When we talk about the spirit of freedom a century from now, how should the fashion world respond?
On these days of Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024, the entire fashion world is immersed in a laid-back, calm Italian atmosphere. The cold spring turns the day and night in Italy, and the clothing of pedestrians is disrupted, but the atmosphere is still leisurely, which is the state of life that belongs to the Apennine Peninsula.
With the daylight in Milan at noon, Ferragamo has temporarily taken over the city and the Fall/Winter 2024 collection arrives as scheduled.
This season's Ferragamo looks to the past, as always. Creative Director Maximilian D**is is fascinated by the style of the last century, but his approach is still contemporary.
The first four sets of looks belong to the same group of styling echelons, olive wool outerwear sets the color tone for the collection, and the combination of deep, restrained silhouette jackets and tonal jumpsuits doubles the visual perception, and the coherent wrapping points to the dressing side of next autumn and winter**.
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The same material of thick wool is then presented in chestnut brown, burgundy and black, continuing the concept of wrapping. The collar of the broad-shouldered coat is turned outwards or upright, creating an extra meaning outside of orthodoxy.
The silhouette of the workwear is softened by the fabric: a blend of wool and cashmere for a luxurious and comfortable feel; The leather has an unlined construction for a relaxed fit. Different fabrics are intricately blended throughout the season to create the look of your dreams.
This subtle meaning was soon revealed in the following looks. Two knitted dresses appear in a mirrored image, hip-length with towering leather boots, and the addition of tonal gloves to cover the whole body, while the V-neckline shows off the chest**. Confrontations over revealing bodies have arisen and will intensify.
The closed coat space is opened, the deep V-neckline see-through skirt is attached to the surface of the body, and the flowing gauze skirt material and heavy fabric form two completely different states. The collision of light and heavy textures actually points to two behavioral paths: ** and closed. This conflict confirms Creative Director Maximilian D**is's intention to invoke the style of the period, to recreate an undercurrent that took place in a specific scene in the 1920s.
In his show notes, he explained:
In the 1920s, people dressed to show their free will. The free-spiritedness of expression resonates with my experience and the essence of Ferragamo. ”
The twenties of the last century were a crazy decade that all creators could not get around. People identify that decade as the era of the roaring 20s and the origins of jazz. After the war, there was a comprehensive social and economic revival, and hedonism flourished. People are talking about literature and ideals again, praising ** and art, and fashion has also been inspired to be unbridled like never before, which is the era of freedom when both the mind and the body are lifted.
However, it was also the year when the infamous Prohibition was enacted and enforced in the United States.
In the 1920s, people were driven by their surroundings to create their own spaces through speakeasies. They hid their clothes the entire time until they reached safety. Maximilian D**is specifies the underlying logic of the season, hoping to summon back the souls of the old **, as well as the clothing moves triggered by specific situations, as well as the pleasures of confinement and the hidden **.
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Three-dimensional ruffles meet flowing fabrics, draped waistlines meet loose cuts, and the visual identity of the Liberation era is simplified and refined, reflecting the self-expression of the past and the present twenties. In the real world of escape confinement, in the field that allows freedom, singing and dancing are leveled.
The fashion house's sartorial craftsmanship is reflected in the structure and materials of evening wear. Layered hooks are like a curtain covering halterneck dresses; Shiny laminated leather pieces form the form of fish scales, which are assembled into soft yet resolute couture armor that protects body and mind.
In terms of tailoring, the sculptural lapels are surrealist, and the proportions are distorted to create a unique effect that resembles a shadow portrait.
"Protection" is an enduring theme in the changing times. Knee-high waterproof boots and leather jackets from the 1920s and fishermen's overalls are the inspiration for this season's looks, contrasting with the fluid, flowy draped fabric.
The blanket cloak, a classic in the Ferragamo archives, is now transformed into a protective wing.
For accessories, this season introduces the season's iconic Hug tote bag, crafted from grained leather with lightweight feathers and a reimagined Ferragamo monogram. The fiamma crossbody bag comes in a new size and color palette that fits this season's theme.
Ferragamo's craftsmanship is evident in the fact that up to 950 laminated leather sequins are placed by hand by artisans and take more than 19 hours to create a spectacular effect like mermaid scales.
In addition, the Fall/Winter collection also features a ** tote bag, with a soft shape and a Gancini lock, whose structure is taken from the flower lily, the symbol of Florence, the city where Ferragamo originated.
This season's shoes also reveal iconic symbols of the 1920s: satin heels with a sweet heart-shaped design; Stiletto heels elegantly embellished with T-shaped straps; Lace-up sandals recreate the archives with a new twist.
The new footwear is also gender-neutral, with traditional brogue detailing and buckle embellishments reimagined as muller flats with a "cigarette" heel.
It is true that Maximilian D**is a nostalgic person, but this does not mean indulging in the imagination of the old. "I've always been happy to peel back the threads. I'm passionate about tracing back to a long history, reinventing it to create a simple, modern piece. ”
Overturning the image of a fashion house in four fashion shows and establishing a distinctly recognizable aesthetic in the new world, Maximilian D**is is rewriting Ferragamo's contemporary narrative from his own experience.
Source: Provided by the brand, IC