2024 starts with tourism
The history of enjoying plum blossoms in the lonely mountain is very long, at least in the Tang Dynasty. More than 1,000 years ago, Bai Juyi, who served as the assassin of Hangzhou for three years, wrote the poem "The edge of Wugong Temple is like snow, and the lonely mountain garden is as beautiful as makeup" after leaving Hangzhou. What makes the old mayor unforgettable is the plum blossom in Hangzhou, is the wax plum included? I don't know. The ancients liked plum blossoms, and often planted wax plums together, and I guess that there should also be a shadow of wax plum in the lonely mountain garden at that time. It's just that the plum blossoms of the lonely mountain are more likely to be watched by people because of the legend of the Northern Song Dynasty Lin Kui's "plum wife and crane", relatively speaking, the wax plum earlier than the plum blossoms seems to be nameless.
Since last year, I have been paying attention to the wax plum in Shanggu Mountain. This year, as a special event in the middle of winter, I went to see the wax plum there three times in a row, and witnessed the process of wax plum from the first bloom of the bud to the blooming of the flower. For such a weak and timid pale yellow flower, I could have so much patience, which I never expected!
On New Year's Day, I came to Gushan Tanmei, although I didn't have much hope in my heart, knowing that the time was a little early, but I still couldn't help but want to come and explore. Zhongshan Park, in the Qing Dynasty, was once used as the palace of the two emperors of Kangqian to visit Hangzhou in the south. Tang Xi and Qianlong visited Hangzhou a total of 11 times, including 10 times in the Gushan Palace.
Zhongshan Park is the main part of the original Gushan Palace, and several wax plums are planted in it. Next to the stone steps of the "lonely mountain" of the Song people's Danshu, it is the stone pavilion of one article and one martial arts, the east is the Wen Pavilion, the west is the Wu Pavilion also called the Wu Tower, these two pavilions have only more than 80 years of history, and they are not the old buildings in the Lonely Mountain Palace, they are the first period to commemorate the donation of the Huayang Charity Relief Association to help the Zhejiang flood and build it.
On the east side of the stone pavilion, this one is the first to bloom. It may also be the earliest wax plum in Hangzhou. With a drunken and hazy look, only a few dozen branches opened, looking at me timidly in a chaotic state of early bloom. Elegant yellow, slightly revealing a light fragrance.
The morning light shook off the wax plum branches sparsely, and a few wax plum leaves, bright and dark, glowing with light, lined with climbing vines on the rock wall, green and yellow, yellow and green. When the wax plum first blooms, most of the branches still have many withered yellow leaves, and as the flowers bloom one by one, the leaves become more and more sparse until they are finished.
One or two bees began to scramble among the blooming plums. They are not in a hurry to shoot branches, but look around, compare and look for them, and it is not easy to take their "work photos" with their full attention. The bones of these blooming flowers are quite tall, and I have to stand on tiptoe a little to get a clear picture of them.
At this time, there are very few visitors in the old palace of Gushan, and most of them have not entered the park even if they have walked through the white causeway in the morning light and come to the Guanghua Fudan Stone Workshop in front of Zhongshan Park. No one will come to see a few lonely wax plums in the cold wind. No wonder the ancients called wax plum a cold guest, a rare guest who grew up in the middle of winter, and it was really not the right time to come!
Three weeks later, I came to the old palace again. At this time, the wax plums on both sides of the Wenwu Pavilion quietly opened, and they opened a lot. Although it is a cloudy day, the tender yellow wax plum blossoms, dotted with spots, dotted among the green trees, like gold dust sprinkled trees, very spontaneous oil painting feeling.
The silent ancient courtyard suddenly gushed out so many fresh yellow petals, and the cold stone pavilion seemed to add a lot of vitality. I repeatedly photographed the wax plum around the stone pavilion, whether it was the corner of the pavilion eaves or the top of the pointed Wu Pagoda, whether it was a glance at the white walls and tiles or the pavilion frame, I felt very amazing.
There are almost no yellow leaves left on the tree, and the bony branches are full of yellow flowers, which are particularly eye-catching against the green plants on the wall. The delicate wax plum blossoms are delicate and bright, they are silently open, and although there is no applause from visitors, they are still flourishing and radiant.
After a whole winter, I experienced severe frost and wind cold, as if I was all trying to enjoy myself at this moment! The plum petals trembled slightly in the cold wind, this is their shallow chanting and low singing, the color and fragrance in the middle of winter, only the lonely dancing shadow accompanied by wax plum and cold!
Unlike the last time, this time I clearly smelled a faint chime fragrance, curling Tingting, if thick and light, intermittent. Smelling the fragrance and knowing the flowers has always been an elegant thing. But the environment is very particular. If it is in the bustling crowd, it is very embarrassing to grab a seat, and tilt your neck to find a narrow world that belongs to you, even if it is the same aroma, it is greatly discounted.
The wax plum fragrance on the side of the stone pavilion seems to belong to me alone this morning, except for a few tourists who hurriedly finished shooting the word "lonely mountain" from here and went up the steps, there are no other flower admirers. I sat on the stone bench and drank hot water while looking up, or climbed the steps to look down on these wax plum trees from a high place, changing ways to communicate with them silently.
These wax plum trees, in fact, are not long, not to mention the dry branches are bent and vigorous, probably planted in the past ten years, the tree shape is thin and weak, as if it will die at any time. Usually when you come here in spring and summer, you don't feel their presence at all. I didn't expect that in the blooming season, it seemed to have trekked from the long river of years, reflecting the back of the history of the desolation.
Emperor Qianlong was very fond of the Gushan Palace, and personally named the "Eight Views of the Palace" such as the Sizhao Pavilion, the Bamboo Cool Place, the Green Cloud Path, the Kanbi Building, the Moon Spring, the Eagle Fragrance Garden, the Lingyao Pavilion, the Magnolia Pavilion, etc., and wrote poems one by one. I guess that there were magnolia and osmanthus flowers planted at that time, and if there were wax plums, there would be corresponding wax plum poems.
This small pond in front of the West Lake Tianxia Jingting Pavilion is the "Moon Storing Spring" in the old eight scenes, the water falls out in autumn and winter, the pool water is exhausted, and it is not very good-looking. There are two wax plums by the pool, one high and one short grow on the rock crevice, at this time also bloom one after another, a little gold is dotted in front of this ancient pavilion, it has a bad taste.
Qianlong once looked at the picture and wrote a poem to praise the wax plum: "Layuejiang Township is not lonely, and occasionally writes the wax petals into pictures." Before the flower, I asked the high idlers, and I also remembered that Kinmen offered the New Year". His old man is famous for his inscription and inscription poetry, if he is stationed here to see today's wax plum scene, he will definitely give another poem to praise.
In winter, enjoy the West Lake World Pavilion, what is indispensable is the wax plum flying pavilion map. I walked among the cracks of the rocks, looking at these two wax plums, one by one fine golden wax plum blossoms, like butterflies flying in front of the ancient pavilion, there is a unique flavor. Many times I didn't get the hope of taking pictures of the West Lake when the wax plum was in full bloom, and I finally got my wish.
The West Lake World Pavilion is famous. The name of the pavilion is taken from Su Shi's poem: "The West Lake is a beautiful scenery, and there are no fools and sages in visitors." The depth is as follows, who can know the whole --- which means that the West Lake is the beautiful scenery of the world, and the people who come here to play are not divided between ignorant and wise; The beauty of the West Lake can be seen everywhere, who can see it all completely and thoroughly?
The square pavilion with a single eaves and four corners has a railing around it, a stone table in the middle, a pool in front of it, and a cliff rock in the back. The couplet on the pillar "the water, water, mountains and mountains are bright and beautiful everywhere, sunny and rainy, and it is always curious and curious" is a pair of playful strange couplets, skillfully using overlapping words, reading and skipping can be formed into a couplet. I remember this being a place where tour groups used to take it. The tour guide's explanation of the history of the pavilion, the poetry couplet and the surrounding scenery is colorful.
At present, there are fewer tour groups here, probably because the traffic is not very convenient, and the car has to be parked on the far Beishan Road, and it is only a few local regular customers to come and watch. I looked through the check-in points in Hangzhou on Xiaohongshu and saw that some of the authors of Xiaohongshu had posted their works, and the footage of the wax plum pavilion was fresh and gratifying.
I surrounded the West Lake Tianxia Pavilion, carefully standing among the rugged stones, darkening the background, or the pavilion corners flying, or the odd couplet flowers, or clustering the pavilion name, the sunny and rainy West Lake, more curious taste and interest from time to time, the small wax plum adds to the beauty of this midwinter season.
The third time I came to Gushan, it was purely an accident. That day, I came to Beishan Street for a walk, walked to the edge of Xiling Bridge, and then temporarily turned into Zhongshan Park. It's so close to the last time, just a week, I made a reason for myself in my heart, there are other wax plums on the lonely mountain that I haven't seen yet, so I just pack up this year and enjoy it!
As usual, I came in from Zhongshan Park, I didn't stop too carefully, took a few more photos, and wanted to climb the steps up the mountain. At this time, an old comrade's voice came from beside him, and he said to ask, what is there to reward Gushan at this time? After talking with him for a few words, I learned that he was a retired old comrade who lived hundreds of miles away, got up early in the morning, took the high-speed rail to the subway and then took the lonely mountain, and saw that the plum blossoms were still early, there was nothing to see and shoot, and I was very disappointed.
Thinking of the poem "The depth is as you go, who can know the whole", I said don't you see the wax plum blossoms, this is one of the good themes of Layue West Lake! I didn't know that there was a good interest in being a teacher, so I took the initiative to be his guide. I first taught him to take pictures of the "classic camera position" of the three pavilions and one plum in Zhongshan Park, and then began to climb the mountain, explaining some of the history of Gushan as I walked. The old comrades usually don't care much about the history of the West Lake scenic spots, and they listen to it with relish.
After passing through the "Eight Views of the Imperial Palace", I came to the "Jingyi Academy". Jingyi Academy was founded in the Kangxi period of the Qing Dynasty and was founded and presided over by Zhao Shilin, who was the governor of Zhejiang at the time. Zhao Shilin did a lot of good things for the people of Hangzhou, and the academy he founded met twice a month, and together with other Confucian teachers, he personally taught the scholars. Later generations regarded the academy as the "Zhao Gong Ancestral Hall", and Zhu Ling, a fellow Yunnan villager of Zhejiang and Zhao Shilin, inscribed the five words "a lonely mountain and a cloud", hoping to be like Governor Zhao and do more good deeds.
After briefly telling the story of the origin of the academy, I found a few wax plum trees by the white wall of the academy and admired them with my old comrades. Here I have come to see the ginkgo biloba a few times in late autumn, the wax plum that grows on the mountainside, like a woman who grows in the deep boudoir, I also saw it for the first time, and my heart is naturally happy. Although these wax plum trees are very tall and bloom in the upper part of the high, the posture is not as beautiful as in the old palace.
I came to the crane pavilion. I told the old story of Lin Xiaomei's wife and crane. Some of the wax plums in front of the pavilion are inclined upwards to the ancient pavilion, and some are inclined downward to the Beili Lake, the customs are different, and several mandarin ducks inhabit in the cold water. The old comrades were very happy and enthusiastically filmed non-stop.
In front of the Lin Society, the wax plum near the water also opened in the wind. The old comrades immediately shared the wax plum blossoms they photographed with their old companions hundreds of miles away, and said that they were standing in front of the Forest Society Memorial Hall of the Plum Wife and Crane. I hurriedly corrected that this forest society was built to commemorate the Qing Dynasty Hangzhou Taishou Lin Qi, and many people often regard the forest society as a memorial to Lin Kui, who lived in seclusion in a lonely mountain. Lin Qi, the old mayor of Hangzhou, is a sage in the cause of education, has done a lot of good deeds, and deeply loves the respect of Hangzhou people.
While talking, a foreign tourist came, probably jogging in the morning by the West Lake, and also wanted to come to the forest to enjoy the plum blossoms. A little red stamens dotted the branches, still waiting for the spring breeze to call. The veteran comrade rushed forward very hospitablely, introduced to him the wax plum blossoms he had photographed along the way in the morning, and took photos with the foreign tourists he had just met. The red scarf on his chest was particularly beautiful.
After nearly an hour, the third wax plum viewing will be over. I said goodbye to the old comrades who had never known each other but traveled together. Today, I not only made up for the wax plum outside the palace, but also temporarily picked up a traveler who enjoyed the flowers.
Looking back, I came to Gushan three times to enjoy wax plum and cold guests, each with different scenery. Looking at the wax plum trees floating in the wind, you will smell the fragrance of flowers if you smell more. Everyone may be a wax plum on the branches, people come and go, obscure. When there are flower admirers approaching, it will also be like a quiet wax plum wafting out of the faint fragrance!