).