At the beginning, the function of clothing was to shelter the body from the cold, but with the development of society, clothing was gradually given other meanings, becoming a class embodiment that distinguishes three, six, nine and so on. In feudal society,The dress system has always been an important system for the king's administration, and different classes and occasions wear different costumes and cannot be transgressed. The Song Dynasty, as a highly developed dynasty in China's history in terms of economy and culture, also formed its own distinctive characteristics while following the clothing system of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties.
The political, economic and cultural prosperity of the Tang Dynasty was highly prosperous, and in the context of such a society, it formed a majestic, open and magnificent clothing characteristics, and the Song Dynasty was different from the strong force of the Tang DynastySimple and elegant, conservative and introverted.
Tang Dynasty costumes. Different from the open and magnificent and majestic costumes of the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Song Dynasty advocated simplicity and conciseness, conservative and restrained. Clothing is the product of the integration of various factors such as culture, economy, politics and military in a certain sense, and represented and symbolized the ideological concepts and social status of the time.
1. Politically: literati preferences affect aesthetic orientation
The establishment of the Song Dynasty was in the Song Dynasty Taizu Zhao KuangyinChenqiao mutinyIn order to prevent the emergence of the next Song Taizu, maintain the rule, and not repeat the mistakes of the past, the rulers of the Song Dynasty took measures to suppress the military generals and improve the social status and political treatment of the literatiSeparation of civil and military, unlike the Tang Dynasty, where the boundaries between civil and military affairs were unclear. Heavy literature and military suppressionIt became the basic governing policy of the rulers of the Song Dynasty.
Zhao Kuangyin, the founding emperor of the Song Dynasty, wrote on the oath tablet of the Taimiao: ".Thou shalt not kill a scholar or a man who writes or speaksDue to the family law of the ancestors, the imperial court's employment policy also began to favor literati, and emphasizing literature and suppressing military force has become a social trend of thought. Under the influence of the political orientation of the imperial court, the people have infinite longing and yearning for literati, and the image and status of literati in people's minds have been greatly improved."Everything is inferior, but reading is highIt is a true portrayal of the society at that time.
At the same time, the bureaucrats of the Song Dynasty also had extremely high aesthetic taste. They are not only professional bureaucrats elected by the imperial examination, but also poets, lyricists, and scholars, who have been nurtured by their parents since childhoodGood tasteThe unique style of the literati was also formed in the clothing, the elegant bearing, the warm conversation, and the profound knowledge of the literati, such a literati temperament fell on the clothing, and it formed an elegant and simple clothing style, not only the literati liked elegant and simple wear, but their preferences also affected the society at that time to a certain extentAesthetic orientation, in this case, plus the society of the time forLiterati classyearning, so that they unconsciously imitate the dress of literati, and clothing is no exception. EvenYue Fei, a famous anti-gold general, are all images of Confucian generals wearing scarves and round-necked robes. The influence of the literati can be seen.
Yue Fei (stills).
In suchShang Wen suppressed martial artsIn the social trend of thought, the men of the Song Dynasty, from the princes and nobles to the ordinary people, all imitated the elegant and simple clothing style of the literati, and the daily clothing was often biased towards the elegant and concise style, and they wore itDaoyi, craneWear a headscarf and show elegance.
2. Ideologically: the conservative simplicity brought by the retro trend
Since the Wei and Jin dynasties, the position of Confucian supremacy no longer exists. Until the Song Dynasty writers set off a retro trend, although this retro trend is just under the banner of ancient retro, Confucianism has been pulled back into people's sight, but the Confucianism of the Han and Tang dynasties has been unable to meet the needs of the rulers, soCheng Zhu LixueIt came into being, and as soon as it appeared, it was vigorously promoted by the monarchs of the Song Dynasty, "what is good at the top, and what must be followed by the bottom", so Cheng Zhu Lixue soon becameThe mainstream ideology of the Song Dynasty
Confucianism is still simple, Cheng Zhu Lixue has also inherited this, from Zhu Xi's proposal of "preserving heavenly principles, destroying people's desires" can be seen, when the Song Dynasty was advocating simplicity, and clothing culture is no exception. Under the guidance of the concept of science, the costumes of the Song Dynasty changed the costumes of the five dynasties of the Tang DynastyFlashy and gorgeousand bold and unrestrained, while advocating".Be simpleNo extravagance", forming a rustic style, presenting a conservative and rustic scene. This conservative and simple style of clothing can be clearly seen in Song Dynasty paintings depicting the life of the court at that time, such as "Picture of the Concubine's Bath" and "Picture of Half-idle Autumn Xing". In these paintings, court ladies and other figures mostly wear tight-sleeved narrow shirts and floor-length skirts, although there are shawls, belts and other decorations, but their colors are light and elegant, and the clothes are conservative and not strongTonal contrast, giving a conservative and rustic visual effect.
Southern Song Dynasty costumes (cultural relics).
Not only that, but the rulers of the Song Dynasty also practiced frugality and led by example. “At the beginning of the Song Dynasty, the crown decoration did not use pearls and jade, and the style of simplicity and frugality was stored”。Song Taizu not only "filial piety and frugality, natural quality, and no pretentiousness", but also let his relatives follow himPursue frugality。In order to cater to the preferences of the rulers of the Song Dynasty, the ministers also wrote to ask for frugality, in the second year of the reign of Emperor Yingzong of the Song Dynasty, Taichang Rite Academy, Li Yuzuo asked the court to serve not to diagnose the blame and extravagance, and asked for an edict to reform the system, "The sacrifice of the suburban temple, the pure quality, the ornament of the crown, all exist in the law, not extravagant, heavy and strange play." "It can be seen at that timeThe concept of simplicity has been deeply rooted in the hearts of the people
In the context of the rise of science, the fashion culture advocates simplicity and simplicity, which is a kind of inheritance of the "Analects" of "polite and polite, and then gentlemen". It also reflects the Confucian scholars' aesthetic pursuit of "the way of a gentleman, light but not tired, simple and literate, gentle and reasonable". The clothing culture of the Song Dynasty was deeply influenced by Cheng Zhu Lixue, his clothing is different from the magnificent and bold of the Tang Dynasty, but increasingly conservative and simple.
3. Militarily: the lack of integration under the geographical environment
Since ancient times,"Those who are not of my race will have different hearts."It's people's habitual thinking. However, since the Wei and Jin dynasties, ethnic integration has gradually become a general trend, from the Wei and Jin dynasties to the Five Dynasties, ethnic minority regimes continue to enter the Central Plains, they absorb the advanced culture of the Central Plains at the same time, but also have a profound impact on the Central Plains culture, wearing Hu clothes and ornaments has also become a social trend.
Wei Jin Hufu. The trend of ethnic integration was particularly prominent in the Li Tang DynastyThe Li Tang royal family itself has Xianbei blood, and the Tang Dynasty was prosperous and had a strong military force, so in terms of foreign exchanges, the Tang Dynasty has always adopted an open and inclusive attitude, and the ethnic policy has achieved remarkable success, and the ethnic relations are quite harmoniousNoble China, cheap Yi, DiUnder the national attitude, the trend of ethnic integration has been strengthened, and Hufu characteristics have also appeared in the clothing culture, such as the round neck of the round-necked robe that men like to wear in the Tang Dynasty is the characteristic of Hufu.
However, due to the Song Dynasty's concept of emphasizing literature and suppressing military force, the precautions against military generals were extremely deep and implementedThe soldiers will be separated, and the soldiers will not be specializedTherefore, although the army of the Song Dynasty was quite numerous, its combat effectiveness was not strong, and its deterrent power against the northern minority regimes such as Liao and Jin was far less than that of the Tang DynastyForeign wars have been repeatedly defeated, so the Song people faced a very severe external political and military pressure that the Tang Dynasty did not have.
During this period, different from the openness and inclusiveness of the Tang Dynasty's foreign ethnic policies, due to the weak military strength and strong external pressure, the Song Dynasty was increasingly discriminatory and exclusive to foreign cultures and foreign costumes. In this kindEthnic hatredIn the background, the nationalism of national integrity and patriotic feelings began to awaken and fallCostume cultureThe specific manifestation is the self-confident support for the national costumes and the opposition and boycott of the costumes of ethnic minorities. As a result, the clothing culture of this period continued to be retro, and the traditional cross-collared wide-sleeved robe began to returnThe sleeves of men's crewneck shirts also tend to be wider
Song-Jin Battle: The Shame of Jingkang.
Not only that, but the rulers of the Song Dynasty also issued edicts prohibiting their wearHu Fu Hu ornament。Song Renzong's edict in the eighth year of Qingli: It is forbidden for "Shishu to imitate the clothes of the Hu people, wrap them in turbans, wear green and green, and ride on saddles, and women are mostly dressed in patina, rabbit brown and the like." From civil and military officials to ordinary people, it is strictly forbidden to wear ethnic minority clothing, and violators are "judged to violate the imperial pen".
* The rejection of ethnic minority costumes by scholars and scholars shows how deep the contradiction was between the Han people, who were mainly in the Song Dynasty, and the ethnic minorities who were mainly Liao and Jin, and the pressure faced by the Song Dynasty forced its rulers to fail to do what the Tang Dynasty did."Compatible and receiving, Hu Han's familyIn this way, we can understand why the clothing culture of the Song Dynasty is a family of its own and is unwilling to integrate with the clothing culture of other ethnic minorities.
The Song Dynasty was politically stable, economically prosperous, and culturally developed, and the clothing culture was the embodiment of the unity of material culture and spiritual culture at that timeIt not only reflects the material needs of the Song people, but also reflects their life interests and spiritual pursuits. From the rise and fall of the clothing culture of the Song Dynasty, the changes reflected are also worth thinking about**.
1. The status of literati has been significantly improved
From the above we can know that the Song DynastyElegant and simpleThe formation of clothing culture is related to the aesthetics of the literati, and the aesthetics of the literati influenced the aesthetics of the society, reflecting the high status of the literati in the Song Dynasty.
Qingming Shanghe Tu: The prosperity of the Song Dynasty.
Chen Yinke once said:"Chinese culture was created in the era of the Zhao and Song dynasties". The emergence of this cultural prosperity is inseparable from the policy of the rulers of the Song Dynasty to suppress military attaches and promote the rule of literati. Although the imperial examination system appeared as early as the Sui and Tang dynasties and was gradually improved, it was subject to the existence of the gate lord clan, and its real role was still in the Song Dynasty. Song Dynasty SocietyThe economy is developedThe idea of emphasizing literature and suppressing military force was deeply rooted in the hearts of the people, and the substantial improvement of the status of the literati class began to be truly realized in the Song Dynasty. It was for this reason that the Song Dynasty accelerated the process of literati of the bureaucracy, and the literati class really became the upper stratum of society,"Everything is inferior, only reading is high"It's really become the mainstream of society.
As for the preferential treatment of literati, Song Taizu also wrote it into the oath tablet of the Taimiao, and the monarchs of the past dynasties were not allowed to violate its precepts, one of which was "not to kill scholars and doctors and people who wrote and said things". It can be seen that the status of literati in the Song Dynasty was respected.
2. Political orientation leads the trend
The popularity of social trends is not unrelated to political orientation. Such as the Tang Dynasty clothing cultureMagnificent atmosphere, floating and bold, because the upper echelons of the Tang Dynasty also liked extravagance, and the rulers of the Tang Dynasty did not explicitly prohibit it, and even took the lead in demonstrating, such asPrincess Anle of the Tang Dynasty made bird skirts, "New Tang Dynasty Book Five Elements Chronicles" recorded the magnificence of the hundred bird skirts: "In the shadow of the day and the middle, each is the same color, and the shape of a hundred birds", but at the same time, "The Ruling and the Wild" also recorded: After Princess Anle made a hundred bird feather skirts, the hundreds of officials and the people's homes followed suit, "The mountains and forests are strange and exotic, and the mountains and valleys are searched, and the floor is swept away." It can be seen that the cost of the bird skirt is high. But that's itExtravagant, his father Tang Zhongzong not only did not stop it, but also used the power of the king to facilitate Princess Anle.
The Legend of the Demon Cat: A gorgeous display of Tang Dynasty costumes.
The rulers of the Song Dynasty advocated frugality and issued edicts many timesLuxury is prohibitedFor example, the edict issued by Song Zhenzong in May of the first year of Dazhong Xiangfu stipulates: "From now on, except for the crown guard of honor, legal clothes and banquets, the rest of the foreign courts are forbidden to take advantage of the public opinion to serve the royal offering account and the royal family and the courtiers' homes to worship, and shall not use gold, money, and embroidery." In addition to stipulating that there should be no extravagance in clothing, there were also bans in other aspects, which were specifically required in the edict of Song Renzong in June of the fourth year of Tiansheng"The Jinqi, deer fetus, thorough-backed, and Zhengzheng made by Liangchuan are reduced by half of the offerings." It can be seen that the rulers of the Song Dynasty were disgusted and rejected by extravagance. Under such a political guidance, the costumes of the Song Dynasty changed from the extravagance and glamour of the previous dynasty to become elegant and simple.
As can be seen from the example above,To a certain extent, political orientation will lead to changes in social trends, the so-called good at the top, and the effect at the bottom must be for this reason.
To sum up, the clothing culture of the Song Dynasty changed from the magnificent atmosphere, extravagance and boldness of the previous dynasty, and turned into a simple and elegant, conservative and introverted, precisely because the clothing culture was at that timeSocio-political, economic, ideologicalThe product of integration, so the formation of clothing culture is related to the social background of the Song Dynasty, although the Song Dynasty was highly developed in culture and economy, but because of its weak military strength, it was reflected in the clothing, and its clothing becameRustic and conservativeIntroverted. And this kind of clothing culture also reflects the timeSocial changeIt provides an understanding of the changes in the clothing culture of the Song Dynasty, and also helps us to understand and analyze the social changes of the Song Dynasty.